Alright guys, most of you know that im about two weeks out of beginning to build. We are using TF Vert ICF's Im in contact with Carlisle to get MiriDrI peel and stick for above and below grade. Also getting the dimpleboard from them as well for below grade. We are planning to use a traditional truss system with extended heels for insulation. Im using INLINE triple pane 325 casements. What else do i need to take a hard look at as far as energy efficiency is concerned here in Northern Maines cold climate.

What are you doing for ventilator and heating/cooling system?

Ventilator, im unsure. Heating im not totally sure outside im pushing for radiant. Still have my options open and considering everything thats not powered by fossil fuel. Im sending my plans down to NT Rob to evaluate heating load and ventilation requirements.

Congrats on your plan to start building. High energy efficiency was my goal, as well, for my ICF (TF System) home. Here are some things I included in my plans:

1. ICF for both basement foundation and above grade walls (R22+.)

2. Ledger board support for floor to minimize thermal bridging at the wall-floor intersection.

3. Triple glass casement windows (U= 0.25).

4. Reduced window area to code minimums except where views are important. Only two 4'x4' basement windows with covered area wells.

5. Built-in, insulated rolling shutters on south and west facing windows (sun light control, thermal barrier, security, storm protection).

6. Raised plate for full ceiling insulation thickness to the limits of the ceiling. Attic is vented.

7. R50 ceilings: 3" polyurethane spray foam plus 8" fiberglass batts.

8. Careful sealing of all window/door openings and all wall/ceiling penetrations. All ceiling light fixtures, wiring and plumbing are located below spray-foam layer.

9. Attic access from garage rather than from living area.

10. Modulating, high efficiency boiler (natural gas) sized for calculated heating load.

11. Variable speed fan coil for forced air heating/cooling on main level.

8. Indirect domestic water heater connected to boiler.

9. Insulated (R10) basement floor with pex radiant heat.

10. 220 CFM three-speed HRV with aluminum core tied into forced air duct system. Draws stale air from bathrooms and laundry. Bathrooms have override controls.

11. Electric fireplace.

12. High efficiency lighting fixtures and appliances.

13. Dual flush toilets.

14. Home-run water distribution system (1/2" pex) with thermostatic, electric POU water heaters at kitchen and powder room sinks.

15. Fully insulated garages including 2" XPS under floors and R18 overhead doors.

16. Rainwater recovery/storage for lawn and garden use.


The house is still under construction, so I don't have any quantitative energy efficiency data yet.

John, you mentioned dimple-board water proofing, it has the tendency to get pulled down from back fill. Use lots of fasteners at the top. You may also want to put a protectant board of XPS over it to prevent this.
When you backfill, backfill in 12" lifts, compacting with a jumping-jack style compactor after every lift.

G'day,

Quick question from down under.  I like the medical analogy of prevention is better than cure. I like ICF's because they prevent heat loss or heat penetration better than anything else I've seen and I'm just a humble builder. I have a couple basements coming up and there is much controversy about how to properly waterproof a basement wall.

I'm wondering ... if we provide a drainage path for large volumes of water to escape from behind a basement wall so that there is barely any pressure build up ... do we still need all this peel and stick and platon and other commonly referred to measures? 

I'm a big believer in high strength concrete in basement walls with a crystalising agent in the mix to provide the bulk of the waterproofness along with a waterstop. I don't know if you have a company called Atlantis over there but i'm sure if they are here in Australia they've got to be in the U.S. - I've been using their drainage cells (which cover the entire wall) and the drainage pipe (which funnels the water away) for years with tremendous success. If we prevent the hydraulic pressure from building up ... do we need to do any more than provide a good waterproof concrete with a good waterstop to ensure dry basements ?

Steve Krsticevic
Formcraft
Concrete Homes built for life.

Sorry, wrong photos.

I meant to add these photos showing a retaining wall that has 40MPa concrete (6000Psi) with no paint on membrane on the footing, no Krystol or Penetron in the mix nor any waterstop just a plastic sheet loosely hanging behind the styrene and Atlantis drain pipe at the base and we haven't seen a drop come through the base of the wall.

Steve Krsticevic
FORMCRAFT
Concrete Homes Built for Life