aa_uk
 New Member
 Posts:95
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| 24 Nov 2009 12:57 PM |
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I am about to build a new house (for me) and I am probably going to use Quad Lock. It's cold where I live so I want to use the 4 inch panels inside and out. I have just realised that the Simpson StrongTie Ledger Connectors are only intended for the thinner 2 inch panels.
Has anybody come across this situation? The only way that I can think of handling it is to use the 2 inch panels for one layer where the ledger boards are going to be and then use ledger boards at least 2 inches thick so that they stick out past the foam above and below.
Or alternatively...?
Thanks
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Buntly
 Basic Member
 Posts:162
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| 24 Nov 2009 02:55 PM |
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Why not use a standard panel at the ledger location?
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aa_uk
 New Member
 Posts:95
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| 25 Nov 2009 03:01 AM |
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Hi Buntly, That's what I was proposing (but obviously did not make it clear!). Would that be the "standard" way to resolve it? |
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Caluwe-Gong
 New Member
 Posts:10
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| 25 Nov 2009 05:15 AM |
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Hi aa-uk,
2" on the inside, and 4" on the outside. The way to go. You will gain also more from the thermal concrete core mass radiation back into the building. I don't have a %, but it will be to your advantage. |
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Buntly
 Basic Member
 Posts:162
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| 25 Nov 2009 05:55 AM |
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That would definately be the easiest way. I would consult QL. Depending on the location of the ledger on the course, QL may recommend you bevel the thicker panel undeneath, although I would do this regardless. Square corners are not a good thing.
I would hold the 2" panel to the oustide of the thicker panel, that way your wall on the inside is "flush". After your ledger course, continue stacking the thicker panel above. Your wall will be flush on the inside from basement to top plate.
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douglas
 New Member
 Posts:1
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| 25 Nov 2009 11:39 AM |
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Hi, aa; You are generally on the right track, for sure. As you point out, our suggestion here at QL T&TS is to substitute the 2 1/4" Regular Panel at the ledger elevation. However, rather than holding the thinner panel back and flush to the concrete side, move the thinner panel out and flush with the foam side (towards the building interior). This will result in a band of thicker concrete at the ledger elevation, and permit the Simpson ICFVL brackets to function normally. It will also allow you to use the ordinary ledger board that is compatible with your joist system.
The substitution of the thinner (ergo: lower R-Value) panel at one level of the build will have negligible effect on the thermal performance of the wall. No thermal bridge is created, and the continuous band of insulation is maintained.
Please note this: I tend to agree with Caluwe-Gong about the unbalanced insulation taking better advantage of the thermal mass potential of the concrete. I believe that more is not always necessarily better in terms of R-value, because R-value only measures the capacity of a material or assembly to conduct heat. It is the combination (the "ICF holy trinity") of low conductivity (R-value), low porosity (control of air leakage), and high mass (thermal "storage battery) that are the secret to the performance of an ICF wall. I think that using the unbalanced insulation configuration will give you at least equal performance, and yet pose fewer issues with general constructability. Potential savings here can be better spent on higher quality windows, better roof insulation, and etc., which will have a much greater impact on the overall performance of your building. Congratulations on your project, and we wish you success. Douglas Bennion QL Training and Technical Services Manager |
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Baldwin2014
 Basic Member
 Posts:123
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| 25 Nov 2009 01:31 PM |
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this might help...
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aa_uk
 New Member
 Posts:95
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| 25 Nov 2009 03:13 PM |
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Top Man Baldwin!
Thanks very much.
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Baldwin2014
 Basic Member
 Posts:123
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Aaron McKinney
 New Member
 Posts:56
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| 27 Nov 2009 08:14 PM |
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Anchor bolts. Make sure they are long enough to get enough embedment into the concrete with enough also sticking past the foam to get your ledger board over the bolt, your washer, and nut. Also, your anchor bolts need to be strong enough (5/8" or 3/4" should be safe for most loads) and spaced out accordingly to support your floor. In your situation, you would need to cut a portion out of your panel (probably 4" x 4") around the anchor bolt for the concrete to support the bolt. Make sure the top and bottom cuts angle up and down to help with consolidation while pouring. |
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aa_uk
 New Member
 Posts:95
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| 28 Nov 2009 03:03 AM |
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Thanks Aaron. Angling any cuts sounds like a good idea. |
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