Joe, We recently [OK - my husband :-)] recently intalled our ground loops - but we did the manifold inside the house. It is set up so that each loop can be isolated. And filled via garden hose. We can send you a picture soon, if that is what you are looking for. No pex - All HDPE and brass fittings. 4 x 800 ft loops - 6' to 8' deep and come into the basement. We did the whole system ourselves and can monitor with mechanical devices in/out pressures and temperatures. Plan on doing the electronic version after i get this paid for. We are very pleased with how well everything is working. Launa / Nevadarn

Joe,

Have you seen or used stab fittings? They are like shark teeth fitting except for HDPE. You can order a manifold that won't need to be fused. They are kind of pricey, but are IGSHPA approved.

Posted By geodean on 16 Aug 2010 11:30 PM
Joe,

Have you seen or used stab fittings? They are like shark teeth fitting except for HDPE. You can order a manifold that won't need to be fused. They are kind of pricey, but are IGSHPA approved.

I've not seen these in a geo app, but have used them for underground gas pipe (if we are thinking of the same thing). The gas pipe parts rarely failed, but unlike shark teeth, were not reusable if installer goofed.
Is there a particular manufacturer?
I'll look around.
I have a picture in my minds eye that suggests PEXa may have lower shipping weight and be more DIY friendly, but I'm certainly open to anyone's suggestions.....(that's why I axed:)).
BTW bit the bullet and went with "Wild Blue" so I'm not as afraid of links as I once was.
Thanks Dewayne,
Joe

Posted By nevadarn on 16 Aug 2010 12:14 PM
Joe, We recently [OK - my husband :-)] recently intalled our ground loops - but we did the manifold inside the house. It is set up so that each loop can be isolated. And filled via garden hose. We can send you a picture soon, if that is what you are looking for. No pex - All HDPE and brass fittings. 4 x 800 ft loops - 6' to 8' deep and come into the basement. We did the whole system ourselves and can monitor with mechanical devices in/out pressures and temperatures. Plan on doing the electronic version after i get this paid for. We are very pleased with how well everything is working. Launa / Nevadarn

Nevadarn,
I'll look forward to your pictures.
Did you use slinkies, 1 or multipipe trench? After flushing with a garden hose how did you add antifreeze into the system? Or is it required for your app.?
Thanks for your help.

Dewayne,
Found it. It is Continental (con-stab). Checking to see if they have isolation valves.
Good thought tx.
j

Joe, on my DIY loops I used compression fittings specifically made for SDR-11. Standard barb fittings are slightly undersize for SDR pipe since they're made for IPS dimensions. I used barb fittings to pressure test my loops during installation, and I could eventually get them to hold pressure with 2 hose clamps but it wasn't somehting I was willing to do permanently, since they tended to leak if you looked at them sideways. The compression fittings I used can adapt to NPT or PVC fittings - I can't recall the name now but I can look it up when I get home. I think they were about $10 per fitting, but I assume they'd be cheaper in quantity. They were nicely designed and I think they're even rated for burial, though I wouldn't go that far myself.

I valved each loop seperately and never had any trouble flushing with the loop pump by itself. I think I was getting about 5-6gpm in each 3/4" loop when isolating them.

I can post some pics of my manifold if you're interested. I went from the SDR-11 HDPE loops to the compression adapters to a PVC manifold back to 1-1/2" HDPE (IPS this time so I could use barb fittings) to run across the cellar to the flow center. I fabricated the open flow center from 6" PVC with various adapters. It works fine and I'm glad I did it, but I think my cost for the parts ended up being as much as a pre-fabricated one from B&D - 6" PVC stuff is $$$ at the box stores.

Edit: I remembered the fitting brand - it was Cepex. Their catalog is here:

http://www.cepex.com/download/brochures/PP%20Compression%20Fittings%20USA.pdf

The ones I used are on page 44.

thanks cny.
how did you add antifreeze?
j

Posted By joe.ami on 17 Aug 2010 10:46 PM
thanks cny.
how did you add antifreeze?
j

I just closed the valve between the return line and tank and opened up a drain until I got to a point where I could pour in the antifreeze and keep up with the water draining out. Since the flow rate was so low there was basically no mixing so I ended up with a "slug" of fairly high concentration methanol in about half the system. I then ran it at full flow for a few hours and it seemed to mix everything nicely. I checked the concentration repeatedly and it didn't vary much, so I don't think it took long to mix. This is one area where an open flow center makes things easier. The alternative would have been putting a utility pump in a 5 gallon pail and pumping in a pre-mixed 20% solution.

Now you're probably going to ask me what I used for antifreeze and since I've had a few I'll admit that it was a combination of race fuel that my friend had left over after his season was done and windshield washer fluid (the cheap blue stuff is just methanol, water, and blue dye, and conveniently pre-mixed to a safe concentration). I would have had to buy a 55-gallon drum otherwise and ended up with about 3x what I actually needed. I made sure to pre-mix the straight methanol outside down to a relatively safe level!

Just don't drink the DIY antifreeze in the course of 'having a few'

Posted By engineer on 18 Aug 2010 01:32 AM
Just don't drink the DIY antifreeze in the course of 'having a few'

I guess that's where Ethanol has the advantage...

tx cny. I have been kicking the open flow center idea around as well as a $50 pump and pail perhaps for the final loop.
I certainly don't want to ship pre filled loops as others have done.
j

Terrasource ( a DIY company) ships loops containing antifreeze. Water is added at installation.

Regards,

Masoud