Any information, real life examples would be appreciated. I have received a Manual J that would justify a 2 ton unit Climate Master Tranquility 27. I have a R-30 Insulation in the attic. My house and 13 SEER Trane AC/Heat Pump with emergency heat strip are 7 years old and the house is of block construction pretty well sealed. KwH pricing of 10.8 cents. I am currently around 2500 KW per month with a pool pump. I live in Florida where it is always hot and humid. I am intending to include my water heater pool on the system. I have been told that when I am cooling the water heater will not kick on and in the winter will be 6 times as efficient. I have also been told I can do an open loop system. My questions are is open loop good? What percentage of electric savings could I realistically expect on A. water heater (is what I heard true?) B. How much less electric should I expect to use over my 13 seer Heat Pump? In Florida what should one expect to pay for the wells etc? Basically, I like the idea of Geo but want to see a cash savings before I re-sale or get rid of a perfectly working 13 seer system. What would my pay back period be? I am not worried about Future Value of Money etc. I will say the chances of electric costs rising is probably equal to my chance of earnings on an investment. I just am trying to say my water heater says it takes 500 a year to run. Will I save 400 on it? MY AC or heater I am assuming cost me approximately 1000 a year. Will I save 100 a year to get it to 900 or will it go from a 1000 to 500. Any homeowners or installers who could add some insight I would sooooooooooo appreciate the advice. Also, I am concerned about an open loop design. Would my pump be running all the time? I think a large part of my current electric bill is my pool pump.

If you are anywhere near Engineer (Curt), I would give him a call. One of the best people here. :-)

Thanks, I will try Engineer. I am really concerned that the energy to pump in a open system will offset my savings. I don't want to sound politically incorrect, but for me the green decision is based on greenbacks. :)

Geome - that was very kind of you - thanks!

Bludigal - If you are within my area of operation (basically an hour or so from Jacksonville) I offer a deep energy assessment service priced at one month's average energy bill. I perform a room-by room Manual J calculation, measure airflow from all supply ducts, and identify rooms that are overblown or starved of air. This usually dovetails with occupant reports of discomfort. I also include a discussion of additional (at least 5) "energy centers" within your home - water heating is #1 on that list.

I perform blower door, infrared thermal imaging, and ductwork inspection at reasonable rates. I completely understand your desire to go "green" only if it saves "green"...in fact that's the basic premise of my business.

If you are outside my area, I offer long distance consulting at an hourly rate. I'll assess proposals by local contractors, conduct email and telephone interviews of them and otherwise advise on alternatives.

The questions you pose are very particular to your individual situation and accurate answers will require taking that into account.

You can of course post questions here and at geoexchange.org and we'll do our best to answer them, free of charge!

Engineer:

Thanks! I have PM'd you for contact information I may take you up on the phone consult. I was curious if you know any common problems with Open Loop shallow wells and reasons one may want to avoid that type of solution in Florida.

Thanks again!

bludigal,
you say the load suggests a 2 ton but offer no other info to help answer your questions......
if you are near curt, that's your best bet.
j