ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 24 Aug 2010 09:04 PM |
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I know of two basic types; the most popular I think is the type that uses a cementitious base-coat and fiber lath. The finish coat is acrylic usually with aggregate and there is a wide variety of textures and colors. We just completed our first installation of this type, we used Dryvit.
The other system uses a cementitious base-coat and fiber lath and a cementitious finish coat that is sprayed on and often knocked down. This is more durable but has less variety.
Do I have that right? |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 28 Aug 2010 08:55 AM |
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Okay, since everyone jumped in on that question, I have more.
I do not want bands around my nailer flange windows and prehung doors. All installation instructions I have seen have bands to create a deep caulk-able joint between the window/door and coating, for expansion and contraction. How can I eliminate the bands? |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4324
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| 28 Aug 2010 09:16 AM |
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Brad; use a casing bead to stop stucco just short of your door and window frames for a caulk-able joint  |
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 28 Aug 2010 09:22 AM |
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If it was traditional stucco, I could use a casing bead, but this will be a synthetic system with a thickness of 3/16" or less. |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 28 Aug 2010 09:42 AM |
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The measurement related to the thickness, must be called the "ground", I found a vinyl casing bead with a ground of 1/4" but that is too much. Also the nailer flange and SAF (self-adhesive flashing) is too thick to be covered by the coating, so I am thinking of recessing flange, but that does not solve the caulk-able joint issue. |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4324
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| 28 Aug 2010 12:52 PM |
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Posted By ICFconstruction on 28 Aug 2010 09:22 AM
If it was traditional stucco, I could use a casing bead, but this will be a synthetic system with a thickness of 3/16" or less. I don't think you will see the 1/16" difference |
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 28 Aug 2010 03:36 PM |
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It's the flange and SAF that is and issue and I think I over estimated with 3/16", more like an 1/8". But I will do some checking. But will I get cracking at the outside edge for the flange? |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4324
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| 28 Aug 2010 05:37 PM |
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Brad;
most synthetic systems utilize a fibermesh mat that would bridge across nail fin |
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 30 Aug 2010 06:55 AM |
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Chris, I think you are right. Unfortunately I have not found that kind of detail included with a manufactures details and I bet if something did happen at the junction no warranty would cover it. |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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JRinWV
New Member
Posts:8
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| 06 Sep 2010 08:55 PM |
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Brad,
A Warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on. So do it right (the best you can) and expect the end result to be OK.
Just my experience with cars, expensive tools, windows, siding, Dryvit, you name it. The roofers are a whole 'nother company, no warranty since the original company is gone now, but they come out and fix minor problems really cheaply (not free, just inexpensively), branch fell, hole in rubber, they fixed it, $125.
Best you can hope for.
JR |
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Roundeye
New Member
Posts:44
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| 27 Dec 2010 07:23 PM |
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Posted By ICFconstruction on 28 Aug 2010 09:22 AM
If it was traditional stucco, I could use a casing bead, but this will be a synthetic system with a thickness of 3/16" or less. Anyone with a link to this type of casing? I'm putting in casement windows in an icf structure and having a heck of a time figuring out how to waterproof/seal/stucco etc.  |
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| I love any new challenges and ideas. Briing it! |
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ICFconstruction
Veteran Member
Posts:1323
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| 27 Dec 2010 08:26 PM |
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Maybe we could just put a stop in 3/16" thick and remove it after the finish is applied? |
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| Brad Kvanbek - ICFconstruction.net |
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