Hello:

My friend and I are about to start the 2x6 wall framing on a 30' x 40' house.

My concern is that the wall sections will be too heavy for us to raise.

My question: Is there a 'best practices' method for determining where to break the walls into smaller sections, for 2 people to handle?

Most importantly, are there certain places where we should * NEVER * split the walls?

Thanks for any advice on this topic.

Rob.

Most framers around here use 16' long lumber for top and bottom plates, so you should have a natural break at 16', another at 32', and another 8' section.

Any way you split it, be sure to lay a bead of acoustic sealant caulk or can-foam under the bottom plate just before you tip it up, for the best possible air-seal.

Thanks people! :)

Just one last question, I hope, on wall framing:

Should I continue the bottom plate across my door openings and cut them out after the wall is raised?

Thanks,

Rob.

Posted By robert.thompson on 17 Jun 2013 09:44 AM

Just one last question, I hope, on wall framing:

Should I continue the bottom plate across my door openings and cut them out after the wall is raised?

Yes.  Most definitely.  Helps keep the wall straight.  Also, don't install your jack studs until after the wall is up.  That way you can use your circular saw to cut out the bottom plate (cut 1-1/2" inside the king stud), and you can set a nail/screw through the bottom plate right under the jack stud.

Update:

All the walls are framed, sheathed (OSB) and raised!

With the help of three 'wall jacks', three of us were able to raise the 46 foot OSB sheathed 2x6 (16" oc) wall (with all LVL headers installed and openings fully framed) with not much problem at all - amazing! The rest of the walls (the longest was 30 feet) were raised by 2 of us using 2 wall jacks - amazing!

Some pictures here.

Now we are waiting for delivery of the trusses on Tuesday.

Rob.

Generally avoid caulk or foam for air sealing of wood and use rubber gaskets or high quality tape.