There are the Simpson ICFL two-piece things, but aren't they costly? By using hooked anchor bolts with an in-place ledger fixed right before the pour, nuts tightened after cure, isn't it an easier detail with less cost? Done this way, what is used to fix the ledger board in place for the pour? Do we just screw it to the fastening embeds in the ICF? Is that enough purchase to be assured of the ledger staying in place until fully bolted? Seeking guidance from pros who have done it both ways.

Screw the ledger to the fastening strip on the ICF, and then put some dead men under the ledger boards to support them.

Being a DIY'er, I followed the plan my contractor uses. I cut a 5" diameter circle in the form for each ledger. I then screwed a plywood patch over the hole, and used that to hold the J-bolt in place for the pour. This leaves a concrete pad for direct contact of the ledger. It worked well, although drilling the holes for the ledger bolts was tedious, having to take all of the measurements and transferring them to the ledgers. In hind sight, using the ledger itself, rather then the plywood patches would have been easier. Now I wonder why he doesn't do it that way?

What Ray says, but cut the dead men 1/2" short, make up that 1/2" with a scrap of rebar, if the wall settles a bit you can pull the rebar scrap out. Failing to do this should the wall settle and only be able to settle on the opposite side, your wall will be crooked and nothing you can do will bring it back

Posted By jdebree on 03 Dec 2012 05:42 AM
...In hind sight, using the ledger itself, rather then the plywood patches would have been easier. Now I wonder why he doesn't do it that way?

Probably because the wall bracing he uses would interfere with the ledger board running continuously around the top inside of the forms.  If you are going to install the ledger board before the pour, you almost need to use custom made wood bracing or make provisions to shim metal bracing out from the wall foam by the thickness of the ledger board.

just got done doing this a few weeks ago. We put the ledger up with the bolts installed, screwed it to the plastic. If I were to do it again, I would use the Simpson bracket. The cost ended up being almost the same, but the labor, I am guessing, would be 2x as much as with the Simpson by the time you factor in bolt layout, drilling and installing, cutting the chunk out of the foam for the concrete around the bolts, etc. We used (2) 5/8" bolt at 22" centers where the ICFLV could have been closer to a single one at 4' centers.
Plus the bolts were sticking out a couple inches when we were pouring. Our sweatshirts kept getting stuck on them and ripped/snagged. Doesnt sound overly important, but it was quite trivial, trust me!!!

Posted By arkie6 on 03 Dec 2012 11:47 AM

Posted By jdebree on 03 Dec 2012 05:42 AM
...In hind sight, using the ledger itself, rather then the plywood patches would have been easier. Now I wonder why he doesn't do it that way?

Probably because the wall bracing he uses would interfere with the ledger board running continuously around the top inside of the forms.  If you are going to install the ledger board before the pour, you almost need to use custom made wood bracing or make provisions to shim metal bracing out from the wall foam by the thickness of the ledger board.

Makes sense, except the ledger was attached to 6" forms which were stepped down from the 8" basement forms, so it would have cleared the bracing. In fact, it would have made it easier to attach the bracing to the top course, since I had to rig up 2" spacers everywhere. I could have just used 1/2" plywood scraps and the actual ledger to make up the 2" step. Oh well, live and learn. This is my first and last self-built home, but maybe someone else can learn from my situation. If all the forms were the same thickness, you could make 2X spacers to attach the bracing to, and they would also hold the ledger at the right height. I'm not sure which would be easier, but making over 100 plywood patches, plus measuring, drilling, and bolting the ledgers after the fact was a lot of work.

I have nine foot strongbacks for this purpose. I install the anchor bolts (with 2.5 by 2.5 by 3/8" metal welded to them) and install the ledgers. I screw the ledgers to the webs for some stablity and let them rest on a piece of 3/4" scrap setting on the strongbacks. the ledgers already have the joist hangers on them. I then install the complete floor system making sure everything is plumb and square. Then its time to pour concrete. The building stays perfectly square, the floor is level and I have the whole floor to pour from. No running around the gangplank!! Safe Simple done like dinner!

FBBP, are you purchasing these AB's already made with the flange? or are you fabricating yourself? If so, what is the cost, and if purchasing, who is the supplier?

Posted By Chris Johnson on 05 Dec 2012 08:22 AM
FBBP, are you purchasing these AB's already made with the flange? or are you fabricating yourself? If so, what is the cost, and if purchasing, who is the supplier?

Chris - I've done them both ways. I have a local welding shop make them up for I believe around $2.75. Lately I have had a shop shear me the cubes for about .85 cents each and have the boys weld them as we need them. You might find a B.I. that wants them certified but the weld is not actually structural, so most don't. Bob

FBBP do you have a pictures of your setup. Sounds like a great way to do it.