I know its been covered somewhere here (probably several times) so I won't ask for a discussion, just a referral to a link or links that cover..

- how to trim out window and door casings to accommodate additional foam insulation (in my case 3")
- how to detail additional foam insulation (in my case EPS) at footing and at eves
- how to attach (in my case vinyl) siding corners trim at building corners that are now 3" (or more in other cases) away laterally from the framing.. eg; there is no target wood frame under the edges to attach corner trim to.

I am just a Canuck with limited building experiance but lots of ambition   and a visual learner so any links to pictures or videos would be very helpful.

Thanks

Posted By kenora on 07 Feb 2014 07:08 PM
I know its been covered somewhere here (probably several times) so I won't ask for a discussion, just a referral to a link or links that cover..

- how to trim out window and door casings to accommodate additional foam insulation (in my case 3")
- how to detail additional foam insulation (in my case EPS) at footing and at eves
- how to attach (in my case vinyl) siding corners trim at building corners that are now 3" (or more in other cases) away laterally from the framing.. eg; there is no target wood frame under the edges to attach corner trim to.

I am just a Canuck with limited building experiance but lots of ambition   and a visual learner so any links to pictures or videos would be very helpful.

Thanks

kenora - here is one way to do it.

Thanks....just what I was hoping for

This goes along with a question I was getting ready to post; so I'll just add it here.  In this same scenario, how do you go about the flashing detail ABOVE the window? 

When flashing windows/patio doors in the past (no foam or furring strips), I've cut and folded the house wrap around the sides/bottom of the opening and taped the house wrap up out of the way at the top.  Once the window is in (I coat the back of the nailing flange with sealant first, BTW), I use peel and stick over the nailing flange at the bottom, then up both sides, then across the top extending a few inches beyond the side pieces.  THEN, I fold the house wrap down at the top and seam tape it over the peel and stick.  Obviously this cannot be done when there are furring strips over the house wrap; so what is the approach?  Seems like if water gets back to the house wrap from above the window, it's going to run down to the horizontal furring strip above the window and possibly get back behind everything.  You can put sealant on the back of the horizontal furring strips; but I don't like to rely soley on sealant for water proofing.

Above the window would be similair to the siding to stucco detail except that you use two 90º bends in the drip flashing so that it comes over the window moulding and down 3/8" on the face to make sure the water drips clear of the window.

I would not use peel and stick OVER the bottom flange. It defeats the above always over rule. Build a proper sill flashing with peel and stick or any of the commercially available sill pans, place the window and then do the sides so that they overlap the sill flashing.

Posted By FBBP on 13 Feb 2014 06:44 PM
I would not use peel and stick OVER the bottom flange. It defeats the above always over rule. Build a proper sill flashing with peel and stick or any of the commercially available sill pans, place the window and then do the sides so that they overlap the sill flashing.

Yeah, having read that, that is the way I've done it in the past... just been awhile.  Gotta give the water a place to drain out of the bottom just in case.



Posted By FBBP on 13 Feb 2014 06:44 PM Above the window would be similair to the siding to stucco detail except that you use two 90º bends in the drip flashing so that it comes over the window moulding and down 3/8" on the face to make sure the water drips clear of the window.


So the upper part of the drip flashing is still sitting on the outside of the housewrap?  Or do you cut a slit in the house wrap and slide the drip flashing up under it and tape it?  Trying to figure out how to make any water running down from above the window naturally flow out over the window without relying on tapes or sealant.  It's easy when the window is secured to the OSB; but the furring strips spacing the window out is messing with me.

***So the upper part of the drip flashing is STILL sitting on the outside of the house wrap? Or do you cut a slit in the house wrap and slide the drip flashing up under it and tape it? Trying to figure out how to make any water running down from above the window naturally flow out over the window without relying on tapes or sealant. It's easy when the window is secured to the OSB; but the furring strips spacing the window out is messing with me.***

Not. Above always over!! If the house wrap starts above the flashing (and it almost always does) then it goes OVER the flashing.

Yes, you can slit the HW but it always makes you wonder about those corners, right? Sometime the simplest is to tape the main HW layer to the nail flange, then set the flashing and then place another piece of HW over the flashing so that there is about 6" of side yard on each end of the flashing and run this second layer up to the soffit or the next HW lap.

If you look at older houses, there was almost never a situation where a window was not covered by a roofline. This gave the window both moisture and solar protection and there really wasn't a need to have a flashing at the top of the window. In some of todays designs, where the window sits in the middle of nowhere, it is extremely important that this detail is done correct, like you say, "make any water running down." So if you place the HW, straps and then window, you need to place a strap over the window opening (horizontally), then wrap over this strap, place the window and drip and then place second house wrap, prior to completing the strapping above the window. This way the strap at the opening is covered with wrap but the rest of the house has exposed wrap. As at this area, the wrap encounters a number of sharp corners, you may want to use something heavier or maybe a piece of peel and stick to soften the corners.

If you want to place the windows prior to doing all the strapping etc, strap four sides of each opening, wrap strips of wrap over the strap and into the opening and place the window. When you go to complete the wall, install the wrap and tape it to the strips of previously placed wrap at each opening and then place the rest of the strapping.

Remember that the rain screen gap should continue up into the soffit so that it vents at the top and drains at the bottom. If you have large windows, leave some gaps in the vertical strapping, right above and below the windows, so that the air can move side ways into and out of the areas above and below the windows from adjacent bays that run all the way from top to bottom. In other words, make sure there is an air path in each bay of strapping.