First post, but thx for the data so far, this forum seems very knowlegable.

So, I built a home in Lake Tahoe w/ radiant heat 5 years ago, and it has been great. Slab on grade on first floor, and stained concrete w/ radiant heat,
then gypcrete top, with engineered wood and radiant heat.

I'm selling, and planning another build, and more of budget build, and debating radiant or not.

it will not be a slab foundation, so that is different, and while I love the stained concrete look of my floors, I've read you can't do that w/ the gypcrete, and that the LW concrete alternative tends to crack.

With that data, I'm thinking an extra flooring material, plus the hydronic expenses, it may not make sense in this build

for 1800 feet, stick built, 2 story, in high altitude winter country, are hydronics significantly more $?

and,
I also read in this forum about 2 stage furnaces? that Ive never heard of. And, that they are quieter, more consistent? Any thoughts on these systems for High Altitude cold winters?

Thx for any help or thoughts!

Cheers,
Holiday

Hydronic heat is double, but costs less to operate, lasts longer and is more comfortable.

Radiant floors, walls, ceilings and wall-hung radiators are all viable alternatives to a cold floor, guaranteed when forced air "heating" is employed - the same stuff they put in trailer houses remember.

You may also heat domestic hot water with a sealed combustion 98% efficient, quiet GREEN boiler.

Thx,
and those reasons are why I'm still thinking about it in a budget build.

Has anyone used the LW concrete to do the radiant heat, and then stained it? if I could save on flooring, and keep the direct transfer of heat, it may still make financial sense.

thx,
Holiday

after reading through this forum a bit, and checking some websites, it seems Warmboard may be a good solution. haven't seen pricing, but the product looks like it could be a good fit.

thx,
Holiday

Be prepared for some sticker-shock...

before I ever got sticker shock, I did a bit more research, and it looks like Eco-warm may be a better/ cheaper alternative. Is that true? Is Concrete still the best way financially, and being able to stain it? or gypcrete, and put flooring over it?

Thx,
Holiday

I have a friend in the concrete business that lately has been pouring a gypcreet mix with a slightly different mix adding stain, says that it has a slat look and is tough. one option.
Also you can increases joist plan and pour 2 1/2 light weight cement and do acid wash. you will have cracks but wall lay out and control joints can minimize, also a 2x2foot grid cut after pour will help.
You might look at RHT floor panel, this is a cost effective alternate to a warm board, you can lay a floating floor on top, carpet, or tile.
Good luck,
Happy T day to all
Dan

Dan,
Would the water temps be roughly equal for the RHT panel system compared to Warmboard (all other things being equal)?

Neither sandwich method (such as RHT or any other plywood/plate system) nor ecowarm are equal to warmboard in performance. Sandwich installs are more cost effective, typically, if you have lots of cheap labor, but you are sacrificing some performance. middle road there is a heavy plate sandwich which is in between light sandwich and warmboard in performance and cost and that will beat most other prefab panel products for output as well.

whether the performance hit is a big deal or not depends on your labor cost situation and your heat load/water temp requirements.

RHT floor panel will typically run at temperatures in the 100-110 degree range for most applications. I am not familar with design temps of Warm board.
Install is easy, and yes there is labor involved, as is true with warm board, some one has to place the panels, line up the track, rout out what needs to be and install pipe and manifolds.
With the RHT system there is no routing of panels, our system can be placed after finished paint or after framing. Leaves option to drypack in tile areas.
Cost is about 1/3. We estimate the sandwitch (pipe, manifold, turns, site purchased 3/4 plywood, heat transfer plates) at about $2.75 square foot.
We like it.
All this said a topping pour is easier and may cost less if you have the structure for it.
Dan

Thx for the thoughts.
Dan,
I must admit, I'm very interested in this slate looking gypcrete. as i said i'm looking for a budget build, but want to keep hydronics, and gypcrete w/ a finish could be the ticket. we're going for an rustic warehouse type feel anyway, with core 10 steel, some unfinished concrete outside, and gyprcrete up and down w/ hyrdronics may be a deal.

is he the only on doing it? or any resources in lake tahoe?

thx,
Holiday

I will see if I can prob my concrete man as to his recipe and application and post it on site.
Dan

What does "drypack in tile areas" mean?

Thanks.

So, I've been wavering.
I don't think i want to add to the engineering, and have concrete thoughout. I like the idea of having carpet in the downstairs, and hardwood upstairs. It seems products like the RHT, ecowarm, and warmboard are best for this.Of these products, in N. Cal, Lake Tahoe, is one better then the other? Are there trained installers, or is it easy for my contractor? how much on average will it add compared to forced air for an 1800 sq foot, 2 story house?

Getting closer, lot is now under contract, and loan is looking good.

Thx,
Holiday

Posted By Holiday on 17 Dec 2010 12:25 AM
So, I've been wavering.
I don't think i want to add to the engineering, and have concrete thoughout. I like the idea of having carpet in the downstairs, and hardwood upstairs. It seems products like the RHT, ecowarm, and warmboard are best for this.Of these products, in N. Cal, Lake Tahoe, is one better then the other? Are there trained installers, or is it easy for my contractor? how much on average will it add compared to forced air for an 1800 sq foot, 2 story house?

Getting closer, lot is now under contract, and loan is looking good.

Thx,
Holiday

Before ruling out concrete based on structural costs, have your floor supplier model it. If your spans are more than say 18 to 20' it may not require additional costs as the floor design has already been increased to dampen vibration. The concrete will dampen the vib on its own and can use the increase for load. I have seen many calc's over the years were there was no requirement to increase the structure for an 1.5" overlay,