1985 vintage waterfront house - tearing out thermo-ply / #15 / 4"cedar lap and replacing windows. Typical contractor here is coming back with 5/8" CDX to build up the walls for wind code, then #30, and Hardiplank. I would love more of an air gap. Am I crazy? Hardi has to be nailed every 6 inches (making a furring strip rainscreen a problem) to pass wind inspection. I'm concerned about the top, inside edge of each lap grinding into the felt over the years, and the lack of a capillary break along that line. I'm considering adding a 2" wide strip of EPDM tape under the felt along these edgelines to cushion and create a hydrophobic barrier along that edge, and seal around nails. Also considering MTI 2" wide 1/8" thick "corrugated lath strips" along those nailing lines, for an actual air gap, and adding top and bottom venting. Maybe I should do both. Thoughts?

Wondering how to detail the bottom of the walls where the bottom of wall terminates into a soffit overhang 11 feet in the air. Currently the bottom of the cedar is sealed to the soffit. I think the inside edge of my sheath would now be sealed at the soffit, some flashed plastic vent solution would be fixed to the sheath, and then the felt would extend to the bottom of the vent flashing, and the Corrugated spacer material would go over the felt, but thinking the starter course for the shingle siding should extend down an inch (more?) below the vent edge to provide additional weatherization protection to the entire sheath / soffit joint system.

The Tamlyn VST38 CR Strips at 3/8" (run horizontal rather than vertical due to windstorm nailing) look like a good (local) alternative to the MTI lath strips, although I am not sure how much thickness I can get away with due to wind code compliance. Also could pair with their PVC top and bottom vents.

We've used a roll product from Delta for a rain screen. Quick install compared to furring.