darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/16/2009 3:58 PM |
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Hi all,
I am so happy that we finally got rid of our old crappy propane furnace and replaced with climate master Tranquility 27 3 Ton unit. Drilled 2 well outside, my contractor will soon dig out the underground propane tank when the weather is nicer. My geothermal setup is now using the old propane water heater tank as a buffer storage tank feed by the furnace, then it feed to my Stiebel Eltron Tempra 29 Plus electric tankless water heater. We had to install add new circuit breaker panel for the tankless but it is fine. I haven't used the unit much yet, but I started the cooling and its awesome. I will find out how much electric bill will cost me since I'm all electric now, peco will give me discount rate for winter. I live in PA.
Any feedback or input will be welcome, I will post picture when I get home.
San
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Bergy Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:116
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| 06/16/2009 4:31 PM |
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San,
Get rid of the old propane water heater and replace it with an electric unit. Standby loss on the propane unit is about 7*/Hr. and about 1*/Hr. on the electric. You don't have to power the electric unit...It's just a buffer tank for the desuperheater.
Bergy
PS Post some pics!
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/16/2009 5:19 PM |
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| the old propane water heater is now the buffer tank for the desuperheater, and then it feed to the electric tankless. |
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DavidYon Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:53
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| 06/16/2009 9:09 PM |
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Right, but what Bergy is trying to say is that the propane tank makes a lousy buffer tank. The idea is that the buffer tank is meant to store the heat coming out of the DSH, but the propane tank leaks that heat seven times faster than an electric one will. So you aren't getting anywhere near the maximum efficiency from your DSH.
And electric water tanks are relatively cheap, especially since you don't even need to wire it in.
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geo fan Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:395
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| 06/16/2009 9:14 PM |
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| If the gas is off a can or 2 of expanding foam in the flue at the top and fire box at the bottom will help to |
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/16/2009 9:43 PM |
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| can you tell me where the leak is happening? |
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robinnc Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:195
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| 06/16/2009 9:55 PM |
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I'm I missing something.....why would you need to have an electric 'tankless' water heater also that feeds off of your propane hot water tank??
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/16/2009 10:00 PM |
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| I no longer use propane, its all disconnected, I use the propane hot water tank as the storage tank that feed to the tankless. |
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/16/2009 10:05 PM |
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| here is the setup |

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Bergy Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:116
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| 06/16/2009 10:25 PM |
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Posted By darknessplayboy on 06/16/2009 9:43 PM can you tell me where the leak is happening? Up the flue in the center of the water heater. Cooler air is being drawn in the bottom and exhausted out of the top with a LOT of heat from the tank.
One thing from your photo. You need to have the supply and return hoses between the unit and the pump pack insulated, otherwise they will sweat.
Bergy
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/16/2009 10:32 PM |
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| so all I have to do is somehow seal that center piece of the water heater and is good to go. Where is the pump pack you are talking about, the flow controller? you saying those those clear hose need to be insulated? |
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Bergy Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:116
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| 06/17/2009 7:58 AM |
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In the photo you can see two insulated lines coming through the wall and leading to the pump pack mounted on the wall.
You said the pipes were clear? What kind of pipe is it? As far as I know, the only flexable hose that should be used is a reinforced "radiator" type hose. If that is just a clear vinyl hose it might collapse. I would find out if this hose is recommended by the heat pump manufacturer. If not, have it replaced with the proper hose and insulate it.
Bergy
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/17/2009 8:20 AM |
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| I'm pretty sure the house is radiator type hose that came with the unit by climatemaster, we actually had the climatemaster person from the company worked on the unit little bit and everything looks good. so all i have to do is insulate the hose? |
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Bergy Registered Users
 Basic Member
 Posts:116
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| 06/17/2009 9:26 AM |
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Posted By darknessplayboy on 06/17/2009 8:20 AM I'm pretty sure the house is radiator type hose that came with the unit by climatemaster, we actually had the climatemaster person from the company worked on the unit little bit and everything looks good. so all i have to do is insulate the hose? Really? If it is the proper hose then insulate it. Why didn't your contractor do it?
Bergy
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joe.ami Registered Users
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1419
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| 06/17/2009 9:37 AM |
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DSH lines are generally insulated as well, but it is a nice looking install. Joe |
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Just a Mechanic; Geothermal; Savings Underfoot |
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/17/2009 10:24 AM |
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not sure why they didn't, but I'm going to insulate all the pipe and hose
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joe.ami Registered Users
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1419
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| 06/17/2009 11:06 AM |
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I should mention that, like Bergy, I'm not familiar with a clear hose recommended by Climatemaster or anyone. Perhaps someone is familiar with these and can clear it up? Or perhaps the hose is labled and you could tell us what it is. J
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Just a Mechanic; Geothermal; Savings Underfoot |
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darknessplayboy Registered Users
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 06/17/2009 11:11 AM |
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Its not a complete clear hose, I'm pretty sure its a reinforced radiator hose, it have line across the hose and its pretty thick. I'll go look at it when I get home.
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