Ratman
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 25 Oct 2008 03:10 PM |
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Are there recommendations or guidelines on Well depth and and Recovery rate to support an Open loop water to air Geothermal system? This is for a 3K sf new construction passive solor home in upstate NY.
I am currently leaning toward the WaterFurnace Envision system. |
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 25 Oct 2008 06:13 PM |
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Ratman,
I can't tell you what is ideal, but I have a Waterfurnace Envision Dual speed 5-ton unit.
I have an open loop. My well is 80ft. deep, pump at ~60ft., yield is 16gpm at 70ft. and my static level is about 5ft..
I choose a pump that does 15.5 gpm at 65ft, so i'll never exceed the yield of the system. It however pumps a lot more than that when the static level remains at 5ft. (after 5 hours of pumping, it move about 1/2", could have been measurement error.)
I have no issue at all suppling my house and the furnace.
For the summer, I am going to install a system to use the furnace discharge water for watering the lawn.
Hope this helps, feel free to ask me any questions. |
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Ratman
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 25 Oct 2008 08:10 PM |
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My current domestic well is 500Ft. I have a 9 Gal/min recovery rate and static level is 50 ft. As you can see my parameters as much worse than yours. I belive I will need to drill 2 seperate wells to support the system but am a bit concerned with my ability ot support the system requirements. My hose will be very energy efficient so I don't expect to have a major load on hte syatem but I also want to be sure I can take the worst case condintion into concederation. |
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 25 Oct 2008 08:18 PM |
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Posted By project_x on 10/25/2008 6:13 PM For the summer, I am going to install a system to use the furnace discharge water for watering the lawn. Hope this helps, feel free to ask me any questions.
Interesting Idea. I too have an open loop system, but currently the water just discharges into the woods behind my house. Currently the sprinkler system runs off city water along with the rest of the house. Can you explain how this system is going to work? I would assume when the sprinklers are not on, the discharge would be in bypass mode, but when you want to run the sprinklers, a value would have to close the discharge path and another valve opens to re-direct the water into the sprinkler system. Also I would assume you would have to know how much each water each sprinkler head discharges, so you can have enough heads so no back pressure builds up, which would affect the geothermal system efficency. Also, some system would have to worked out so if the Geothermal system isn't running at the set time for watering the lawn, the lawn would some how still have to get watered, if the timed cycle for watering the lawn passed without the geo system kicking on.
What steps are you planning on solving these problems? |
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Ratman
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 25 Oct 2008 08:32 PM |
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what is the flow and volume of water during operation ( winter and Summer ).
As for the plumbing to support the sprinkler system, you will need to put in the appropriatly rated check valves and pressure bypass valves to ensure your geothermal system runs efficient.. I would think the easiest way to support a lawn and garden irrigation system is to purchase a storage tank and use a conventional pump for you irrigation system.. You could use this same system for washing the car, clothes and any other none drinking application..
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 25 Oct 2008 08:40 PM |
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Posted By TechGromit on 10/25/2008 8:18 PM Posted By project_x on 10/25/2008 6:13 PM For the summer, I am going to install a system to use the furnace discharge water for watering the lawn. Hope this helps, feel free to ask me any questions.
Interesting Idea. I too have an open loop system, but currently the water just discharges into the woods behind my house. Currently the sprinkler system runs off city water along with the rest of the house. Can you explain how this system is going to work? I would assume when the sprinklers are not on, the discharge would be in bypass mode, but when you want to run the sprinklers, a value would have to close the discharge path and another valve opens to re-direct the water into the sprinkler system. Also I would assume you would have to know how much each water each sprinkler head discharges, so you can have enough heads so no back pressure builds up, which would affect the geothermal system efficency. Also, some system would have to worked out so if the Geothermal system isn't running at the set time for watering the lawn, the lawn would some how still have to get watered, if the timed cycle for watering the lawn passed without the geo system kicking on.
What steps are you planning on solving these problems?
I haven't completely though it through, but what I planned to do is the following ( i can make a sketch next week, my scanner is at the office),
Put a T on your discharge line, and put a Normally Open Solenoid valve on your line to the woods, the other side of the T would have a check valve (which allows water from the furnace to pass through, if pressure is lower on the other side). Connect the other side of the check to a T. One side of which goes to the sprinklers, and the other to your normal supply. On the normal supply (city water for you), there should be an other check valve (so you don't contaminate your drinking water) and a Normally Open Solenoid Valve.
When the sprinkler turns on, it closes the solenoid to the furnace discharge, and when the furnace is running it closes the solenoid for the city water.
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 25 Oct 2008 08:46 PM |
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The reason I thought of using the discharge water,is that I don't want to run the pump or any pump more than I have to.
I would think that would be particularly important if you are pumping from 500ft..
What about a Standing Column Well as a solution for you? The net water usage is very low,.... |
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Alex_in_FL
 New Member
 Posts:96
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| 29 Oct 2008 05:52 PM |
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Sprinkler systems need need 25 - 35 psi water. You are not going to get that from your geothermal circulation pump. Using a much bigger pump will eat into the efficiency of your GSHP. Now if you have a drip irrigation system it might work.
Want to think outside the box? You could try discharging the water to your roof during the summer to create a cool roof. This will provide you with a reduced heat load. |
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 29 Oct 2008 06:01 PM |
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Posted By Alex_in_FL on 10/29/2008 5:52 PM Sprinkler systems need need 25 - 35 psi water. You are not going to get that from your geothermal circulation pump. Using a much bigger pump will eat into the efficiency of your GSHP. Now if you have a drip irrigation system it might work.
Want to think outside the box? You could discharging the water to your roof during the summer to create a cool roof. This will provide you with a reduced heat load.
My open loop is supplied by my well pump. Whether it is supplying water to my sprinklers, through the furnace, or directly from the well pump, it is using the same power.
My static water level is 59" (inches), so my pump works pretty effortlessly, 0 even at 50 psi.
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 29 Oct 2008 06:52 PM |
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Supplying a geo heat pump whose waterside heat exchanger needs approx 5 psi with water from a well pump at 50 psi may be "effortless" but costs considerable efficiency. |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 30 Oct 2008 12:23 AM |
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Posted By engineer on 10/29/2008 6:52 PM Supplying a geo heat pump whose waterside heat exchanger needs approx 5 psi with water from a well pump at 50 psi may be "effortless" but costs considerable efficiency.
Agreed,
But to have a single pump that accomodates Domestic Water, a sprinkler system and a geothermal furnace is a challenge.
Furnace: Hi flow, low pressure
Domestic: High pressure, low flow
Sprinklers: A bit of both.
I have thought of a number of solutions to combat the waste of energy, but i'm not sure what any of the actual savings will be. i.e. two pumps, one for the furnace, and one for the DW, but if both are running, I'm back to wasting energy.
Any ideas would be appreciated
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tuffluckdriller
 Advanced Member
 Posts:630

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| 30 Oct 2008 11:17 AM |
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What about a cistern underground from the well? Can the well/domestic pump supply a tank to keep it full, and the geo draws from it with its own pump? |
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| Clark Timothy ([email protected])<br>Geothermal Heat Pumps: Heating and Cooling that's Dirt Cheap!<br>www.pinksgeothermal.com |
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 30 Oct 2008 11:37 AM |
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Posted By tuffluckdriller on 10/30/2008 11:17 AM What about a cistern underground from the well? Can the well/domestic pump supply a tank to keep it full, and the geo draws from it with its own pump? I think the opposite could be interesting, use the well pump for Geo at low pressure, high flow, and a boost pump for home pressure. I just think the savings will be minimal. It is hard to find a submersible pump with a flow of 15gpm or so in a smaller motor, so really you are comparing a 3/4 HP motor at 20 psi vs. 50 psi (also , what is the pump putting out when it is running 100psi? |
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Alex_in_FL
 New Member
 Posts:96
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| 30 Oct 2008 09:17 PM |
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If you really want that level of efficiency you could install a second pump for the GSHP unit and connect it so only one pump runs at a time. A 1/6 hp grunfos pump usually takes about 0.250 KW per hour (the 1/12 hp unit uses 0.210 KW). Your 3/4 hp pump is going to consume a lot more energy than that...probably around 0.8 - 1 KW.
How about doing a calculation to see which is more efficient? Using a 3/4 hp pump all the time or having some minor overlap where you have a 3/4 hp and a 1/6 hp pump running simultaneously. My guess is dual pumps will be the more efficient. |
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 30 Oct 2008 11:22 PM |
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I'd run them independently, but I can't wrap my mind around how they'd be plumbed...both sown in the same well? |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 31 Oct 2008 08:21 AM |
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Posted By engineer on 10/30/2008 11:22 PM I'd run them independently, but I can't wrap my mind around how they'd be plumbed...both sown in the same well?
The issue is that there is always a possibility of the well drawing down to 50 or 60ft, when/if this does happen, I will require the 3/4 hp to move the 16gpm required by the house and gshp.
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tuffluckdriller
 Advanced Member
 Posts:630

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| 31 Oct 2008 10:31 AM |
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On possibly low flowing water wells in our area, the smart water well drillers install a tank or two underground for storage. These allow for not over-pumping the well. What these offer,too, is that the home, that's too far from a water system, has both adequate for the domestic use needs, and has a "fire hydrant" value for fire suppression for that house. It lowers people's insurance costs. That's why it came to mind for your project, if you're worried about drawing down the well too much.
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| Clark Timothy ([email protected])<br>Geothermal Heat Pumps: Heating and Cooling that's Dirt Cheap!<br>www.pinksgeothermal.com |
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 31 Oct 2008 10:42 AM |
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Posted By tuffluckdriller on 10/31/2008 10:31 AM On possibly low flowing water wells in our area, the smart water well drillers install a tank or two underground for storage. These allow for not over-pumping the well. What these offer,too, is that the home, that's too far from a water system, has both adequate for the domestic use needs, and has a "fire hydrant" value for fire suppression for that house. It lowers people's insurance costs. That's why it came to mind for your project, if you're worried about drawing down the well too much. [/quote]
It's not that I have a low yield well, it will pump 16gpm all day long from 60 or 70 feet.
It's where does the static level go during this time . If the static level always remained at 5ft, a system would be easy, but if the static level goes down while running the furnace, dishwasher, washer and the sprinklers, I need to be able to "lift" enough water to supply at a reasonable flow (16GPM), in order to do this you would need a powerful enough pump.
Even with a storage tank, you still need to lift the water to the tank and provide a flow sufficient for the furnace, same issue...
I'd have to do the calculations, but even at 15psi, i don't think a 1/16hp pump is going to supply 10gpm to my furnace from 70ft.
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 31 Oct 2008 10:51 PM |
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That dynamic situation definitely changes required pump power and type. Are you sure you aren't overpumping? Open loop can go as low as 1.5 GPM / ton, depending on water temp. Given your pumping situation system efficiency (factoring in pump power) might actually rise if your reduced gpm / ton. |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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project_x
 New Member
 Posts:62
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| 01 Nov 2008 05:29 AM |
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Posted By engineer on 10/31/2008 10:51 PM That dynamic situation definitely changes required pump power and type. Are you sure you aren't overpumping? Open loop can go as low as 1.5 GPM / ton, depending on water temp. Given your pumping situation system efficiency (factoring in pump power) might actually rise if your reduced gpm / ton.
My 5-ton Envision is set for about 1.9gpm per ton (9.5gpm) and my house requires 7 or so, so my min pumping rate, if both are used simultaneously is >16gpm. Which my well will provide, until it draws down to 60ft or so where my pump will only provide 15.5gpm which is less than the infiltration from the well test.
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