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Rick Hansen
Registered Users
Posts:22
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| 11/21/2001 8:46 PM |
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Time and money saving tips and techniques are helpful to all. I have a few, and hope to hear about many more.
1) To keep concrete out of depressions or grooves in top of the block when pouring, and planning to stack more block above, try this. Stretch shrink wrap over the top, drop your rebar through it, and slice it down the center just as you pour => clean edges to stack on. COSTCO has a 16" wide roll x two jobs long for under $15.
2) Use the same shrink wrap to keep other unwanted items out of the wall.
Especially SNOW.
3) Use Olylog screws for everything. They come in various lengths, and the 12" works perfect with two 2x's and our 9 1/2" Reddi-Form. Used in the sip iindustry and in the log home industry, they should not be too hard to find at about $.75 each. Try them on bulkheads, blockouts and stepdowns where you need to secure wood to wood. We keep a few for emergencies - yes I did have one blowout this year, did you? A 2x on each side connected by a couple of Olylog screws is super fast and super easy fix. The fastest brace in the West is a 2x on each side with 2 or 3 Olylog screws connecting them. What could be less costly and as readily available?
These screws need no pilot hole and they grab so strong I think you could crush an icf wall with them. A real PLUS is they are removable and reusable.
4) Do you work in the North country where there is snow, or rain turning to ice, all winter? Keep it out of the grooves and depressions on the top of the blocks so there is no scraping and digging the next morning before you can start stacking again. Use ethlyne glycol (antifreeze) in a mixture similar to your windshield washer fluid. We mix it a bit stronger.
Email me if you are in a hurry and need more details since I don't get on the net so very often. When I do I look forward to reading your tips. Thanks
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markross
Registered Users
Posts:1035
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| 11/21/2001 11:28 PM |
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Heres a better trick.
1. Pour the walls without taping or covering the top, after six to twelve hours from the end of the pour, simply take a 1x4 and lightly tamp the top of the form to loosen the concrete. Left for more than a day or two though and it sets up too tough to remove. At the same time, simply use a 2x4 like a dry erase marker to clean excess surface concrete off the forms.
2. Instead of using 12" screws, simply construct and brace formwork as per the manufacturers guidlines. Use concret slumps which do not subject the forms to undue pressure, even with the use of a vibrator.
As for the screws with the through wall bucking... What happens when the screws are cast into the concrete, should we be snapping them off at the surface.
I totally and whole heartedly agree with the shrinkwrap and screws for various applications with ICF. There are a lot of tips and tricks out there, and I recommend that people using reddi form Take Rick Hansens advice. I have learned that different forms have tips associated with each. Learn from ther skilled installers of each block type.
Mark Ross
"Le Canuck" |
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