Posted By jpj on 28 Nov 2011 12:44 PM
thagreen - I thought about that, but I haven't really asked the strip form guys about it yet. Not sure how well that would work with their forms and experience....My ideal situation was to has a ledge though to provide extra support -- I'm an idealist :-)
Randy - I don't think the code calls for rebar to tie into the walls in the basement, but if not them i'm not sure exactly how much vertical rebar will even do?! You need to tie that rebar (lap splice) it in with the footings because that is your point of horizontal support that will allow the vertical rebar to flex between the basement floor and first floor. It is how they all do it in the commercial/industrial world at least...
BTW - do you usually key the footings?
You probably don't even need rebar. When I started, which wasn't too long ago about 15 years, the majority of the houses did not use any rebar. The more corners the wall has the stronger it is to any outside lateral forces. If a wall was 40' or longer and straight we would usually just switch to 10" thick. I prefer rebar dowels over a keyway. I never had any issues with a key way, but rebar seems to me a better choice for holding the wall to the footing. I have heard keyways were used to help hold water out of the basement, not sure how true that is though. I wouldn't worry too much about vertical rebar, maybe add a couple dowels every 4' or for piece of mind at construction joints. If we add rebar in houses it is always horizontals that we add first. If you have any straight walls longer than 30', on commercial jobs we typical add a piece of chamfer to act as a control joint for cracking, you could add a little bar here if desired. Typical slices are 36 bar diameters, that is figured out like this say you need to figure out the splice for #4 bar this how the math would look 36 x 1/2 = 18" for #4. 36 x 5/8 = 22.5 for #5. This is minimum splice lengths. Remember you always want to keep rebar at least 2" from form faces also
I personally wouldn't consider pouring a floor without it being on a shelf. I have never seen it designed this way, just being held in place with rebar. If I were to build this, I would pour the floor over the entire top of the wall. I would leave some #4 bar out the top of the wall with a bend on them. I would then bend the rebar into you floor and pour it. You now would have a level surface to setup your ICF's on.
Let me know if you have any more questions