I was wondering what experience others have when connecting a small ICF addition to an existing wood frame structure. How is it connected? Any input is appreciated. I am curious to know what others have done and what they found to be typical, efficient, etc. Thanks

I came across an article in ICF builder that said typical was to use anchor bolts coming out of the side that is attached to a "side plate" instead of a top plate and then framed into the existing wall...? This seems simple enough.

I have never done this. However, after a couple minutes thought, I don't think I would 'attach' the ICF wall to the wood frame wall. After removing the exisiting exterior finishes, install your ICFs, with endcaps, as snuggly as possible to the wood frame wall. Make sure to use some type of endcap system to keep the concrete away from the frame wall. This existing wall will not be able to contain the weight of the wet concrete, so either factory endcaps or PT 2x's will be necessary to contain the concrete while it sets up. Just as you would with the end of a freestanding wall. After the concrete cures, seal any gaps between the old and new walls with expanding foam, and 'attach' the two walls with interior and exterior finishes.

I have used V-buck attached to wood framed structures.

I haven't done this, but this seems like a simple way to attach an ICF wall to an existing wood framed wall.

Rip a treated 2x to the inside width of the ICF forms, i.e. if you will have a 6" core ICF wall, rip a 2x8 down to 6" wide. Using 3" minimum galvanized or other coated screws, securely screw this to the existing wood framing where the ICF wall is going to intersect. Now take some of these same 3"+ long coated screws and screw them only 1" to 1.5" into the treated 2x so that 1.5"+ of the screw and head is sticking out. This will get imbedded in the concrete. Now stack your ICF forms up and screw them to the treated 2x with long screws and large plastic washers or fender washers. You can also temporarily screw a 2x4 cleat on either side of the ICF forms to help hold them in place during the pour. The concrete is now locked into the treated 2x which is securely fastened to the existing wood framing.

I believe that you may want to think this situation a little more. We have connected a second floor addition, on columns to an existing 2 story wood framed house. We believe that the wood and the concrete will move differently, therefore, we did not "attach" the existing house to the ICF walls. We separated the concrete from actually touching the wood exterior sheeting by a thin piece of foam (1/4"). Then, when they placed the stucco siding, in the interior corner formed between the new and existing area, we flashed it with metal, a foot in each direction. Also, synthetic stucco was used, it has more elasticity. It is over 2 years old now, with no problems to date.

wes and gfasco got it right.
Most times we do an adittion the engeneers specify no conection since as mentioned above the two building materials don't act the same with regards to wheather. We usually see a 1 1/2 gap between existing and new.
Cheers!

So you guys are saying that when I stick build my garage that I shouldn't have any physical connection to the ICF walls of the house?

Arkie,
If you have an existing ICF wall, then a stick frame wall can be attached to it, and if you are worried about different rates of movement between the two, then you can make allowances for movement between the two walls. The simplest way to do this would be to cut slots in the 2x that will be attached to the ICF, then place your fastners in the center of the slots, and do not over tighten. Then as the walls move at different rates, the fastners can move in the slots and relieve any binding that could cause problems. This we do all the time with no problems.
My immediate concern in my earlier post had more to do with the ability of a 2x4 or 2x6 framed wall to handle the loads applied by an 8'+ tall column of wet concrete pressing against it without bowing or outright failure, than the
differences in movement.

I have made that connection many times, including the house I lived in for 6 years after the connection. We pin the footings together, we pin a poured foundation to the ICF foundation or in the case of CMUs we knock holes in them so the concrete flows into the holes and add rebar.
For the wood, we put a barrier such as tar paper and run lots of screw part way into the wood framing so the concrete in the ICF cavity holds onto the screw.
I have not had any movement, which would be evident by drywall cracks, in any of the jobs.