Hot water from Cold water faucets only when GEO is running.
Last Post 01 Mar 2014 10:06 PM by geodude. 31 Replies.
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geodudeUser is Offline
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26 Feb 2014 07:05 PM
I like it. I am not sure that it will be easier to plumb, But maybe?


geodudeUser is Offline
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26 Feb 2014 07:14 PM
do you need a special fitting to use the port that the elements came out of?


FBBPUser is Offline
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26 Feb 2014 07:54 PM
Posted By geodude on 26 Feb 2014 07:14 PM
do you need a special fitting to use the port that the elements came out of?


I just use brass pipe nipples and teflon.


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27 Feb 2014 08:33 AM
"Carl - I believe the attached layout will serve you better."

Carl most of the geo pros here disagree that you would be served better. Especially since you already have a system in place.

Glad you got your hot water problem fixed. Kind of boneheaded for an installer to leave a check valve in the way of circulation, but we have all goofed before. Thanks for letting us know the outcome.


Joe Hardin
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Carl OdleUser is Offline
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28 Feb 2014 12:01 PM
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Posted By geodude on 25 Feb 2014 03:51 PM
Carl. Can you upload a picture of your set up?




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28 Feb 2014 04:11 PM
the first thing that jumps out at me is that you are missing an isolation valve below the tee and above the cold water inlet of the buffer tank, without it you will have a hard time getting the air out of the desuper coil.


Carl OdleUser is Offline
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01 Mar 2014 01:36 PM
Posted By geodude on 28 Feb 2014 04:11 PM
the first thing that jumps out at me is that you are missing an isolation valve below the tee and above the cold water inlet of the buffer tank, without it you will have a hard time getting the air out of the desuper coil.


GEODUDE: There is an isolation valve above the "T" on the DSH inlet side of the buffer tanks "Cold" inlet. It's not shown in the photo.


CHuntMDUser is Offline
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01 Mar 2014 02:41 PM
I had this problem a few years back with my WF Envision 3ton system. At the same time the new clothes washer would cause a water hammer at startup. Fixed both by turning down the water pressure (Bolt in = higher pressure, bolt out = lower pressure) and replacing the check valve with one of these. https://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=check+valve


CHuntMDUser is Offline
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01 Mar 2014 02:44 PM
Carl, I just looked at your picture and that looks like the check valve I had before switching to the sharkbite one.

Also, I have pressure tank (off a T) on buffer tank.

CEH


Carl OdleUser is Offline
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01 Mar 2014 06:09 PM
Posted By CHuntMD on 01 Mar 2014 02:41 PM
I had this problem a few years back with my WF Envision 3ton system. At the same time the new clothes washer would cause a water hammer at startup. Fixed both by turning down the water pressure (Bolt in = higher pressure, bolt out = lower pressure) and replacing the check valve with one of these. https://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=check+valve


CHUNTMD: We have a Carrier GT-PC GEO with Desuperheater. Do you know if you can adjust the water pressure on it? Not that I want to now, just for my reference.


Palace GeothermalUser is Offline
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01 Mar 2014 06:46 PM
the water pressure adjustment is not on the heat pump. The regulator will be on your main water line if you have one.


Dewayne Dean

<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system
geodudeUser is Offline
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01 Mar 2014 10:06 PM
Posted By Carl Odle on 01 Mar 2014 01:36 PM
Posted By geodude on 28 Feb 2014 04:11 PM
the first thing that jumps out at me is that you are missing an isolation valve below the tee and above the cold water inlet of the buffer tank, without it you will have a hard time getting the air out of the desuper coil.


GEODUDE: There is an isolation valve above the "T" on the DSH inlet side of the buffer tanks "Cold" inlet. It's not shown in the photo.


you need one below the tee


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