vb
New Member
Posts:88
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| 28 Nov 2009 09:59 AM |
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I am doing a concrete slab with an ICF stem wall. My designer (and the county) call out for "Cementite protector board" on the outside of my stem wall before backfill. Can anyone tell me what this is and how it is installed? Thanks. |
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Baldwin2014
Basic Member
Posts:123
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| 30 Nov 2009 11:44 AM |
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hmmm usually this is done with dimpleboard which is absically a thin [1/16"] sheet of plastic with little dimples in them - such as Delta MS... Its purpose is to protect the waterproofing membrane in behind or to damproof the wall. You should contact the ICF manufacturer and they will hook you up with a typical stemwall detail. |
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vb
New Member
Posts:88
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| 08 Dec 2009 09:39 PM |
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So what do you cover the dimple board with above grade?Can anybody else out there give me some advice? There must be a simple way to protect the styrofoam below grade and make an attractive finished area above grade. |
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dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
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| 08 Dec 2009 11:14 PM |
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Several different approaches have been used. A search on dimple, and the various brand names, should find the threads for you. Here is one such thread where I show what I did.
http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/view/topic/forumid/4/postid/44303/Default.aspx
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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wes
Advanced Member
Posts:810
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| 09 Dec 2009 06:16 AM |
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vb.
Typically the dimple board does not extend above the finish grade. I normally stop it about 6" below finish grade so that it stays covered even if the fill gets moved around (read: landscapers).
As to the 'cementite protector board', I would ask the designer and/or county for a definition of the term, since I am unfamilar with it. Surely they can provide examples of the products they expect to see used.
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| Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected] |
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Joseph Farella
New Member
Posts:57
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| 09 Dec 2009 01:21 PM |
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You could also look at using a waterbased waterproofing system such as Tuff-N-Dri from Tremco. The advantage of this , is that this is a spray applied waterproofing membrane that can be overlapped on the concrete slab.
Regardless of your choice,the most likely entry point for water is between the concrete slab and the bottom row of the first blocks.
Unless you had placed a waterstop in the concrete slab when you poured the slab.
I suggust use a peel and stick membrane and overlap the foam and the edge of the slab first no matter what system you use.
Make sure their is no voids as no membrane will span voids. |
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vb
New Member
Posts:88
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| 09 Dec 2009 09:38 PM |
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Just to be clear... Is The "Tuff n Dri" is sprayed directly onto the styrofoam ? |
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Joseph Farella
New Member
Posts:57
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| 10 Dec 2009 07:05 AM |
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Vb
Yes it is. Usually up to grade level.
I mention Tuff-N-Dri because it is a waterbased waterproofing membrane that does not effect the foam. Make sure you do not use a solvent based waterproofing as it will literally eat away the foam.
No spray applied waterproofing membrane spans voids.
Make sure that you foam in all openings in the foam, especially at the joints.
And make sure that no matter who's waterproofing membrane you use that they put on the recommended thickness at the proper rate.
To much at once might not adhere properly to the foam. |
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vb
New Member
Posts:88
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| 10 Dec 2009 07:48 PM |
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Thanks for the info. I am still wondering what to finish with above grade though??? |
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dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
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| 11 Dec 2009 12:08 AM |
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Posted By vb on 12/10/2009 7:48 PM
Thanks for the info. I am still wondering what to finish with above grade though??? The reason I did what I did is because I had the same question, and couldn't find very many answers that didn't seem to be quite pricey. One person I talked to while building my house said he uses hardipanel from the siding to the grade. But hardi products aren't intended for ground contact and there would no warranty on anything used that way. Some guys on here have mentioned using stucco, both synthetic and cement based. There are at least a couple of plastic or fiberglass panels, don't recall the brands now, made for this use. Parging is the term used to describe what you're wanting to do. My experience is that covering the ICF block from the siding to the grade is the one area of ICF construction where the need has not been met very well by building materials suppliers. One reason may be that a good share of ICF homes are stuccoed, and the stucco runs all the way down to grade, hence no need for parging.
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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Joseph Farella
New Member
Posts:57
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| 11 Dec 2009 05:58 AM |
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vb
What are you putting on the walls above the stem walls? |
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vb
New Member
Posts:88
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| 11 Dec 2009 08:52 AM |
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Joseph,
I am planning to use Hardi Plank on SIPS. |
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psammy
New Member
Posts:28
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| 11 Dec 2009 12:37 PM |
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Is there any reason not to use a 1x8 or 1x10 strip of Azek at grade (with maybe a drip cap) then start the Hardiplank above that? It would give a nice traditional water table look. Azek is approved for ground contact. |
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Joseph Farella
New Member
Posts:57
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| 11 Dec 2009 12:50 PM |
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Without seeing the elevations, or the plans, I would make sure that the sips panels and the ICF line up so that you can bring the Hardi Planks down past the sips panels on to the ICF's and as close to ground level as possible, leaving the minnimal amout of ICF exposed.
What is left can be parged. Many BICF suppliers also sell this parging so it should not be difficult for you to get. |
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JTWelsh
New Member
Posts:7
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| 11 Dec 2009 01:41 PM |
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I work for a NUDURA distributor, and we stock a product by Du-Rock for parging that's called B2000 Prep Coat.
It is made specifically for parging ICF systems.
Joe
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Nudura Sales Rep - Bird Stairs
St. John's, Newfoundland Canada
T: 709-747-0040 |
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Joseph Farella
New Member
Posts:57
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| 11 Dec 2009 01:43 PM |
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It is an excellent product. |
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dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
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| 11 Dec 2009 02:03 PM |
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Posted By Joseph Farella on 12/11/2009 12:50 PM so that you can bring the Hardi Planks ... as close to ground level as possible But not closer than the minimum 6" above ground that Hardi requires, right?
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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Joseph Farella
New Member
Posts:57
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| 11 Dec 2009 02:07 PM |
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Of course. |
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dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
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| 11 Dec 2009 02:08 PM |
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Posted By psammy on 12/11/2009 12:37 PM
Is there any reason not to use a 1x8 or 1x10 strip of Azek at grade Cost, maybe? If it's available in 1/2" thick panel I would think that would be a better option. Royal Mouldings makes a similar product that's available at Home Depot under the brand name of Never Rot.
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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dmaceld
Veteran Member
Posts:1465
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| 11 Dec 2009 02:30 PM |
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vb, if the outer surface of the SIP is flush with the outer surface of the ICF, and the distance from the SIP to ground is uniform all the way around, think about doing this. Use a plastic board, Never Rot or Azek, as a lap siding plank that overlaps the dimple membrane and extends below grade. Use one or two courses as needed to get you the min 6" above grade. Then start the Hardi with the bottom course of Hardi overlapping the plastic plank. That will give you a continuous lap look all the way to the ground and save having to use a starter strip and drip cap to start the Hardi. You can paint the plastic if desired.
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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