bjherron
New Member
Posts:16
 |
| 23 Jul 2007 10:08 AM |
|
has anyone found a way to utilize the scraps of cut-up styrofoam from ICF forms for insulation in the attic or some other purpose... or does everyone just trash them.
Thanks,
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
woulfcc
Basic Member
Posts:147
|
| 23 Jul 2007 11:52 AM |
|
What scrap?
We use almost every piece in door and window bucks to keep the thermal envelope around the concrete.
You can do this with almost any block and save the wood bracing for the next door or window.
We built a basement and had 2- 35 gal bags (not even full) of foam scrap on the job.
I wish I could get a pic. on here and show you. |
|
| Changing How the World BUILDS!<br>Green , Done , Easy<br>Woulf c.c. of Wisconsin |
|
|
bjherron
New Member
Posts:16
|
| 23 Jul 2007 02:27 PM |
|
On a 2600 SQ/FT basement with 10 outside corners and 6 inside corners there's only a few bags of scraps, but I know by the time we have the main floor done there may be up to 6-10 bags. |
|
|
|
|
cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4327
|
| 23 Jul 2007 04:42 PM |
|
Brian;
There are some places that recylcle EPS via regrinding and reinstitute the product into a poorer quality of foam. To be used as packing, bead board insulation and some lesser quality SIPs
Which is a good question to ask the SIPs Mfg.s - "do they use re-grind foam ?" Re-grind is not as good structurally |
|
| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
|
|
ICF372
Basic Member
Posts:111
|
| 24 Jul 2007 07:51 AM |
|
Right on Scott,
We also use scraps in windows and doors. Run the plastic studs horizontal and you will have built in nailers every 8" .
The trick is to leave just the right amout of plastic tie protruding, so as to cast into the concrete without interfering with the reinforcing steel or causing a void in the concrete wall. You will need at least 1" clearance away from the steel anyway. knockdown forms with dovetailed foam or a plastic track work a little easier . |
|
Eldon Howe<br>Howe Construction
[email protected]
<br><br>Total Concrete Homes provide positive cash flow , DAY ONE . |
|
|
dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
|
| 24 Jul 2007 10:19 AM |
|
Posted By ICF372 on 07/24/2007 7:51 AM Right on Scott,
We also use scraps in windows and doors. Run the plastic studs horizontal and you will have built in nailers every 8" .
The trick is to leave just the right amout of plastic tie protruding, so as to cast into the concrete without interfering with the reinforcing steel or causing a void in the concrete wall. You will need at least 1" clearance away from the steel anyway. knockdown forms with dovetailed foam or a plastic track work a little easier . Do you by chance have any photos or illustrations of how you do this? I'm intrigued. The idea of horizontal nailers every few inches is appealing enough I may consider cutting up full length blocks just for this purpose! I take it you need to add plenty of plywood, or whatever, around the openings to keep all the block pieces stable for the pour. Now, if we could the block mfrs to embed horizontal nailers into their corner blocks for fastening corner trim one of last problem areas of ICF, as I see it, would be gone. |
|
| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
|
|
dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
|
| 24 Jul 2007 10:27 AM |
|
Posted By woulfcc on 07/23/2007 11:52 AM
What scrap?
We use almost every piece in door and window bucks to keep the thermal envelope around the concrete.
What, exactly, do you mean by this, and how do you do it? Are you saying you don't have permanently installed wood or vinyl bucks? Or do you have foam behind the buck in the concrete cavity?
You can do this with almost any block and save the wood bracing for the next door or window.
Again, exactly what do you? I'm having a hard time visualizing saving the wood bracing for the next door or window. Are you talking the same house, or the next house?
|
|
| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
|
|
woulfcc
Basic Member
Posts:147
|
| 24 Jul 2007 08:39 PM |
|
Email me for the pictures
This can be done with almost any block.
For windows and doors you cut the block to the wall thickness (say 6”) now cut the tie in the center. You now have 2 window bucks the tie will cast in the concrete and hold it after the concrete is hard. The nailing strip is where you can install your window to and foam it with low ex foam (glue) it in.
We use a wood buck with temp. spreaders to hold the sides from pushing in and a wood header with the same foam bucks in the header cavity.
when you pour the sill under the window we leave it open and fill and vibe it 2" low and wet set the sill with the same scrap foam block.
I like to use the vibrator when wet setting the sill (just set it on the sill buck and push down until it is where you want it) real easy to do.
I you need more strength add a ¾" by 11" rip of plywood buck to the hinge side of you doors. You can tapcon it but I have not found it at all necessary. Just remember to add ¾” to your R.O. or 1-1/2 “ if you do both sides.
The foam buck gives you a thermal seal to your concrete Insulating it inside and out unlike wood. We also do the header and sill the same way.
|
|
| Changing How the World BUILDS!<br>Green , Done , Easy<br>Woulf c.c. of Wisconsin |
|
|
icfblocks
Basic Member
Posts:202
|
| 24 Jul 2007 09:17 PM |
|
Scott,
I just got through doing an entire house using this method. Glued in the windows with EnerBond. House will be trimmed with foam and stuccoed. Wasn't the same block we used on the motel. Almost Any block will work. |
|
| Thanks,<br>Tom<br>www.advbuildingtech.com |
|
|
ICF372
Basic Member
Posts:111
|
| 25 Jul 2007 12:21 AM |
|
I'll try to add a photo of this process. In this case IntegraSpec forms were used. They have a foam buck that just locks into the foam, quite often no additional bracing is needed. But only on the vertical sides. The header will need to supported "always a good idea". The scrape in this case is used in only the header and sills.
My photos are to big Scott or Tom may have a photo of this . |
|
Eldon Howe<br>Howe Construction
[email protected]
<br><br>Total Concrete Homes provide positive cash flow , DAY ONE . |
|
|
dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
|
| 25 Jul 2007 12:50 AM |
|
Posted By woulfcc on 07/24/2007 8:39 PM
Email me for the pictures
Email sent via profile link. This idea looks very interesting indeed. Are the windows fastened to the wall by gluing the nail fins to the outside, or how? When I first read your earlier description I thought the horizontal plastic studs were on the inside and outside faces of the wall, but they are on the inside perimeter of the window, right? Do you really get to make use of the plastic studs then, and how? I guess, really, what is puzzling me the most is what sort of solid material is the window fastened to? On the face of it, fastening the window only to foam seems weak, but maybe not.
|
|
| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
|
|
ICF372
Basic Member
Posts:111
|
| 25 Jul 2007 04:33 AM |
|
Go to IntegraSpec's web site and have a look at the slide show Byrne Pointe. A very good slide show on window attachment. The plastic stud flange is what your are screwing to.
And most plastic ties on the market have a stronger screw pull out, than a wood stud has in nail pull out strenght. |
|
Eldon Howe<br>Howe Construction
[email protected]
<br><br>Total Concrete Homes provide positive cash flow , DAY ONE . |
|
|
Cattail Bill
Basic Member
Posts:206
|
| 30 Jul 2007 03:34 PM |
|
we also have very little scrap when completeing a job the last job was 36 corners and 59 windows not including the door openings, the total scrap left was two 50 gal contractor bags which was donated to a handicap center for making crafts.
Most places nation wide have handicap centers that are always looking for donations and you could also ask the art department at your local school. |
|
|
|
|