I am currently in the process of obtaining bids on different framing systems, but my plans were originally drawn for a metal barn building to be bricked with the full 5" limestone.  I can't get a good answer from anywhere as to the correct way to add limestone to a metal barn building.  Some people say to brick over the sheet metal with ties and screws and others say to not buy the sheet metal envelope, but only the red iron frame and then add hardiboard, wall ties and wire.

If I go with the metal barn, I will use metal to frame it out and icynene low density to insulate.  I am concerned about the vapor barrier and the flow of moisture as concerns the limestone brick.  I don't want it to break down over the years.

I live in Texas which is a mixture of humid/hot and gets cold & wet in the winter. 

Can someone please help me with the correct way to add limestone to this type of structure?

Thanks,
Leslee

Since no one has answered, I will share my thoughts about your topic.

As you probably know, a heavy stone or brick veneer requires a continuous footing for support. In either case, a well ventilated cavity between the veneer and siding is required to permit drying.

The spacing of the “red iron” supports is designed to go with the metal siding. If you change to hardiboard or other skin, I suspect additional supports will be required.

I have no first hand experience with metal barn buildings, but I think they are rather flexible. I suspect a well-built 5” stone wall is probably stiffer (until it cracks) than the metal siding and underlying structure. We generally try to keep deflections in the range of L/360 to L/500 (L = span) to prevent cosmetic cracking. You should discuss this with the barn designer to see if your idea is compatible from a movement and deflection standpoint. Intuitively, I think it will work although I would expect some cracking in joints over time.

To me, hardiboard vs. metal siding is primarily an economic issue with the exception of a concern about corrosion.

With the metal siding acting as a water and vapor barrier, only open cell insulation should be used with no other vapor barrier. If the space will be air conditioned, having an exterior vapor barrier in a hot humid climate is OK. 

The biggest concern I about using metal siding in this application is corrosion. The cavity will be humid much of the time which increases the corrosion potential. I suspect the fastener holes through the siding and siding edges will be the worst corrosion points followed by the fasteners themselves.  Please note this is a concern, not a condemnation.  I do not know if there are any code issues involved here. This would also be question for the barn designer.

Hopefully others with some first hand knowlege can add to this.

Bruce

Our barn has a red iron frame, the steel siding starts at the top of a 16" high X 8" wide concrete kneewall. We used a masonry trim at the base of the steel siding, then a metal lath over the concrete to which 16" quartzite tile were laid. Door jambs are trimmed with cedar over 30# felt between the metal trim, red iron & concrete.

I would not use masonry facade on steel. Hope this helps.

Sabaya

Our barn has a red iron frame, the steel siding starts at the top of a 16" high X 8" wide concrete kneewall. We used a masonry trim at the base of the steel siding, then a metal lath over the concrete to which 16" quartzite tiles were laid. Door jambs are trimmed with cedar over 30# felt between the metal trim, red iron & concrete.

I would not use masonry facade on steel. Hope this helps.

Sabaya

Build the metal building complete with it's metal siding first. The edge of your foundation must extend/project out and be designed to support the masonry veneer. Screw brick tabs to the metal siding. leave a 1" gap between the metal siding & the masonry veneer. Any differences in thermal expansion between the masonry veneer and the metal siding will be absorbed by the brick ties. If you are in a high wind zone like on the coast consult an engineer.