ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:638
 |
| 10/06/2009 10:50 AM |
|
| I am looking into eliminating the sill on top of the ICF wall and connect the roof trusses directly to the concrete. Embedding something like the Simpson Strong-Tie META or a pair of them look like the best option.
What have you-all done? |
|
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
|
|
|
|
wes
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:637
|
| 10/06/2009 12:08 PM |
|
Brad,
I have not done as you suggest, but I see no reason that it would not work with a proper connection. Just a word of caution, if you are using wood trusses, make sure to provide a capillary break between the trusses and the concrete to prevent moisture problems later on. |
|
Wes Shelby
Design Systems Group
Murray KY
wandr@ainweb.net |
|
|
ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:638
|
| 10/06/2009 12:31 PM |
|
| They have steel plates, some of them embed themselves further increasing the strength. It is probably worth the extra dollar and would serve as a moisture protector. But would moisture really make it to the top of the wall? |
|
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
|
|
tdbuilder
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:63
|
| 10/06/2009 8:00 PM |
|
| I will typically float the concrete off an 1 1/2" below the top of the forms so my treated plate sits inside the forms. This makes the treated plate and the forms flush. |
|
|
|
|
ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:638
|
| 10/06/2009 8:12 PM |
|
td,
I used to do that but had problem getting green treated to all the same elevation. I like the idea of the energy efficiency of it, but it just wasn't worth the trouble.
I want to skip the sill to; make a stronger connection and keep it energy efficient. I figured I would use 12" pieces of 2x4 with the embed anchors temporarily attached and set them instead of anchor bolts. I would use a laser to get them at the right elevation and not worry about making the top of the wall pretty. |
|
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
|
|
smartwall
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:129
|
| 10/07/2009 7:00 AM |
|
| I use Icf-Connect half the price of Simpson. |
|
|
|
|
ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:638
|
| 10/07/2009 7:14 AM |
|
Smartwall,
You use ICF-Connect for roof truss connection? The Simpson META is only about $1, so it is only $1-$3 per roof truss. |
|
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
|
|
smartwall
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:129
|
| 10/07/2009 7:56 AM |
|
| I was comparing it to the icfvl and the fact that it does two jobs . |
|
|
|
|
ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:638
|
| 10/07/2009 8:04 AM |
|
| For floors the Simpson is less expensive because you need fewer, usually 1/3 as many. For roof trusses I question if the strapping plate of the ICF-Connect will reach over most energy wall trusses. |
|
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
|
|
smartwall
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:129
|
| 10/07/2009 8:18 AM |
|
| But you are not factoring in the cost of eliminating the rim joist and the labor and cost of the joist hangers. I did not know of the Simpson Meta bracket. If this does the same job why ask the question? |
|
|
|
|
ICFconstruction
Registered Users
Advanced Member
Posts:638
|
| 10/07/2009 8:25 AM |
|
The ICF connect does not work for us for floor connection. We have to have the framer do the layout and ICF connect get in the way of the bracing.
For the roof trusses, I would like to know more. Have you used them for the roof trusses? How much is a set? Do you know the uplift and lateral limits? |
|
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
|
|
tesla-was-right
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:30
|
| 10/07/2009 9:56 AM |
|
| back in my day I use to take a treated 2x4 cut the width of the wall inner thickness. I set these at the elevation required and attached with winlocks. I then set a mud sill strap anchor next to each one. (Simpson HETA)
These can be as long as you wish to attach alongside the truss and go over the top as well.
I would predrill screws into the 2x4 so there would be grip to the fresh concrete although that is probably overkill. The 2x4 provide a level place to set the truss and it can be adjusted horizontally and then tacked in place. The strap provides primary attachment and uplift resistance.
Yes, we had lasers back then. |
|
|
|
|
mike morrison
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:6
|
| 10/07/2009 9:45 PM |
|
| we like to use simpson LTA1 twice the up lift loads of A H1 orH2 for 1.50 to2.00 dallers when ever you can get away from thermal brigding its worth looking at |
|
|
|
|
dwangle
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:53
|
| 10/11/2009 10:00 AM |
|
| You can use either ICF connects or Simpsons. I usually recommend that for ICF houses. You can get that strong connection right to the concrete. That's my two cents worth. |
|
ICF for life |
|
|