Can this be done? Would like to use the fabric form for the footings, and bring in the crete and a pumper, do the whole shebang in one pour.

Gene,  If you haven't visited Fab Form's website, here is a link to almost exactly what you're asking about.  To answer your question, yes it can be done.

http://www.fab-form.com/projects/Fastfoot/Residential/mp_centre_construction.html

I did something similar with their fabric, but using what's called the Menzel Method, also on their website.   Poured 8"x16" footing and about 1.5 forms (24") for a stem wall with no problems.  Fabric works as advertised.

Gene, What we have been doing alot now is pouring the footing letting it cure. Then stacking the block and then pouring the wall and the slab at the same time. If you are planning on pouring a slab then you may consider this approach. Just brace the wall on the outside. Fast Foot is a great product. We are not sure why it is not industry standard. And if you are not pouring a slab go for the monopour

Gene,

I've poured two like this. the first had a perimeter of under 100 feet, but 10 corners, including two odd angles. The other was small and simple. In both cases. I had 4 feet of ICF form on top of the footing form.

I also used the "Menzel Method" as described on Fab form's site with a couple of small modifications.

It went perfectly. Absolutely trouble free. The Fab Form alone will save a ton of time. The monopour, which is a rarely used technique on the East Coast of Canada, also saves a heap of money in material, one pump charge ($500 here), and one lot of leftover concrete.

One change I made to Paul Menzel's method was that I used hat channel across the footing form. He used something else. that's of no consequence. The other was that I got the mud delivered quite dry, at a slump of about 2". I filled the footing form first, vibrating it into place, then wetted it up some and poured the ICF. It was clean and easy.

Despite the whole assembly looking like a good wind might take it away, it held the concrete and held it where it was supposed to be. the heights ended up being right on, exactly where they were when the pour began and there was no change in location that I could measure.

Ron