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Unregistered
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Posts:2321
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| 03/15/2006 3:16 PM |
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oh and the baseboards i was talking about liking are the runtal ones from your website
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NRT.Rob
Registered Users
Posts:327
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| 03/15/2006 3:45 PM |
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I try not to troll the forums for work so I'd rather not post a sales pitch (though yes, I do post the link to our site, I know :D but I don't charge for the forum posts so it seems fair to me!). If you want to talk buisness, feel free to email me at rob@nrtradiant.com and we can discuss it offline.
-=Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC=-
www.NRTradiant.com |
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-=Northeast Radiant Technology=-
NRTradiant.com |
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Unregistered
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Posts:2321
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| 03/15/2006 4:28 PM |
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understood [)]
i hope this discussion will be of help to others as well
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Unregistered
Registered Users
Posts:2321
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| 08/15/2006 11:09 PM |
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NRT Rob, I know this is way late and after going through the pain of installing a sandwich floor than watching a contractor shoot staples into my pex three times with an hour I was about to scream. Anyway why couldnt one use a longer screw to attach the hardwood floor? MAn sheetrock seems like it would be so easy. In fact after getting tired of building my sandwich I left some areas to rout out instead. BIG MISTAKE do not try this way at all.
Lastly I wanted to ask you about your statement "If you're using a Trinity, try to keep your water temps down. Do a one-temp system and eliminate mixing, run it at condensing temps, you'll have a nice system"
What is a condensing temp and how or why would I add a mixing vlave to a system?
I was looking at a trinity but now I am looking at an Asian model called Quietside. They are about $400 cheaper with the same bells and whistle. My money is just about all gone building this home.
Is it worth paying extra for a boiler that modulates from 18K to 126K or one that goes from 45K to 126K? Do I lose energy savings by not being able to modulate from a lower temp load? Thanks
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NRT.Rob
Registered Users
Posts:327
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| 08/16/2006 11:07 AM |
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Yes, minimum modulation rate is important, lower is better. 45kBTUs is the max load on most average size homes out there! It's still better to cycle at 45kBTUs instead of, say, the 80k minimum most conventional boilers give you, but lower is better still.
For a mod/con, you want temps under 130 or so supply temp to start condensing. The lower you go, the more you condense, the more efficient you get.
And remember when you are looking at efficiencies that AFUE is not a very good estimate of heating savings, at least not as a straight efficiency estimate. Mod/cons in condensing mode blow conventional boilers away.
You would add a mixing valve if:
-you use a conventional boiler that must operate at high temp, and you are using low temp radiant
OR
-you are using any heat source that must supply more than one water temperature (not counting domestic). So a high temp baseboard and low temp radiant system would need a mixing valve for the radiant. I would generally recommend a motorized one with outdoor reset if one is needed. But then I'd generally recommend putting that money into a mod/con boiler and making sure the system is all low temp, skip the mixing, and let the boiler provide the temp you need directly while gaining that condensing efficiency.
-=Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC=-
www.NRTradiant.com |
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-=Northeast Radiant Technology=-
NRTradiant.com |
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