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1tightwadUser is Offline
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Posts:13




09/04/2007 8:20 AM  
Are all steel sips quoted with the walls and the roof? I am looking at 2400+sf and a steel sips roof would be over 35% of the total cost.
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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Posts:807





09/04/2007 8:31 AM  
1tightwad;


we have done roofs only over ICFs and conventional framing,

If you have a plan we would be happy to quote

Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS
1tightwadUser is Offline
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Posts:13




09/04/2007 7:26 PM  
If I am using metal sips walls, with steel for the joists, trusses, and interior walls, am I better off to use a conventional roof (OSB or plywood) material over the trusses. Then use sprayed in insualtion in the ceiling (R-24 to R-40)? I am planning on using Decra steel shingles as the finish roofing.
Thanks,
1tightwad
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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09/04/2007 8:24 PM  
I prefer plywood but many builders use OSB

Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS
PanelCraftersUser is Offline
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Posts:1323





09/04/2007 8:48 PM  
Posted By 1tightwad on 09/04/2007 7:26 PM
If I am using metal sips walls, with steel for the joists, trusses, and interior walls, am I better off to use a conventional roof (OSB or plywood) material over the trusses. Then use sprayed in insualtion in the ceiling (R-24 to R-40)?

TW,
Are your ceilings vaulted(scissor trusses)? And, if you will have attic space, is it conditioned?

If you answered No to both questions, I wouldn't recommend spray foam. Traditional products will work just fine and save you $$$.

....jc
If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building?
1tightwadUser is Offline
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Posts:13




09/04/2007 10:18 PM  
The current plan calls for 10' ceilings (flat, not vaulted) in all main floor rooms (1 story w/walk-out) with The attic plans (if metal sips roof is used), called to be sealed with ductwork to exchange air in the attic to the basement.

If I go to spray in insulation, I would insulate above the ceiling drywall, and have ambient air attic --- of course, without a metal sips roof. The 6 - 12 pitch, gabled roof, uses more sq ftge of panels than the walls.

I want it to be efficient, strong, and not excessive in cost. I realize I will be spending more than normal, I just don't want to go overboard.

Thanks for the feedback. 1tightwad
tmsuUser is Offline
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Posts:43




09/05/2007 11:21 AM  
Posted By jmagill on 08/28/2007 8:58 AM
"People are not put out when they purchase a car and the factory does not deal direct with them.

Panel Dealers offer the expertise of installation and experience that the factory does not have."

I was interested in these panels. My problem as a home owner is "information" I have looked high and low and can not find the information that I want to know and study. Connection details, wiring and plumbing details, etc.

All other SIP and ICF products have the informayion readily available on the web. I live in a home that we had built with OSB SIPS. I was able to do all the research I wanted before I decided on a product.

I am about to build a new home and the information I want and need is just not there with the SIPBloc product.
jmagill,
A couple of questions for you.  Have you had any problems with the OSB panels?  If yes, where and what caused them (if you know).  Have you had to fix them?  How?  I ask because I just got finished completing a SIP home using OSB.  The panels seemed to be very well constructed and they were right on spec.  It is a (2) story home with floor trusses sitting on the top plates (versus hung from the walls).  I also used a traditional roof truss system and screwed my 8.5" SIP panels to make the roof.  I then conditioned the attic space.  I appreciate any information I should have to maintenance my home appropriately.



jmagillUser is Offline
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Posts:91




09/05/2007 12:23 PM  
"jmagill,
A couple of questions for you.  Have you had any problems with the OSB panels?  If yes, where and what caused them (if you know).  Have you had to fix them?  How?  I ask because I just got finished completing a SIP home using OSB.  The panels seemed to be very well constructed and they were right on spec.  It is a (2) story home with floor trusses sitting on the top plates (versus hung from the walls).  I also used a traditional roof truss system and screwed my 8.5" SIP panels to make the roof.  I then conditioned the attic space.  I appreciate any information I should have to maintenance my home appropriately."

I have no problems with OSB SIPs. They are great. I am looking at all the options.

For our next home the ideal "SIP" or "ICF" product would be something that does not need a finish coating applied to keep out weather or meet fire codes.

We will be doing all interior work and finishing ourselves(as we did with this home) and would love to have a product that  would have us dried in with no need rush to apply exterior or interior finishes.

My perfect product would be Thermomass panels, no need for a quick finish and thermal mass, I just can not find someone who does it in our area.

Steel SIPs are an intriging option but I don't like the need to fur to wire and add sheet rock.


We will most likely use OSB SIPs for our roof but we really want a wall with more mass. This home will be our last and will be energy efficient and solar.
1tightwadUser is Offline
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Posts:13




09/05/2007 12:55 PM  
Is it possible to use the steel sided sips for the walls and then to use the same type of steel panels for the ceiling. These could be attached to the bottom of the truss chords. If this has been done before, where is the thermal break so I wouldn't have steel to steel that had outside temps.

If this is possible, this would give the "box" of the house as a much smaller volumn that has conditioned air space and then the attic space would not have to be conditioned air space. The ceiling panels would be about 55% of the area of the roof. That would also eliminate having to have a sealed area over an 8 x 32 porch where the trusses go out to the porch columns.

Appreciating any comments, 1TW
tmsuUser is Offline
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Posts:43




09/06/2007 8:46 AM  
Thanks for the feedback.  I am not a builder /carpenter but really enjoyed putting this thing together.  I want one of my nearby friends to build so I can do it again.  I am thinking it would be more fun as I wouldn't have the stress or $ involved.
k_radanovichUser is Offline
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Posts:9




09/06/2007 2:26 PM  
I'm new to this website. I have been a builder for twenty+ years and am a new SIPs distributor in So. Cal. I chose to rep. R-Control because they have a borate addative that keeps bugs from nesting in the OSB and foam. Also I have found they have the best network of distributors that are very respectful of other's territory and very helpful to the new guy who wants to learn. Anyway the issue with OSB is just like any other wood or steel product. If you do not weather-proof it properly it will eventually fail ,period. Sips have stood up through 7.2 earthquakes in 1995 in Kobe Japan right next to conventional houses that folded like a deck of cards. So they have been "put to the test". It is engineering 101 Torsion Box Construction. OSB or no OSB sound building practices are the key.
KR
www.greenwall.us
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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Posts:807





09/06/2007 3:21 PM  
k_radanovich


Does you OSB have borate in it too?

Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS
mcinfantryUser is Offline
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Posts:9




11/16/2007 12:43 AM  
Posted By 1tightwad on 09/05/2007 12:55 PM
Is it possible to use the steel sided sips for the walls and then to use the same type of steel panels for the ceiling. These could be attached to the bottom of the truss chords. If this has been done before, where is the thermal break so I wouldn't have steel to steel that had outside temps.

If this is possible, this would give the "box" of the house as a much smaller volumn that has conditioned air space and then the attic space would not have to be conditioned air space. The ceiling panels would be about 55% of the area of the roof. That would also eliminate having to have a sealed area over an 8 x 32 porch where the trusses go out to the porch columns.

Appreciating any comments, 1TW


actech panels can do this, thats how they are being used in the residence i am building
JellyUser is Offline
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Posts:269




11/16/2007 4:45 AM  
Posted By cmkavala on 08/26/2007 5:07 PM
PI;

The only true SIP on you list is Actech, but you won't like the price, they only make 3" thick x 2ft. wide

The best product for the money is thru link

I wouldn't advise any synthetic directly to steel , that is one mistake I made on my own home. Conventional stucco is still the best bet



[/quote]
Chris, do you mean you put synthetic stucco directly on to the steel without any lath or without a drainage plane? What ultimately happened, I mean why would you call it a mistake?
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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Posts:807





11/16/2007 6:33 AM  
Posted By mcinfantry on 11/16/2007 12:43 AM
Posted By 1tightwad on 09/05/2007 12:55 PM
Is it possible to use the steel sided sips for the walls and then to use the same type of steel panels for the ceiling. These could be attached to the bottom of the truss chords. If this has been done before, where is the thermal break so I wouldn't have steel to steel that had outside temps.

If this is possible, this would give the "box" of the house as a much smaller volumn that has conditioned air space and then the attic space would not have to be conditioned air space. The ceiling panels would be about 55% of the area of the roof. That would also eliminate having to have a sealed area over an 8 x 32 porch where the trusses go out to the porch columns.

Appreciating any comments, 1TW[/quote]

actech panels can do this, thats how they are being used in the residence i am building

mcinfantry;

Sorry to hear someone talked you into building that way, you got bad advice you don't need to take my word for it see the experts at Building Science Corp.  http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates

Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS
mcinfantryUser is Offline
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Posts:9




11/16/2007 8:15 AM  
oops, read too fast. i missed the "bottom" of the chord part. i assumed (we know what that means) it was conventional style construction. disregard my previous post

i guess 18 hour days is catching up to me!
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