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ICF501
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Posts:109
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| 10/13/2000 1:10 AM |
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Well I guess I have not quite figured out how to use this forum yet as my messages seem not to be posting.
I would like to thank Steve Andrews for his excellent work with this website. You and your co-patriots are doing a great job distributing SIP infomation and attracting very intelligent responses from other SIP professionals. Keep up the good work!!!!
There is a simple formula that all businesses follow that goes something like this. Value = Cost+ Benefits.
When comparing costs to other types of construction, you must weigh all aspects.
The plus side of SIPS:
1. Speed of construction (Labor).
2. Quality of structure (double sheared monolithic structure, lack of callbacks due to warped lumber, fewer pieces.
3. Enviromental concern (energy consumption, resource utilization)
I agree with the other posters to this subject that SIPS cannot fairly be compared to stick framing as they are not the same thing. SIP structures clearly outperform stick frames, whether lumber or steel. Major builders do use SIPS due to one major reason, "If it ain't broke don't fix it" The construction industry is hard enough, Why learn something new?? I can build with sticks and sell my homes just fine. If I have to learn another building system, it will cost me time and money to learn all over again what I am already doing.
I think this attitude is the major culprit in SIPs not being more mainstream than they are. I also believe that builders and architects that do not take the time to learn about a system that is better, will have to play catch up in the near future.
I call SIPS a "two hour learnig curve" for both architects and builders.
The best way to cut costs using sips begins with education and proper planning.
1. Start with an educated approach to building design. An architect with SIP knowledge will make the fabrcation process a breeze. Fabrication of a SIP designed project is much easier than a stick frame conversion. Bearing points fall on panel joints and panel falloff is utilized for other portions of the structure such as gable panels, headers, etc. This is no way means that a structure is limited in design, It is just a smart design..
2. Carpenters should have a hot melt tool, a good chain saw, perhaps a prazzi or some other guide, and should be able to jig up for production cutting in the field. There often are changes in the field that require these tools, and they will make working with large panels easy.
Think the whole layout through, just as a lay-out man does in track work. Pre-cut your lumber infill and have it on hand as your fit the panels, or better yet, use a completly pre-fabricated panel package.
Our crew this summer erected wall panels for a 3600 ft/2 home in two days. Actual panel installation was 9 1/2 hours. The crew consisted of two college kids, a journeyman carpenter and myself. The panels were prefabricated with plates numbered and nailed and drilled for electrical. Roof panels went up in17 hours using a crane. We ganged panels together and lifted roof sections of 3-6 panels depending on reach ability and degree of difficulty. Hips were started at common/jack point and were worked in both directions. Often these were handeld in single panel lifts.
A study on construction labor statedf that 75% of labor on a jobsite was equated to moving material. With panels this can be difficult. Offload your panels in as close to a construction sequence as possible. Use shop drawings and double check actual dimensions with shop dimensions. If you start off on the right foot, trust the drawings and go.
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