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badchad
Registered Users
Posts:66
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| 12/03/2001 11:03 PM |
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I've read about several techniques for bucking. I was quoted 7.50 per foot on V-Buck to include $3.00 per corner ending up at around $3200.00 for my buck material. I would like to do something else with part of that money.
My question are:
1. What exactly am I trying to accomplish with the bucks short of holding the form of the windows or doors.
2. Can concrete additives help limit moisture absorbtion?
It seems to me that as a builder/owner that V-Buck is a nice product but I would just as soon spend time ripping and nailing burning a bit of time rather then spending that kind of money.
Sort of the sad thing about it is I see myself moving back to convention materials (wood) due to pricing (even with the volatile wood market) for my ICF home.
Chad Newman
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Oglesby Construction
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 12/09/2001 12:30 PM |
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Chad:
I'm currently specializing in ICF construction in Oregon. Of the houses that I have built I've used wood bucks for most because of cost. However, because of the quality, ways they wrap the opening and ease, I am starting to spec out vinyl type bucks for all windows and doors. Mainly because they don't warp and they wrap the opening with less chance for air and water infiltration. I'm starting to look at the big picture and want to give my customers the best built home for their money. I look at an average cost home and see that most customers upgrade for items that they see not necessarily for those they don't. Education is the key. Customers don't hesitate to spend 10% more for cabinets, tile or special treatments. This is why ICF's are hard to sell to most customers because they can't see a difference from the outside and why should they spend 5-10% more for the same house. Once they've been in one with wind outside or extreme cold or heat they realize they've made the best investment. I try and not sell ICF construction on its energy savings alone, especially in Western Oregon because of our mild temperatures, but rather on overall comfort, quietness, and a sense of security. As with anything, when ICF's/concrete become the norm for building homes, tools and accessories will come down in price. This and education is the only reason that ICF's at present cost more than stick frame built homes. My next house other than the roof and floor system will not have any wood in it at all. I'm thinking about even getting rid of the wood in the floor system. May have got off the original subject here but always like to discuss ICF's and the tools of the trade.
Thanks
Oglesby Construction
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badchad
Registered Users
Posts:66
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| 12/10/2001 11:20 PM |
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I really appreciate the input and do agree with you in some areas. As a builder/owner who has the option to choose between that whirlpool tub to keep his wife happy or use vinyl bucking  , I'll have to take the wood bucks. I have been reading about different techniques other then dimensional pressure treated lumber (such as foamed in tar papered plywood 1 1/2 thick ΐ strips]). Though this type of bucking is depentent upon the price of lumber, a table saw, and time. It comes down to the bottom line. As far as education, as a first time ICF builder, I have been goobling up information and techniques and tried to figure if someone's opinion would apply.
Of course any frame builder can come along and say that I can build it for less, but at what cost and time line.
I was pretty excited as I came across pricing for different material. Steel studs for the interior walls. The cost of the ICFs, cost of concrete etc., made me very happy looking at dollar figures and then the big snafu - vinyl bucking and spray on coatings, ouch the price of these hurt!
Once again thank you for your input.
Chad Newman
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jengland
Registered Users
Posts:13
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| 12/16/2001 7:15 PM |
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Chad
We faced the same predicament when we poured our upstairs walls in September. I had used some V-Buck in our basement as an experiment and liked it very well but did not like the cost. I knew PT would be a pain due to warping and I looked at all options (including some great ideas gleaned from this board). After much deliberation we went with PT and am pleased with our results. A few tips on using PT, We went to the lumber yard and hand picked 2x10s. If you call for it to be sent out you had better order 2 or 3 times what you need. Put the temporary 2x4 flanges on them as soon as you can as well as the inside braces. Leave these on as long as possible after the pour or at least until the PT has dried throughly. Drive screws into the back of the bucks and leave the heads sticking out into the concrete space as anchors. (We forgot this step and spent considerable time driving tap-cons through the bucks into the concrete). these will also help prevent cupping. I hope this will be of help to you, good luck.
John England
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markross
Registered Users
Posts:1035
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| 12/16/2001 9:31 PM |
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Simply Put.
Insert either 2x6 material inside the forms, to allow the foam panels to extend to the windows, or substitute the 2x6 wood material for ripped ICF panels to eliminate the wood altogether, very cost effect and esthetic too.
Mark Ross
"Le Canuck" |
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