ICF Workshop overkill?
Last Post 07 Sep 2014 01:54 PM by jonr. 1 Replies.
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Evel_KnievelUser is Offline
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07 Sep 2014 12:55 PM
Looking at building a workshop myself with 6" thick pour ICF. 26' Deep by 65' long. The purpose for the building is I'm looking at having a shop area of 26' deep by 50' wide and the remaining 15'X26' framed out as a recording studio. I need a building easy to cool and easy to heat as this is central Indiana and we get both climates fairly even and I need to work out here year round. The shop area will be used for various projects but mostly painting cars or doing bodywork. I would like the building to be very secure as well so only one heavy duty well insulated garage door and one all steel entry door with a steel frame is considered. ICF seems like a good option. But I'm curious if it would be a good idea to build the way I'm planning. I know many things should be taken into account as far as experience and getting things square, straight, level, plumb, etc. And all my electrical/plumbing entry/exit, but With all that aside,I was considering renting a backhoe and digging my footer trench and pouring a standard rebar enforced footer. I think here in Indiana we have to go 4' deep to get below the frost line. Once it cures I was going to lay a standard foundation block foundation with rebar sticking out to tie into the ICF walls. Then dig out for the slab floor and install packed sand then lay out all the 4" Extruded foam board for the perimeter and bottom then lay all the steel mesh and pour the floor and let it cure. Then form and pour the walls, etc. Would this be acceptable to do a standard block foundation then pour the slab, then form & pour the walls? Or should I just put in the footer and pour the walls directly on the footer? Looks like the block foundation is cheaper. I'm also not certain how much rebar the 6" walls would need since there would be no back filling against the walls if done over a block foundation?
jonrUser is Offline
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07 Sep 2014 01:54 PM
I'd look at a) a frost protected shallow foundation (FPSF) and b) doors that seal well and don't have much thermal bridging.

How well you insulate should be balanced against the number of hours you use it. A low interior mass design and/or some fast acting radiant heat may be cost effective.
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