Sealing service penetrations
Last Post 11 Dec 2006 10:13 PM by ICFfam. 9 Replies.
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05 Dec 2006 03:07 PM

My foundation walls are ICF.  I have used the Platon dimple fabric to cover the walls.  Foundation is covered to protect against frost, but am now at a point where I need to backfill further and therefore cover my service penetrations.  All penetrations have all been made using sch 40 PVC and are typically flush with the outside edge of the foam wall, though a few extend a few inches out.  Do I just cut an ample sized hole in the dimple fabric to allow my service through and then seal it up with spray foam as was suggested by my ICF supplier or should I be doing something a bit more elaborate?

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06 Dec 2006 05:12 AM
Even though you have made these penetrations as described are you going thru these penetrations with smaller pipes, or are these the actual final penetrations. Either way when penetration sleeves are complete take a piece of peel and stick around 12" x 12" and split from bottom up to the center with backing still attached. Next rough cut a hole 1" smaller than your penetration size using the end of your vertical slit as center point and then peel release of and install p&s with slit down over penetration push it back to the wall and seal it to the platon. Make sure you press every sq. inch of it to the platon with either a Formica roller or a small block of wood. You can also do this first upside down with the 12" piece and right side up with a larger one.
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06 Dec 2006 09:39 AM
I am going through these penetrations with smaller pipes. Just to confirm - the P&S should be placed over (outside of) the platon and not up against the foam itself and that installing two layers, one with slit from the bottom up to the center and a larger one with slit from the top down to the center is the way to go? Any need to prime whatever the p&s is supposed to stick to (the foam or platon) first?
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06 Dec 2006 11:07 AM
I have always been taught by the ol'timers that if you didn't want a leak...........don't have any penetrations below grade.

Foam will not waterproof your penetration. You will need to use some type of silicone that will last forever!

Next time bring your utilities in above grade if possible.
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06 Dec 2006 07:50 PM
If the actual service pipes are smaller fill the void created with a non shrink grout. As far as the P&S goes do just the opposite as your reply. Small piece first slit top down: larger piece second slit bottom up. They also make a mastic specifically for this application. What brand of P&S are you using?
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07 Dec 2006 11:43 PM
I'm using ARXX's P&S.
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07 Dec 2006 11:46 PM
Can you provide brand names of non-shrink grout and the mastic, as well as possible places to pick these materials up? The local lumberyard folk just look at me like I'm an idiot when I ask for this sort of thing. Invariably, they suggest a silicone caulk. It would seem that that wouldn't last long enough or be able to withstand hydrostatic pressure (not that I should have any), but perhaps I am mistaken.
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08 Dec 2006 08:37 AM
Quickcrete makes about 4 different types in a 1 gal. yellow bucket. I've never seen a lumberyard that didn't carry the product.
Water stop is probably the best choice, most plumbers and well drillers seal pipes this way. The product hardens fast so be prepared before you mix. As far as the P&S goes if it has blue elephants use primer!
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11 Dec 2006 05:03 PM
You have another advantage of built in drain screen( the little vertical lines in the foam) because you choose to build with a form like ARXX.
I know of many 100's of basements that are just covered with 6mil plastic and stay dry because of the drain screen and sandy soil.
Your choice in ICF makes a differance.
Eldon Howe
Eldon Howe<br>Howe Construction

[email protected]

<br><br>Total Concrete Homes provide positive cash flow , DAY ONE .
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11 Dec 2006 10:13 PM
I'm actually using the IntegraSpec form, but agree that the integrated channels would allow the water a place to drain if the dimple board for some reason wasn't enough.
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