I'm pretty much 100% set on using steel floor joists for the floor levels of a three story house. Can't stand goofy, creaky floors. It makes installing level flooring super-easy I would think as well - so it becomes an easier DIY project to boot. Plus I think the 'Trade Ready' joists will make easy work for MEP. But interior walls would be wood framing. Any issues with this?

Then I got to thinking that a few steel interior walls may be good in a few key areas, like the kitchen cabinet wall. Cabinets are usually a bit of a pain to hang because the wood stud walls typically are bowed, not plumb, etc. So using metal framing would make for an easy DIY installation of kitchen cabinets = saving $$ on installation! But the result is a mish-mash of steel and wood framing. Will it become a compatibility headache?

cjbuild;

you can mix wood and steel framing, but why not go all steel?  also using trade ready floors is no guarantee that you will not have squeaks, make sure you use a good polyurethane adhesive with the plywood

Lt gauge steel framed floors are very reverberant so isolate the ceiling below with resilient channels and also insulate w/ sound batt insulation. Plan the duct runs carefully because there is not really a lot or room for MEP systems. Also choose your floor finishes carefully, soft and or well padded finishes will reduce sound transmission.

Joists do not cause noises. Loose or poorly fastened flooring is the culprit. Glue and screw everything and oversize the joists by at least one size and you will be happier. A layer of OSB behind the drywall is nice for cabinet areas as well.

Brian

What's the cost comparison these days? It seems wood prices are about the same as what we paid in 1970 and steel is again jumping every day.

Posted By FBBP on 14 Feb 2011 09:47 PM
What's the cost comparison these days? It seems wood prices are about the same as what we paid in 1970 and steel is again jumping every day.

Actually steel is about the same as it was 4 years ago, can be framed  with studs@ 24" oc  single top & bottom tracks, while wood is typically 16" oc, with 3 plates.

 Benefits of steel framing

• High Quality Home - precisely manufactured, sustainable engineered material, straight with square corners
• Greater Design Flexibility - highest strength to weight ratio, stronger frame, light weight, greater spans, opening up large spaces inside a home
• Less Waste - steel studs are cut to exact lengths from steel stud machine
• Dimensionally Stable - no shrinkage, no rotting, no warping
• Quality Assured - engineered, controlled workmanship
• Eliminate Insect Damage - mold, termite & carpenter ant proof
• Withstands Wind and Seismic Loads caused by hurricanes and earthquakes
• No costly call-back and adjustments - no nail pops and drywall cracks
• Cleaner Jobsite
• Healthier Living - non-toxic, allergy free, no waste, and recyclable
• Highly Durable Material - no jammed doors and windows, no wavy walls or sagging roof lines
• Fire Safety - does not burn
• Lower Insurance Premiums - fire retardant, withstands high winds, more durable in hurricanes and earthquakes.
• safer electrical systems and safer in electrical storms
• "Greener"   - 100% recyclable and made from 33% recycled steel

"Highly Durable Material - no jammed doors and windows, no wavy walls or sagging roof lines" is one of the biggest reasons i'm leaning toward SIPs + steel (for structure at least) because it cracks me up to see people a pay a fortune for their homes to have them 'shrink and settle' a few years later. Beyond bizarre.

Chris - There is no doubt a lot of plusses for steel over wood, mainly in the area of straight and stable. That said I pay around .27 cents a foot for 2x4 and .66 cents a for for light gauge 3.5" steel stud. I have not priced structural steel stud for some time but I'm sure the heavier gauges have not gotten cheaper. My rebar and metal cladding has also started going up again since last fall. Wood stays the same price for now. 'course price is not the only thing or I would not be able to use ICF;-)

Would tactical use of engineered wood studs, instead of steel, put the price in happy medium between wood and steel?

Posted By FBBP on 15 Feb 2011 10:18 PM
Chris - There is no doubt a lot of plusses for steel over wood, mainly in the area of straight and stable. That said I pay around .27 cents a foot for 2x4 and .66 cents a for for light gauge 3.5" steel stud. I have not priced structural steel stud for some time but I'm sure the heavier gauges have not gotten cheaper. My rebar and metal cladding has also started going up again since last fall. Wood stays the same price for now. 'course price is not the only thing or I would not be able to use ICF;-)

You need a new source for steel studs, we currently pay .28 cents LFT. for 25 ga. steel studs

I strongly agree with you using the metal framing. You do not have to worry about insects infesting your home's foundation and replacing it in a couple of years.

Is anyone here familiar with the best kind of paint to use on a steel surface?

I think that is best answered by a professional paint store. Like one that does industrial stuff.

Not sure what you are trying to do. I use a lot of Rustoleum Truck Bed liner paint on steel. I do a fair amount of welding from wrought iron to structural.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/truck-bed-and-undercoating/truck-bed-coating-spray

I once welded up a salt water tank stand and painted it with this stuff and it took like 3 years of constant salt water to rust. It is a lot in the prep also.

Good Luck.

This is an 9 year old thread resurrected by a spammer (RoundRockPainters).

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