Broad questions about building a home
Last Post 11 Feb 2009 10:46 AM by johncarl. 12 Replies.
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joefrompaUser is Offline
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28 Jan 2009 04:55 PM

Hi all,

I've just found this forum and have spent about 30-60 minutes browsing. My wife and I are in the earliest phases of potentially building a home: the "Can we do this?" phase. I'm hoping to ask some questions on here to help me figure out that answer :)

The low cost of building and depressed interest rates seem like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for at least the next 1-2 years. But if we are going to do it, we want to do it right.

I just found out about ICF construction, and ALOT of the advantages ring-true with me. Protection from mold, water damage, a tighter seal, less pest invasion, resistance to damage from wind/storms/debris, and potentially damage resistant interior walls. Less air loss (with proper construction) and improved insulation are great too. So my first questions about ICF:

How hard is it to find a reputable subcontractor in a very populated suburban area like SE Pennsylvania?

After all is said and done, if it was $5 per SF with 2x6 construction should I expect something like $7-8 with ICF? Or will the reduced need for certain labors/materials help even it out?

Can you attach things to interior ICF via masonry bits/screws? Do walls made out of ICF feel/look "cold" or is it a somewhat artistic look? Entirely finishing-reliant?

Does roofing become more expensive with ICF? Chimney? I intend to do 2 wood-burning stoves. I don't plan on having any skylights.

Any particular pros/cons of using ICF vs. something like formed steel?

Alot more expensive to do 9' foot ceilings with ICF vs. 8'? Or almost the same cost?



 I'm on a budget that would be desirable to aim around $80/sf for the finished product of the home. I.e. 3200 square feet for $250k to a live-in-ready home....but I really don't want to BUILD cheaply. I want to build a solid, energy efficient home that is built the way my wife and I want.

Does that seem like an unreasonable expectation given ICF construction throughout, proper building techniques, modest cost 2-pane windows, natural gas heat, and a moderate level of building throughout (i.e. granite or similar countertops, but pre-fab cabinets with hard-wood fronts/doors)? No Skylights as named above, no advanced closet systems. I think we are going for reasonably priced materials with outstanding execution....

Going to go back to reading this forum more now... :)

Joe




JellyUser is Offline
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28 Jan 2009 10:29 PM
Joe, a word of caution... I'm building right now (well I'm just digging out the culvert and taking trees down so far) and I haven't found the economic downturn bargains I was hoping to find. It seems people/companies bought supplies and materials at a premium when fuel prices were through the roof. Now they're not all that keen on letting go of them for dirt cheap prices, even though business is slow. But of course the market I'm in (Louisiana) is a bit modified for various reasons. You might find things to be completely different in Pennsylvania.

Welcome to the forum - lots of great knowledge here and wonderful people willing to share it.
tsufanUser is Offline
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29 Jan 2009 08:46 AM
Posted By joefrompa on 01/28/2009 4:55 PM

Hi all,

I've just found this forum and have spent about 30-60 minutes browsing. My wife and I are in the earliest phases of potentially building a home: the "Can we do this?" phase. I'm hoping to ask some questions on here to help me figure out that answer :)

The low cost of building and depressed interest rates seem like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for at least the next 1-2 years. But if we are going to do it, we want to do it right.

I just found out about ICF construction, and ALOT of the advantages ring-true with me. Protection from mold, water damage, a tighter seal, less pest invasion, resistance to damage from wind/storms/debris, and potentially damage resistant interior walls. Less air loss (with proper construction) and improved insulation are great too. So my first questions about ICF:

How hard is it to find a reputable subcontractor in a very populated suburban area like SE Pennsylvania?

After all is said and done, if it was $5 per SF with 2x6 construction should I expect something like $7-8 with ICF? Or will the reduced need for certain labors/materials help even it out?

Can you attach things to interior ICF via masonry bits/screws? Do walls made out of ICF feel/look "cold" or is it a somewhat artistic look? Entirely finishing-reliant?

Does roofing become more expensive with ICF? Chimney? I intend to do 2 wood-burning stoves. I don't plan on having any skylights.

Any particular pros/cons of using ICF vs. something like formed steel?

Alot more expensive to do 9' foot ceilings with ICF vs. 8'? Or almost the same cost?



 I'm on a budget that would be desirable to aim around $80/sf for the finished product of the home. I.e. 3200 square feet for $250k to a live-in-ready home....but I really don't want to BUILD cheaply. I want to build a solid, energy efficient home that is built the way my wife and I want.

Does that seem like an unreasonable expectation given ICF construction throughout, proper building techniques, modest cost 2-pane windows, natural gas heat, and a moderate level of building throughout (i.e. granite or similar countertops, but pre-fab cabinets with hard-wood fronts/doors)? No Skylights as named above, no advanced closet systems. I think we are going for reasonably priced materials with outstanding execution....

Going to go back to reading this forum more now... :)

Joe




We're currently building our home for $89 a square foot in Alabama. Our price one year earlier was $100 a square. We have many upgrades including granite countertops, ten foot ceilings, stained concrete, etc.

There are deals to be found - ours have come mostly on the labor side because the subs are needing to work.

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29 Jan 2009 08:50 AM
What I am hearing is ICF construction is 3%-10% (depending on who you talk to) higher than standard construction for the finished product. So using your numbers, 3%-10% of 250k=7.5k-25k dollars more. That divided out over 3200ft^2 will be 2.3-7.8 dollars per square foot higher, so adding back in the cost of standard construction, it should run between 7.3-12.8 $/ft^2 depending on how optimistic/pessimistic you are. This will also depend on how many corners and offsets your plan has.
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29 Jan 2009 09:35 AM
It depends on your proximity to bubble markets, and SEPa is close enough to Wash. D.C. to benefit. I bought stain grade interior pine doors at an auction last month for $35 and $45, or about 1980s prices, a top end German Miele washer dryer set for 25 percent of retail, and leaded glass entry doors for about 50 percent of retail. That was in Jessup Md: http://southernsalesservices.com/ Peak is taking over the Howard Co Md convention center in March: http://www.peakauction.com/current/index.htm There are a number of construction auctions in lancaster Co. The one in Quarryville is often lightly attended. Auctionzip.com will get you a complete list. Scout a couple first. Go to previews; do your research; go back with firm prices in mind. I passed on a Miele set in Dec when it sold for $1700. I got a second set in Jan for $900.
Construction is way down in Philly, even though there was no bubble here, so you should have your choice of subs and suppliers for the next year or two. There are still risks though: that they'll go broke before they finish, or that they'll milk a per-hour arrangement in order to keep the lights on. The second is easily fixed. Insist politely and firmly on fixed prices, and draw up an agreement. The second is tougher, because the best subs tend to be ambitious, and ambition is often deadly in market busts. You can minimize your risk by paying directly for materials and by installments for labor (which is smart anyway.) If you get a bid for materials that seems too good to be true, run it by your neighborhood box store. If you can find anyone in Home Depot to wait on you, you'll discover they have very sharp pencils these days as well. Don't reflexively take the low bid.
A word of advice on windows. Air infiltration is at least as important as r values. If you buy cheap double hung windows, and you'll see acres of them at these auctions, your ICF house will be as toasty as a thick down jacket with no zipper.
Eric AndersonUser is Offline
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29 Jan 2009 10:15 AM

Joe,

I am sorry to burst your bubble, but I think it will be difficult to build  a reasonable quality house that large for that kind of money.

Assuming you have the land already and you own it free and clear, the land is subdivided and you have a buildable plot with all the site engineering and approvals in hand.

First Questions to answer are
 
Site work:

Well or city water, septic or  city sewer.  Natural gas line?  Propane tank?
How long will the driveway be? 
Do you need to clear trees, etc.
do you need to pay to bring in electric and phone?  How far overhead or underground
What are the soil conditions
How much fill is needed

From this you can estimate all your site costs of building.


House questions.  I suggest you don't focus on the size of the house, but what you want in the house.

are there covenants or restrictions on what you can build?  If so what? 

Do you have a design already in mind?
How long do you plan to live there?  Retire in this house at some future date?   Universal design? Handicap accessible?
How many people do you anticipate living in the house?  Frequent or occasional guests?
Formal or casual dining and entertaining
Are you going to build on a slab or have a basement?  Finished basement
How many bathrooms, bedrooms do you need/ want? 
does any one work from home?
what do you want for flooring?
Do you have good solar potential on the site?
One story or 2 above ground

Lastly what are your skills and time availability?

Are you just going to  hire a builder and write the checks or are you going to GC it or will you just sub out parts and do all the finish work you self?  

From my perspective, the real cost savings in a house are simple efficient design, and  doing some of the labor yourself.  Don't think in terms of square feet, think in terms of what  things you need and want in a house.   Every time you see a room you like measure it and sketch it


Lots of homework for you.  We can help you, but you need to do more research first.

Good Luck,
Eric

 

Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing
ICFconstructionUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2009 08:44 PM
Joe,

Check with ICF distributors to find contractors in your area. ICF walls around here go for $11-$13sf and that is sf which depends on ceiling height. that translates to 3-5% added to the build cost. Interior and exterior finishes are attached to the ties/studs in ICFs. Roof structures are almost the same attached to ICF walls, chimneys are no problem. I don't know what you mean by "formed steel".

The performance of ICFs are not comparable to wood framing.
Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net
AltonUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2009 11:14 PM
I also wondered what you meant by "formed steel".  My guess is that your are referring to "cold rolled formed steel" such as galvanized steel studs which should be covered by about 2" of extruded polystyrene to reduce heat loss/gain. 
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
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greenfinUser is Offline
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31 Jan 2009 02:49 AM
I am very glad to hear that you are building a home. I am also building a home. I can't answer your question but i want to give you some suggestions.  Roofs are most important part of any house. we have to face a big problem when our roof start leaking. I want to tell you about some products that helps you to solve your roofing problems. In the market, there are many products for roof leaks but i find liquid roof and liquid rubber is the best. The advantages that this liquid rubber coating offers are countless. It is waterproof, has high compatibility with almost all types of surfaces, very flexible and elastic and can withstand a large temperature range from -62 degrees F to 300 degrees F without cracking. So, i would advise you have to use liquid rubber in your roof repair. I think it is the best product.
<a href="http://www.epdmcoatings.com/">Liquid Rubber</a>
terrymodUser is Offline
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31 Jan 2009 09:03 AM
We design - build custom homes. Your design should be the first consideration - not the size. If you can keep your design lines clean without alot build outs, corners, etc - you save on labor and materials. You may wish to avoid large vaulted / volume ceiling areas as they waste a lot of energy.

Study the movement of the sun during each of your seasons - then you can design the appropriate roof overhangs to let sun in in the winter and keep sun out during the summer to reduce solar gain.

Your price points seem low - How much work are you willing to do? Figure site work construction at around 25% of the construction budget, 65- 70% for the cost of the home above the foundation and the remainder are soft costs for interest, utitlities etc while building.

ICF's can be great for a "Do IT Yourselfer" - be sure and exact with your measurements, brace everything more than you think and make the bracing strong so the forms do not move while pouring.

They make a wonderful insulated wall. Other problem is they need to be either furred out or cut grooves for plumbing and electrical. You have to plan ahead for mounting kitchen cabinets as well as window and door headers, etc.

Look into SIPS ( Structural Insulated Panels ) for your walls , roof and floor as well

Good Luck - write me if you have any questions.
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10 Feb 2009 09:18 PM

Joe, My wife and I were at the stage you are at now about two years ago and can assure you there's quite a lot to consider as mentioned above.   Most architects I've talked to recommend evaluating the site first which may lend itself to a more pleasing and affordable design.  We considered SIPs, ICFs and stick construction and decided ICF was for us for similar reasons as you.  We will be building in the Kansas country so sturdy is better. 

We just tweaked our plans in Nov 08 and are just now really ready to start construction. 

You might read about concepts regarding "The Not So Big House" in a series of books written by Sarah Susanka, an architect.  Her website  www.notsobighouse.com

Also, if you're considering DIY or being your own general contractor check out the experiences of others at   www.ownerbuilderbook.com . 

And for a good series of home construction videos start with http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCmu9wQwbx4&feature=channel

Good luck!  Dave

kevin 98User is Offline
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11 Feb 2009 04:19 AM
hi, this is Kevin from Alaska..
and i think this would be one of the talking and discussing like that site.
And this may help them to knew about certain things in detailed...
===========================
Kevin.......

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johncarlUser is Offline
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11 Feb 2009 10:46 AM
Hello Sir

I am a manufacturer for a panelized home building system and we use a steel framed construction with studs every 16" with foam insulation and hardie board on both sides. We can make the panels 4' x 8', 4' x 9' or 4' x 10'.

You can have the roof overhangs cut to fit your needs. In fact the system can be customized to fit your needs. Window and Door Openings are provided as well as electrical chases in the panels..

A good portion of your cost will be the foundation....

Sincerely

John Carl

[email protected]

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