Basement excavation and high water table
Last Post 16 Jun 2014 03:19 PM by BadgerBoilerMN. 17 Replies.
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timberwolf78User is Offline
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08 Jun 2014 03:06 PM
We dug a hole for our basement yesterday. Today, there is water pooling in some areas. It is especially watery with a lot of mud in the trench where walkout frost wall will be. First of all, would there be any issues with soil settling underneath the footings in the future? I will be going to start setting up forms(2x4 with tyvek) for the footings. Are there any tips to work around the water issue? Thanks
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08 Jun 2014 07:50 PM
At this point you should have a good understanding of the soil conditions you need build on, especially compression, seismic, etc. If you don't hire a structural engineer and perhaps a geotech engineer to help also develop the proper drainage plan. No one out here can act as these professionals without seeing the site nor would you want to take advice from anyone other than professionals in this situation.
smartwallUser is Offline
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09 Jun 2014 09:17 AM
You should have at least 4" of stone under the footings with that much water. Also drain the water from the excavation or you will have a problem when you pour
smartwallUser is Offline
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09 Jun 2014 09:33 AM
How wide are your footings? The picture with my post had water running out the back corner . We cut a sump well clear of the frost wall and pumped the site until we poured. A lot of rain didn't help either. The stone was a life saver. I don't pour a foundation without stone under the footings.
jonrUser is Offline
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09 Jun 2014 11:41 AM
I don't know about footings, but in general, a layer of geotextile fabric between soil and stone reduces settling caused by the soil/mud moving up into the stone.
sharterUser is Offline
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09 Jun 2014 01:18 PM
Where I live, water after excavation is expected.

The soil is clay and rock is usually not placed underneath the footings because drain tile is installed on both sides of the perimeter footings that drain into a sump pump pit, which can overflow into a backup pit. The gravel used for fill also aids in the water moving to the pits.

Sometime the initial plumbing work is installed and kept open during construction to help drain the water (city sewer).

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09 Jun 2014 01:56 PM
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09 Jun 2014 02:02 PM
This map gives accurate soil properties at different depths. I ran for two lots I was considering with different map codes on it, one had more rock at 9’ down, other had more clay and sand, does not tell where the water table is though just says past 8’. That be scary if you buy a lot and are close, you may need some major drain plan. I’d think the local well water guys would know more, I'm checking with now before I buy after reading this. I thought it was more like 100-300’ but I dunno. Guess it could be 9’ and your close to bedrock with lots of loam mud in between? I've read of horror stories with septic tanks had to be dug out or drains, flood plains this map tells you if you are in a flood plain too. With that info you go to code to see how much compression it will take. http://websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov/App/HomePage.htm
timberwolf78User is Offline
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09 Jun 2014 03:45 PM
Thanks guys!

For some reason I am unable to see the attachments that you are talking about.

Anyway, the footings are 20" wide and soil is clay. My excavator says that some rock under the footings is not uncommon around here, but I want to confirm this with couple different sources.
I have also dug a couple of pits and rented a trash pump but I have to move it around because the water is still pooled all over the place because of all the mud.
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09 Jun 2014 04:15 PM

Click on this link then start WSS

Try this, below is a sample of a lot I ran Taxonomic Class code 5943 . I'm getting an error right now perhaps they are doing maintenance try tomorrow. Let us know if it is accurate, or If you post or PM me an address I'll run it and post a PDF.

 

5943—Saltcreek and Naron fine sandy loams, 0 to 1 percent slopes
Map Unit Setting
Elevation: 1,150 to 2,430 feet
Mean annual precipitation: 24 to 33 inches
Mean annual air temperature: 55 to 59 degrees F
Frost-free period: 180 to 230 days
Map Unit Composition
Saltcreek and similar soils: 70 percent
Naron and similar soils: 30 percent
Minor components: 0 percent

Description of Saltcreek
Setting
Landform: Dunes on paleoterraces
Down-slope shape: Convex
Across-slope shape: Convex
Parent material: Loamy eolian deposits over loamy alluvium
Typical profile
[b]Ap - 0 to 8 inches: very strongly acid, fine sandy loam
Bt1 - 8 to 15 inches: slightly acid, sandy clay loam
Bt2 - 15 to 26 inches: neutral, sandy clay loam
Bt3 - 26 to 39 inches: neutral, fine sandy loam
2Bt4 - 39 to 56 inches: neutral, silty clay
2Btk1 - 56 to 66 inches: slightly alkaline, silty clay loam
2Btk2 - 66 to 80 inches: moderately alkaline, silty clay[/b]
Properties and qualities
Slope: 0 to 1 percent
Depth to restrictive feature: More than 80 inches
Natural drainage class: Well drained
Capacity of the most limiting layer to transmit water (Ksat):
Moderately low to moderately high (0.06 to 0.20 in/hr)
Depth to water table: More than 80 inches
Frequency of flooding: None
Frequency of ponding: None
Calcium carbonate, maximum in profile: 5 percent
Available water storage in profile: High (about 9.3 inches)
Interpretive groups
Farmland classification: All areas are prime farmland
Land capability classification (irrigated): 2e
Land capability classification (nonirrigated): 2e
Hydrologic Soil Group: C
Ecological site: Sandy (PE 17-20) (R079XY022KS

Description of Naron
Setting
Landform: Dunes on paleoterraces
Down-slope shape: Convex
Across-slope shape: Convex
Parent material: Loamy eolian deposits
Typical profile
[b]Ap - 0 to 9 inches: slightly acid, fine sandy loam
Bt1 - 9 to 16 inches: neutral, loam
Bt2 - 16 to 34 inches: neutral, loam
Bt3 - 34 to 43 inches: neutral, sandy clay loam
BC - 43 to 66 inches: neutral, fine sandy loam
C - 66 to 80 inches: neutral, fine sandy loam[/b]
Depth to restrictive feature: More than 80 inches
Natural drainage class: Well drained
Capacity of the most limiting layer to transmit water (Ksat):
Moderately high to high (0.60 to 2.00 in/hr)
Depth to water table: More than 80 inches
Frequency of flooding: None
Frequency of ponding: None
Calcium carbonate, maximum in profile: 3 percent
Available water storage in profile: High (about 10.0 inches)
Interpretive groups
Farmland classification: All areas are prime farmland
Land capability classification (irrigated): 2e
Land capability classification (nonirrigated): 2e
Hydrologic Soil Group: B
Ecological site: Sandy (PE 17-20) (R079XY022KS
Minor Components
Carbika
Percent of map unit: 0 percent
Landform: Depressions on paleoterraces
Down-slope shape: Concave
Across-slope shape: Concave
Ecological site: Subirrigated (PE 17-20) (R079XY032KS)




jonrUser is Offline
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09 Jun 2014 04:28 PM
That be scary if you buy a lot and are close, you may need some major drain plan.


Or skip the basement and use a FPSF slab on grade.
smartwallUser is Offline
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10 Jun 2014 08:17 AM
Brilliant jonr, your solution is to fill in the hole and install a FPSF. I wish I had thought of that.
TLPUser is Offline
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10 Jun 2014 08:40 AM
Where am I going to drink a cold one and watch the game when the tornado's are screaming by, lol!
timberwolf78User is Offline
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10 Jun 2014 09:10 AM
Posted By smartwall on 10 Jun 2014 08:17 AM
Brilliant jonr, your solution is to fill in the hole and install a FPSF. I wish I had thought of that.


Ha! I had the same reaction to this comment.
jonrUser is Offline
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10 Jun 2014 11:00 AM
That be scary if you buy a lot and are close, you may need some major drain plan.
Or skip the basement and use a FPSF slab on grade.
Brilliant jonr, your solution is to fill in the hole and install a FPSF. I wish I had thought of that.


Do you think I could possibly have been referring to the case I quoted (no hole yet)?
smartwallUser is Offline
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11 Jun 2014 08:40 AM
Since Timberwolf's first line was that he dug the hole yesterday, I thought you wanted to fill it in. Something I hadn't thought to do. Since every time a question is asked about a basement you come up with the same FPSF suggestion I thought you were answering the original post. Yenta
JellyUser is Offline
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15 Jun 2014 10:55 AM
Posted By smartwall on 11 Jun 2014 08:40 AM
... Yenta

wow, rough crowd in here
BadgerBoilerMNUser is Offline
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16 Jun 2014 03:19 PM
Posted By smartwall on 10 Jun 2014 08:17 AM
Brilliant jonr, your solution is to fill in the hole and install a FPSF. I wish I had thought of that.


'Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.' Leonardo da Vinci
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