Is anyone familiar with this product? They are manufactured in central Fl. They attach under the top of the trusses leaving a channel for ventilation and the attic is sealed tight at this plane. It is foil faced eps and the claim is an R38 system value for their 2" product. Sounds great and if it works I think I would prefer this to spray foam. Does anyone know if it works or not? greenstarpanels.com Thanks for your help

Two things:
The technical details of the product state this :"PRODUCT. The EPS insulation modeled has a density of 1.0 lb/ft3 and an R-Value of R-3.85 per inch."
So wherever you saw the R-38, it is not supported by the manufacturer. Their statement of 3.85/inch is valid, and will give you an R value of 7.7.

If you look at the install shown on the FOX video, it is very good job -all the joints are well sealed and foamed. It is probably critical to have the same level of quality for the product to work.

This product is a radiant barrier with a low level of insulation. Does it work? I live in the north, so I really don't know, but it looks like it might work - it is reflective, there is an air space, and the heat has a place to exit the building, so maybe it will, IF it is installed well. Is it R-38? Not even close.

Two things:
The technical details of the product state this :"PRODUCT. The EPS insulation modeled has a density of 1.0 lb/ft3 and an R-Value of R-3.85 per inch."
So wherever you saw the R-38, it is not supported by the manufacturer. Their statement of 3.85/inch is valid, and will give you an R value of 7.7.

If you look at the install shown on the FOX video, it is very good job -all the joints are well sealed and foamed. It is probably critical to have the same level of quality for the product to work.

This product is a radiant barrier with a low level of insulation. Does it work? I live in the north, so I really don't know, but it looks like it might work - it is reflective, there is an air space, and the heat has a place to exit the building, so maybe it will, IF it is installed well. Is it R-38? Not even close.

If you click on products, it states the 2" product has an "effective" R value of 38. I am not sure what this means, I am assuming the Air gap, radiant barrier and foam is somehow = to maybe R38 equivalent of spray foam?

Effective R-value does not mean much. I do not think it is appropriate to include any value from radiant films into computing R-value.

In a hot climate a radiant barrier is equivalent to reducing cooling load by 5 to 10% during a specific time frame. This is equivalent to R-10 or less for part of the day only. This is only when the sun is directly shinning on the roof, a 2 inch air gap exists on both sides of the barrier and the heat in the gap is ventilated away from the building. This is by keeping the inner surface of the roof which radiates toward the insulation at a lower temperature. Its value is very condition specific. For more specific information you can go to http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/radiant-barriers or building sciences. Do not get your information from the seller of radiant barrier material its benefits will be exaggerated at best.

This is not to say it is not a good Idea to use. But lets be real. the best radiant barrier is the shinny side of aluminum foil. You can buy aluminum foil for 5 cents a square foot. The next best radiant barrier is coated Mylar film at about 10 cents a foot. It is tougher than Al foil. Both are above 90% reflective. 5 cents a foot is a good investment in radiant barrier material in most climates. The radiant barrier hype to invest substantially more than that in the radiant material is hype if you plan on putting in to code required insulation any way. The code officials will not give the radiant barrier insulation credit in excess of R-1 beyond its actual conductive rating. Code insulation values are for conductive heat resistance not radiant.

Brian