|
|
You are not authorized to post a reply.
|
 Prev Next
|
| Author |
Messages |
|
wickid.r
Registered Users
Posts:4
 |
| 11/13/2001 12:11 AM |
|
| My home is built and am considering what type of siding to apply. Would like to use cedar bevel or cedar channel. Have heard of many different ways to apply. Would like to know which is best and economical. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ian ICF Builders
Registered Users
Posts:612
|
| 11/13/2001 7:23 AM |
|
| What brand of ICF did you use? This impacts the method you use to install the siding. |
|
|
|
|
wickid.r
Registered Users
Posts:4
|
| 11/13/2001 9:41 AM |
|
| I used the ARXX system. The walls came out very well. I have heard to either fur out to install, or screw all siding to the plastic. Does anybody have any experience with either of these methods? Or is there a better way? |
|
|
|
|
Ian ICF Builders
Registered Users
Posts:612
|
| 11/13/2001 6:37 PM |
|
| For peace of mind, I recommend screwing a 1x to the ties (vertically of course) and around all openings and at all corners etc. Attach a 1x across the bottom of the siding also. Use Enerfoam or Windlock foam along with the screws if you want. The space created by the thickness of the 1x can be filled with foam board or can be left empty depending on your wishes. Then attach siding with nailgun etc. I know this requires more time and steps, but if it were my house that is how I would do it. |
|
|
|
|
wickid.r
Registered Users
Posts:4
|
| 11/13/2001 8:47 PM |
|
| Ian, My siders don't think that 3/4 inch is enough to get a good enough bite into and insist on screwing everything. I too wondered if you used a ring shank nail into furring if that would be o.k.. The problem with screwing everything (if you want to call it that ) is that it seems like an awful lot of labor not to mention the cost of the screws. They seem to think that screwing the bevel at 16" intervals with a stainless or galvanized screw is the best wat to go. Me, I'm not convinced, as that is alot of screws that will be seen. This is why I started to consider channel but they say it will need to be furred out and that too will need to be screwed with screw heads showing. Thanks for any ideas on this subject. Robb |
|
|
|
|
Rick Hansen
Registered Users
Posts:22
|
| 11/21/2001 7:32 PM |
|
Irregardless of brand of ICF used there are recommendatins on applying siding to EPS.
Conventional siding or sidewall treatment is best accomplished by using wood or metal furring strips. The use of furring strips on exterior walls serves two functions:
1) It creates an air space which permits air to circulate thus preventing a buildup of moisture which is critical when wood siding is used. In fact, most manufacturers of wood siding now redommend that an air space be left behiind the siding.
2) It permits aluminum and vinyl siding to expand and contract easiliy.
For the full text of the following excerpt please reference the October 1996 Journal of Light Construction.
"Siding applied directly over rigid insulation sheathing has a history of failures.
the consensus seems to be that rigid-foam sheathing is so impermeable that moisture absorbed by the siding (from direct rainfall or "splash back" at horizontal surfaces) cannot be buffered by temporary absorption in the underlying wood framing elements. The rigid insulation also prevents the wall framing from absorbing any of the heat generated by exposure to direct sun.
Depending on the action of the rain, sun, and temperature, the siding cups as moisture is driven back and forth through the siding. In this case, the peeling of the latex stain indicates that a solid-color stain was used. The surface film of stain lifts off the siding when underlying moisture tries to escape by migrating through the surface of the siding.
Inward cuppiing results when the interior surface of the siding is drier than the exterior surface, and the back of any siding exposed to direct sun will often be "baked dry" when the foam sheathing blocks heat transfer to the underlying framing. The siding should be installed over furring strips, creating what is called a "rain screen" cladding system. The resulting air space allows both heat and moisture to dissipate.
This buffering effect can be increased by venting the air space at top and bottom."
The ICF industry does a disservice to homeowners by suggesting they attach directly to the plastic/metal strips in the icf. Not only paint/stain, but also the siding, will last several times longer if furring strips are used.
|
|
|
|
|
|
| You are not authorized to post a reply. |
|
|
|
ActiveForums 3.6
|
Professionals Serving
Your Location:
GBT Project Albums:
|