Steps before adding Geothermal - Continued...
Last Post 02 Aug 2012 11:03 PM by engineer. 27 Replies.
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sbeausolUser is Offline
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22 Jun 2012 11:23 AM
This is a follow up to a previous thread located here: http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/aff/13/aft/80100/afv/topic/Default.aspx WIthout reading it, the summary is that I've purchased a 2100 sqft ranch in Essex MA with 2.6 acres of land. The current heating system is electric baseboard. I tried to get an energy audit (w/IR) but it turns out that the closing was delayed and it's gotten two warm for the IR audit to be productive. To date, I've had one heating company out and they are proposing a 3 ton ASHP system made by Bryant (the Bryant Evolution). The quote includes duct work (there isn't any - basement is open) and is coming in at $19k, which seems high to me but I don't have much experience in this area. The HVAC guy also indicated ductless minisplits would be an option, but was pushing the bryant. A few questions - 1) How is that quote? 2) Can I still have a productive energy audit without IR? 3) Does anyone have feedback on the Bryant Systems? 4) One problem I keep running into, is that when inquiring with HVAC guys around here, they laugh when I ask about geo - everyone seems to think installation would be $100k. Can anyone recommend a good Geo company around my area? They claim the Bryant system runs down to 17F and heating strips can serve as a backup. If any one has some feedback, I'd greatly appreciate it.
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22 Jun 2012 11:39 AM
Infrared works best with a large indoor/outdoor Delta T. So if you cool the house, easy peasy.....
Start by googling the igshpa website for certified installers in your area.
My gut would be that you should be able to find both an energy auditor and that geo should out perform ASHP in your area.
The price you were quoted for airsource is not much less than I charge for geo with ducts around here but cost of doing business is dramatically higher for folks on the east coast......
Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort!
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22 Jun 2012 11:46 AM
Sounds like you are talking to the wrong people(for geo anyway) Hang in there. If you can get an ASHP with ductwork for $19k, You can likely get a GSHP for around $30k which would be a wash after the tax credit. I would call these guys for a couple of installers in your area http://www.northeastgeo.com/
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22 Jun 2012 12:22 PM
At typical MA rates a 3-ton geo system would run ~$25-35K, (not $100K) before tax credits and other subsidies. With incentives the net cost would be less than or comparable to the cost of the Bryant. The Bryant Evolution hype claims and HSPF "up to 13.0", which would mean a geo-like average COP of 3.8, but "up to" figures usually mean "in your dreams". And while best-practices might beat an average of 4 with margin, even fairly sloppy geo designs would hit 3.5-ish.

Three tons is probably a reasonable size with only modest envelope improvements on the house. If you're planning any bigger load reduction, (exterior wall insulation, high performance windows or low-E storms, insulating the foundation, etc.) it's probably oversized.

But lets assume your net cost for geo or ducted ASHP come in at around $20 any way you cut it. If
There is plenty of subsidy available for any of it in Essex MA, including 7 year zero interest loans of $25K for geo, (not sure if that applies to ductless or the Bryant )

See:

http://www.masssave.com/residential/heating-and-cooling/offers/heat-loan-program

http://www.masssave.com/~/media/Files/Residential/Information%20and%20Edu%20Docs/Heat%20Loan%20Eligibility%20Options%20Generic.ashx

Given the cheap-money aspects don't give up on the geo, but when in doubt, improve the building envelope first, and be aggressive about it, since a higher performance building buys more comfort than a higher-performance HVAC system. If you take it to the deep energy retrofit extremes with > R40 walls and
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23 Jun 2012 12:13 AM
I'm installing what I believe to be the Carrier equivalent of the Bryant Evolution on a full gut remodel of a 1920s house here in Jax. It is branded as "Greenspeed Intelligence" It is a very slow going project, so I do not have operating data, but it is to be a 3 ton system (efficiency sweet spot within the model line) serving 4 zones with all components within the pressure and thermal envelope...house is getting closed cell spray foam on all six sides, and my blower door and theatrical smoke machine will help ensure the foam job works as planned.

While I have a healthy skepticism of SEER, EER and HSPF "up to" ratings, I'm not quite as disdainful as Dana. They do represent AHRI certified values, which means that if a system is installed and charged per manufacturer instructions and connected to decent ductwork it oughta produce 80-90% of lab rated performance...kinda like EPA mpg ratings...if you drive conservatively, you can attain the MPG ratings.

I believe Carrier has applied to a split system model line what the Asian minisplit mfgs have been doing for awhile...write tight software to control indoor fan, outdoor compressor and outdoor fan speeds to intelligently vary them according to conditions.

I'm ecumenical enough to believe that the optimal solution to your newly purchased house is any of (or a combination of)

1) geo
2) minisplits
3) Bryant / Carrier highly optimized conventional split system
4) Envelope improvements.

I'll be in adjacent Manchester, Mass from 1-5 July and again 15-20 July. Perhaps we can meet on site or at nearby Woodman's and discuss options.

While IR analysis during cold weather does offer unique insights, a blower door test and walkdown of the building envelope while blower door is depressurizing / pressurizing will yield useful info as well. I haven't enough room to bring my blower dooor to Mass, but consider arranging for a local energy auditor to run a blower door test in early July.
Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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25 Jun 2012 05:56 PM
"While I have a healthy skepticism of SEER, EER and HSPF "up to" ratings, I'm not quite as disdainful as Dana. They do represent AHRI certified values, which means that if a system is installed and charged per manufacturer instructions and connected to decent ductwork it oughta produce 80-90% of lab rated performance...kinda like EPA mpg ratings...if you drive conservatively, you can attain the MPG ratings."

It's the 80-90% of lab-rated performance even when it's done most-right that makes me shy away from ducted statements on efficiency. There are fewer ways to screw up ductless systems in ways that would peel 10-20% off the system performance. To be fair, even 80% of a 13.0 HSPF performance is a VERY good 10.5 "as installed" HSPF.

But the $20K price tag is a bit daunting. I'm sure there are many ways to spend $20K on improving the efficiency of the house.

As field & lab testing under the Northwest Ductless Pilot program has shown (http://neea.org/research/reports/E12-237_Combined.pdf ) most manufacturers' unit meet, and often exceed the rated performance, even when they hit their HSPF numbers in the lab. But HSPF is only the half of it- with any air-source heat pump, how well -tweaked the control algorithms work for YOUR climate and YOUR load makes or breaks it.
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26 Jun 2012 10:05 AM
Posted By Dana1 on 25 Jun 2012 05:56 PM

As field & lab testing under the Northwest Ductless Pilot program has shown (http://neea.org/research/reports/E12-237_Combined.pdf ) most manufacturers' unit meet, and often exceed the rated performance, even when they hit their HSPF numbers in the lab. But HSPF is only the half of it- with any air-source heat pump, how well -tweaked the control algorithms work for YOUR climate and YOUR load makes or breaks it.
No doubt ductless can be most efficient when the application is a good fit.
A typical home with lot's of partitions often finds a ducted system to be a better fit comfortwise, and there's the problem.

They don't really compare well for most homes and it is disingenuous to try to compare ducted to unducted as they perform very differently....if you can't get even temps to all the rooms in your home with one or 2 minisplits, then wouldn't you rather duct it? Should efficiency always trump comfort?

...and then my favorite, "we'll just duct the ductless"......ummm hello, now it suffers much of the same efficiency hit as any other ducted system (the same folks wanna oversize heat pumps to stay in first stage "'cause it's more efficient" thus re-inventing the single stage heat pump).

As Dana points out climate and load have a lot to do with equipment selection as does code and comfort and goals.
 

Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort!
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26 Jun 2012 01:07 PM
Posted By sbeausol on 22 Jun 2012 11:23 AM
This is a follow up to a previous thread located here: http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/aff/13/aft/80100/afv/topic/Default.aspx


a 2100 sqft ranch in Essex MA with 2.6 acres of land

can be horizontlly trenched for GT say a single 4ft wide, three pipe, x 240 ft long x 7ft low depth and over back at 5ft (excavators will understand) - over-under / out and back with 500 ft x 3/4 coils, IF NO ROCKS NOR SHALE, or you should place in clay -/ little sand/ around piping, avoiding pipe leakage-

Any Basement?
for considering maximum comforts:
half that basaement in a calc works well:
1400 cfm on high heating, (a 3.1/2 "ton") but only about 2.1/2 air changes , ducted properly , on cooling (I liive zone 5.1/2+, had 41 deg 2 weeks ago, 10% cooler than Cleveland ) - This is like what no Mini will  near 80% do for total comfort. An  under-ducted home is closer to Mini-Comforts with Mini's../, UNLESS open Mezz, etc, just 2 or three closed/day-opened  rooms are planned, and 65% to 85% spot comforts are acceptable.

Do you have any n-gas for back-up?. Note: Most "3-Ton" rated GT are with only a 2.1/2 ton compressor.
See your manual J heat load and compare to the AirHP (and MINI's) out puts of "3-rated-'tons' " at 12F and 7F and decide.
Efficiency trade offs, ---
do you have a super little car? OR did you enjoy a loss of 100 to 400 monthly on the ' Leather'? If peace of mind attitudinally extends profits above that, then we enjoy 'Leather'.

DO PUT MORE IN THE BUILDING AS IS NECESSARY and resale values are then higher, as well.
But then--- 
 only decide on form and function asking ABOUT BOTH the HVAC WITH HOT WATER HEATING in every question to the contractor.
ADD th HW SYSTEM COSTS to all equating.

"How will I fair in an overall "controller's" view of satisfying a 7yr ROI and affording necessary HW+HVAC comforts and efficiencies?"

If you want a 2 or 3-Staging unit, the heat load may be avoided by sizing for INSTANT HW of using a 3.-3.1/4 ton compressor system for recovery like that of a gas HW heater. Then  the staging, like individual Mini's , efficiently ONLY MATCHES LOADS, from 1.1/2 Tons on up, or if all you want is a DeSuperheating HW generator for the tax credits and admittedly significant HW, a 2-Staging "3-Ton" w/ an efficient 2.1/2-ton compressor, will start a first stage closer to just one ton.

Perhaps still ask to know:
How do I adequately recover heat in Cooling modes while simultaneously heating water larger than just a desuperheater?

 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
at $19k, which seems high ...quote- and nearer 2-staging GT comparable 2.1/2 ton unit. an extra zone dampening, and a 3-Ton Loop, etc. with HW ~ ?under 27000 (tanks, plumbing, all) net @ $18,900. less Ut'y Rebbates???

2100 ranch? nder $8000 ducting and setting, $8000-10000 Loop and Pump, 3-Ton of any 2012 Energy Star assymptotic efficiencies all have to have--- @ $4500+ hook up...  and   add HW SYTEM(s) in GT Credits as are for the Qualified owner.
Horizontal excavators - one ditch, may be saving 2500 more, if a 3ft pile of dirt for a year can settle.

AirHP +++ HW SYstems , then not in credits  vs. HW+HVAC  "in credit"...= ? x .7 and less Ut'y Credited Rebates...@ ?


YOU MAY FIND A 2-TON RATED , DESUPERHEATER INSTALLS (-2.1/2TON - 2-STAGING) just more reasonable , but ON A 3-TON LOOP w/ HW production, etc. to maximize a total return of dollars in 10 years, anyways.
By DOING-  a productive energy audit -  AFTER BUILDING TIGHTENING CALCLATIONS, even in 10-below weather.
2- 2.1/2ton GT super-compares to any 3-Ton 20-SEER / both appropriately installed.

Bryant Systems?


Geo company around my area?       [email protected]     www.groundloop.com  will know , all though not local




Bryant system runs down to --- seen 3-deg F , 3- ton 14 SEER 1999,  fine -2011 working still, then removed in remodel.

rarely low zone 5, heating strips as a backup.


www.GEOPros.com

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26 Jun 2012 01:41 PM
Posted By Dana1 on 25 Jun 2012 05:56 PM
"While I have a healthy skepticism of SEER, EER and HSPF "up to" ratings, I'm not quite as disdainful as Dana. They do represent AHRI certified values, which means that if a system is installed and charged per manufacturer instructions and connected to decent ductwork it oughta produce 80-90% of lab rated performance...kinda like EPA mpg ratings...if you drive conservatively, you can attain the MPG ratings."

It's the 80-90% of lab-rated performance even when it's done most-right that makes me shy away from ducted statements on efficiency. There are fewer ways to screw up ductless systems in ways that would peel 10-20% off the system performance. To be fair, even 80% of a 13.0 HSPF performance is a VERY good 10.5 "as installed" HSPF.

But the $20K price tag is a bit daunting. I'm sure there are many ways to spend $20K on improving the efficiency of the house.

As field & lab testing under the Northwest Ductless Pilot program has shown (http://neea.org/research/reports/E12-237_Combined.pdf ) most manufacturers' unit meet, and often exceed the rated performance, even when they hit their HSPF numbers in the lab. But HSPF is only the half of it- with any air-source heat pump, how well -tweaked the control algorithms work for YOUR climate and YOUR load makes or breaks it.


It is always worthnpointing out that the rated performance occurs at 41F entering (32F for second stage) of EWT, which a loop should reach only at the end of the heating season. Average EWT is much higher, running ystsems more efficient. It all depends on the install and the skills of the installer.
www.buffalogeothermalheating.com
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26 Jun 2012 02:01 PM
Ductless solutions in climate zone 5 ( sbeausol's location ) would be more appropriate in houses with whole-wall R values that are 2x code min (~R28-30 whole-wall, in this case) or higher, or with fairly open floor plans.

I totally agree that ducting a ductless is a non-starter. Short-ducted heads to supply 2 doored off rooms with 1 head may make sense in rare instances, but I've yet to see that instance in the real world.

With any ducted system, designing it for the shortest possible duct runs takes the edge off the efficiency penalty.

In the NW Ductless Pilot at least one cold-weather ducted system was assessed (IIRC it was the Hallowell Acadia), in a climate zone 5 location, and it's in-situ measured performance was well under it's HSPF (and expectations) on efficiency, scoring well under a seasonal COP of 2. It was bad enough that the testing team believed there was something wrong with the installation, but the manufacturer was either unable or unwilling to rectify it. This was in a region where the Fujitsus & Mitsubishi's were averaging COPs in the 2.7-2.8 range. To be fair to Hallowell, in other testing in a similar climate in CT (very relevant to seaubol's coastal-MA location), the Acadia averaged ~2.5, which would correspond to an as-used HSPF of ~8.5. See p 28 of this document:

http://www.eeba.org/conference/2011/presentations/Puttagunta.pdf

Note that on the cold edge of zone 5 (the Colrain MA example, p. 32-34) they heated a R40-wall house with a 2-head multi-split, using ~2000kwh over an entire winter (in a ~7000HDD climate) for a total annual heating bill less than $350. even at ~$0.17/kwh. This is where I suspect sbeausol can go if he's willing to spend the real money on the building envelope rather than the heating system, and being a 1-story it can probably be done with a single-head version. On a house like that the higher efficiency of geo might save as much as $100/year as a best-case.

It's not clear just how well the Carrier/Bryant Evolotion is going to perform in a real house in this climate- it appears to be a better mousetrap, but at nearly $20K for the system it would be better to see third party validation in a similar climate. For that kind of money geo seems a better bet than ducted air-source, but is it going to be a better bet than a deep energy retrofit and a (comparatively) cheap ductless? Subsidies may be the determining factor on the financial question, but I have little doubt that the higher-R tighter house wins on comfort.
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27 Jun 2012 10:25 AM
Down here, The Carrier isn't too much more expensive than a high end Trane or similar heat pump NOT nearly so optimized for cold weather heating, so I have to figure much of that $20k is related to ductwork, which geo would need as well.

I agree totally with demanding real-world data / references / happy customers before committing to cutting edge heat pump in a cold climate.
Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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27 Jun 2012 11:11 AM
Sounds good guys. I have a geo installer coming tomorrow for a consult so I should get some comparative pricing soon. I'm concerned about the ASHP in the winter, and the price seems high. We'll see what the Geo guys say.

I appreciate the input!
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27 Jun 2012 11:12 AM
"I totally agree that ducting a ductless is a non-starter."
I think people make comfort v efficient operation decisions all the time and that's ok. My only objection is to a constant apples v oranges comparison.
Regarding the ducted ASHP, Curt may be right. Much of the cost is ducts, so the geo isn't necessarily double.
It has been my experience that air source and geo generally recoup the cost of their additional expense in about the same amount of time. Once paid for however, the geo saves much more.
Generally the only $100,000 geos we see include geo radiant and modulating back up boilers etc.
j
Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort!
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31 Jul 2012 11:43 AM
Finally got my first Geo quote which includes the following:
48,000 BTU heating, 23,000 BTU Cooling
Domestic hot water assist, Two zones, air handler, water furnace series 5: $16k
4 horizontal loops: $7k
Ductwork: $12k
Equipment Installation: $14k
Discount: $4k
TOTAL: $46k

At first glance, it seems high, but at least it's not $100k... any thoughts?
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31 Jul 2012 08:12 PM
That's quite a bit more than a similar system would go for in my AO, but NE Mass is a much more expensive area than north Fla.

We seem to have drifted away from 3 tons...what's with that? Fear not some aux strip use.

The one number that really jumps out at me is $14k for equipment installation, since that does not include ductwork.

Get a couple more bids and a load calc that factors in modest envelope improvements.

Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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31 Jul 2012 11:05 PM
Here we go again with outrageous quotes for geo. I KNOW the NE is insanely high but that's ridiculous!!

sb.....have you read this thread on here?

http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/aff/13/aft/79495/afv/topic/Default.aspx
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31 Jul 2012 11:13 PM
I would think somewhere around $35,000 at the most.
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01 Aug 2012 09:37 AM
Have you gotten any ductless quotes, yet? The thought of putting $12K worth of ducts in a place that previously had baseboard leaves me cold. That amount would go a long way towards envelope improvement.
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01 Aug 2012 11:45 AM
The same company that gave me the Bryant ASHP quote was indicating that the ductless setup wouldn't be great in my space. I am considering getting someone else out, but there aren't many companies around here (that I've found at least) that like to work with anything other than Nat Gas or Oil...
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01 Aug 2012 02:19 PM
Posted By sbeausol on 31 Jul 2012 11:43 AM
Finally got my first Geo quote which includes the following:
48,000 BTU heating, 23,000 BTU Cooling
Domestic hot water assist, Two zones, air handler, water furnace series 5: $16k
4 horizontal loops: $7k
Ductwork: $12k
Equipment Installation: $14k
Discount: $4k
TOTAL: $46k

At first glance, it seems high, but at least it's not $100k... any thoughts?

Your design condition heat load isn't likely to be anywhere near 48KBTU/hr on a house that size in Essex- it shouldn't be if the place has been tightened up at ALL!

Did they run a room-by-room Manual-J and come up with something like 48,000BTU @ +5F, or 0F, if they had their thumb on the heat load scale for some margin. I've seen people using -5F as an outside design temp with a straight face, but that would be a ridiculous number design to, especially for geo.  The additional cost of gas-fired goods for the extra margin is miniscule or even zero, but not so for geo.  If they didn't do a proper heat load calc, they didn't do the job.  They may ask you to pay for the report if they actually did it (reasonable, since it takes a few hours to do it right), but it's fair to ask them how they came up with 48K.

At $46K for a 4 ton system ($11.5K/ton) you're 25-35% over the ~8.5-9K/ton regional cost average (from CT and MA data).

I suspect where-is-as-is your heat load at +5F is already at or under 40K, and could be brought under 3 tons without much expense.  A well detailed heat load calc report would likely point you to the lowest-hanging fruit.
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