Brian,

Because of all of the issuses that have been created by changing from ICF to framing, I think the simplest solution is to reframe to a smaller opening and call it good. IF not you need to furr out the stick built wall to match the ICF wall.

ICF Contractor

I believe I can furr out the 2X6 framed side to match the inside face of the ICF. However, the ICF is approximately 1"-1.5" further inside the garage from where the jamb ends. Would that work ok?

If I put up a 2X12 across the inside lintel on the 2X6 wall, do I also need to match the face of the ICF wall at the side? Or can the 2X12 be put up against the 2X6 studs? Note - the 2X12 would cover the steel beam and provide a mounting surface.

Use 2x12 on the inside of the lintel, use 2x6 on the inside face of the ICF and framed wall. All must be flush or on the same plane. When the garage door is finished have your local aluminium guy come in and cap the frame to give it a finished look.

This should have been detailed for you before building it :-) Did you have the lintel prepunched/predrilled to attach a 2x buck? Was the lintel placed high enough so you can build down to the 8' rough hgt? Did they provide you with any attachment for the ICF side buck?

I guess you're trying to finish something that should have been planned out so as to not cause you so much grief and now you're playing Mr. Fixit. Your time could have been used for other things but be assured it can be done, and the answers above will work for you

To simplify trimming, make your buck system full depth for the widest part of the wall, typically the ICF wall, then just pad out the 2x6 wall in the corner and the wall appears the same thickness on both sides! Remember, the interior plane needs to be the same for the door track on both sides, I'm not sure how much room you have at the head, but your door guy can help clarify this for you!

My experience with garage door installers was less than stellar. I think they have a set way to install the door track and can't visualize anything different.

Basically, what I learned is this. You need to have a good solid mounting surface extending from about 2" to 4 or more inches around the <<< finished >>> opening, not rough opening, with the surface at the sides extending above the door opening no less than about 15". My installer used 2" long lag screws so a single thickness of 2x lumber directly over concrete isn't thick enough. I had a double 2 x 6 inset into the ICF form at the sides. I had an ICFVL connector plate in the lintel to anchor the center mount of the torsion spring. The installer had trouble comprehending the concept of using a metal plate with the appropriate screws to anchor the spring mount, instead of lag screws into wood, but it worked.

My door track was installed over the finished sheet rock on the wall so the sheet rock had to have a solid support under it. An alternate method for attaching the track would be to use Red Devil drop in anchors in the concrete with 3/8" machine screws fastening the track brackets. But the surface under the bracket has to be solid.

There's two ways to install the tracks. First is on a 2 x 6 jamb that is attached the the wall frame over the sheet rock. This is the method shown in manufacturer's installation instructions. The other way is to fasten the track directly over the sheet rock. This latter method gives a flat wall surface all the way to the door opening. That's the way my door installer insisted on doing it, hence the need for a solid mounting surface beneath the sheet rock.