I need build up from an existing footer. These footers are for an outside Hambro deck. The footers are huge, 40" by 40" and a 32" by 32" CMU stack resting on top, poured full of concrete. I will complete the elevation with 18" Sona Tube. To tie Sona Tube portion to the CMU, I will drill and set R-bar.

I can drill slightly diaganal and bend back to vertical and expoxy. The question is, Can I use standard 60 min set epoxy? Or is there some special epoxy for the seting of R-bar?

Thanks for your input,

Patrick T

Simpson markets an epoxy for rebar setting. You'll find it with the Simpson items at your lumber yard. It's in a tube with built-in mixer and an adapter to use in a regular caulking gun. Don't know what the real difference is from regular epoxy other than color and price! I bought and used one or two and then bought a large bottle of regular epoxy if I need to set any more rebar.

Must be one huge heavy deck if you need to use 18" sona tube. Realize that good concrete holds a minimum of 2500# per square in. A 6" column will hold up more than 20,000#. Your 18 incher will be good for almost 100 tons!

Set 22 is the 'Standard' epoxy I use for any epoxy work involving rebar setting

It is a 2 part and requires a double barrel gun to use it, I am not sure if it is available in the same strength as the single tubes the Mac was talking about.

decaeld,

The load is not driving the Sona tude Dia. It's what they had! Also, one of the footings needs to come up nearly 40". A bit of stability is in order. The deck is 15' by 70' 100lb/sq-ft rated. The posts will be set and then the beams will follow. The beams are 3 sections, approx 23 ft each. I want the posts to be real ridged when setting those beams!

I'm betting the R-Bar with regular epoxy will be fine. I have to beat the 5/8" R-bar in to my drilled holes. And if I drill with a bit of angle and bend, the 7" post anchor bolts will pull out long befor the Sona tube connection to a 32" sq CMU stack will.

Thanks for your in put. I have a few days...

Patrick T

Yep, that happens! Just like my concrete man had 36" tubes he used to form three pads for posts under the center beam in my bedroom wing when 18" or 24" would have been plenty. His convenience, my cost for concrete! Oh well, that's way it goes sometimes!

Mac

I believe set 22 comes in the single and double barrel. The single barrel would be the one that you put into your drill to mix.
Use a SDS concrete bit that is the same size as the rebar you will be inserting, the hammer drilling action will make the hole slightly big enough to get your epoxy and rebar in without using way to much epoxy that your wasting it. The last time I epoxy'd rebar was in Los Angeles county and we had to have a special deputy inspector come out, watch me do it, and sign it off- so you might want to check your county to see if you need to do that. In my case the hole needed to be 12" deep cleaned out with wire brush and blown out with a 12" nozzle hooked up to the compressor. You probably know the rest, but in case you don't, insert your epoxy tip all the way down the hole, start filling it up until you think you have around 3/4 of the hole filled, cut off the pressure on the tube so the epoxy stops coming out, stick your rebar in, and what I like to do is spin the rebar around until I hear it pop. When I hear it pop I know that all the air is out and the epoxy is fully consolidated. Make sure that you have enough epoxy that after your rebar is set that the epoxy is protruding around an 1/8" from the hole and all the way around the rebar. After 2 or three hours you should be able to bend your rebar, but an inspector will probably want you to wait 24.