Hi, I'm in the middle of a bunch of renos and about to order materials. My plan is to excavate to the footings and add 6" of EPS foam to the foundation up to and above the subfloor. Then remove the alum siding and add 4" of EPS to the existing 2x4 exterior wall. I think it would be easiest to do hardiboard siding myself (although I'm certainly open to stucco), and so at first I thought it would be best to strap out the foam for securing the siding. Then I started worrying about how to fasten the foam. With 4" of foam and half an inch of OSB, I'd need pretty long screws to make it into the studs AND with the weight of the Hardiboard, would it be enough to hold the strapping? (Strapping could be 1x4, or 2x4s) Or might it be possible to glue the EPS to the existing OSB, and then glue more OSB to the EPS? Obviously it wouldn't be possible to have any vacuum sealing going on, but it won't really be structural either. I'm going to replace all the windows and doors, but have them recessed back to the original walls. Advice?

have a look at this. I think it will answer all your questions

http://www.cchrc.org/docs/b...Manual.pdf


good luck,
Adi

Nolan,

Here's more info if you haven't already have seen these:

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...rofits

http://www.interioralaskabuilders.c...teWall.pdf

Thanks a ton guys, this was very helpful, and reassuring - and surprisingly very similar to what I initially designed. A couple of thoughts: Because this is a retrofit, I do not have raised heel trusses. I had planned to take the EPS as high as I could (while still allowing an air space at the top) but there's no way I can A) attach the vapour barrier to the ceiling vapour barrier (the house is 32 years old so I say that loosely - think ceran wrap) or B) get a good depth of insulation directly over the stud wall.

I am also anxious about missing with the screws because I won't be able to spray it from the inside if I do (which is why I was considering trying to use adhesive instead of screws). Do you guys have any experience drilling through EPS? Would I be able to feel whether it has sunk into the stud or not?

I live in Calgary, AB - we have strange weather patterns including chinooks, so we have very hot summers and very cold, but inconsistent winters (i.e. -32 C one week to +9 C the next in January - heck even the next day) but most importantly we're dry (decks shrink here, they don't expand).

They kept using Alaska as an example. Just based on government incentives I planned on using 6" of EPS against my foundation and 4" against my 2x4 framed exteriors. Should I actually do 6" for the whole thing? Also, the links never went into any detail for attachment methods for EPS against foundation walls. Do I just use foam against the footing and maybe some PL300 against the concrete?

Is there any advantage I may not have thought of going with Stucco vs Hardiplank with the Remote style system?

I posted this elsewhere, but I am still having problems getting the real deal with HRVs (which are necessary for retrofitting and getting it this tight). I was told since I have a HE furnace, I already have mechanical ventilation and just need to wire it to bathroom fans to turn on while they are exhausting and perhaps also to a timer. I still would actually prefer an HRV to recover heat from bathroom fans, but was told I can't because of the bacteria and humidity of bathroom air. I thought that was the whole point of HRVs?

And to add one more question: we had a HE (alleged) wood stove installed (Regency Hearth Heater) but it doesn't have a direct source of air from outside... It's in the lower (not lowest) level of a 4 level split and we've had a lot of problems with getting the air movement up the flue (also they got rid of the flue control when they installed it), especially when it's really cold. They ran their venting inside the existing venting, which just exits the house right away and travels up, beside the house, going through the roof overhang and above the roof. So obviously it is not very warm. Someone suggested framing around their venting so that it is warmer. (They also suggested checking to see if they insulated around the new venting inside the old - they didn't so I stuffed ROXUL around it at the top). Thoughts?

I'm in Ottawa ON. and have used an HRV system for the entire time I have lived in my present home, 23 years. I replaced it about 5 years ago with the same make but a newer model, more options. It exhausts/vents from the three bathrooms, laundry and kitchen. I do not have another exhaust fan in the bathrooms or house for that matter, and have not had a problem with mold or moisture in the house or HRV. The house is super insulated and passive solar. I do use a high efficeincy wood stove in the main living area of the ground floor with a catalytic combuster which does hold the heat in the house over night on those -30C nights, it retains a very slow burn and I do not supply fresh air directly to the stove. The chimney I would think is the problem, mine is an interior chimney and keeps relatively warm throughout the burn cycle, it's an ISO KEARN, I have had no issues with it either. I hope there are experts on this forum that are more knowledgeable, that can help with your issues and answer you questions better.

John

That would be ISOKERN, sorry for the mispelling!

John

Thanks JohnyH - what kind of HRV do you have?
(I had to use an insert woodstove into an existing fireplace so I couldn't go with a masonry)

I'm Using a Lifebreath and have had no issues.

John