Thanks. I had just recently started thinking of cutting a slight angle out of the outer portion of the bottom buck. i'll have to use some scrap to test with, but I was also looking into getting a hot knife and/or groover to make it a nice straight cut.

to cover the weather barrier tape, I was going to just use some white aluminum flashing and basically create them manually. It sounds like I might just have to get some on-site assistance to really do it properly. I'll post some pics once I get it figured out.

If they haven't been installed yet, you should be able to rip a nice clean angle on a table saw... If they are installed, I would use a hot wire cutter on a bow/frame if it is just foam you are trimming. You can put wood guides inside and out for the wire to run on for a nice straight cut, and if you move at a steady speed it will look pretty nice. I have cut many foam wings this way, and the straight edges of my ICF openings, the key is moving the wire at a steady speed. If you pause anywhere, the hot wire continues to melt and forms a ditch. For this reason the hot wire or knife doesn't do such a great job when you have to cut crosstie material such as is imbedded in most foam bucks and generally just makes a mess of it. If a crosstie is involved, I use a saw...

Sounds like sloping the whole bottom buck it's easier, more precise and less messy than shaving or cutting it...

Probably About as messy as you need to cut down the outside block a little to allow the buck to slope. If the block is In place, you will have crossties every 8" to deal with so the hotwire is out IMO. That leaves a saw and the ICF sawdust much of it falling down into the wall. If the block is not installed yet, I would use the table saw to make this cut... Since the window most likley spans more than one block, that means you need to make this angled cut on several blocks, and only on parts of some of those blocks.

Since the buck is easier to work with, and any bucks cut to fit an opening(even multiple pieces) will receive a cut their entire length, I would cut the bucks in a tablesaw. Once you set the fence and the angle, the bucks would zip right thru quick and easy...

Posted By pacificstart on 05 Aug 2016 12:28 AM
Sounds like sloping the whole bottom buck it's easier, more precise and less messy than shaving or cutting it...

I think I'm going to choose to do it after-the-fact for 3 reasons:

1) the temp wood bracing won't be on an angle during the pour -- minor issue I presume, as the cross-bracing would be screwed down i would think
2) i'm not physically doing this part myself, so it's less I have to get my builder to do (I will cut it down myself later with a hot knife -- I grabbed a spare piece of bucking from the dumpster today to test with) I don't know if he has the equipment on site to cut it down evenly, plus that's more labor on his part
3) i'm not sure I want the inside part of the buck to be angled. maybe it won't matter, but i'm just thinking in terms of creating an interior sill.

just my thoughts.

EDIT: oh, and I think with the Fox buck it's about 1/4" from outside of EPS to the plastic bracing - at least that's an approximation based on me just looking at it.

EDIT: oh, and I think with the Fox buck it's about 1/4" from outside of EPS to the plastic bracing - at least that's an approximation based on me just looking at it.

On the lower window buck, yes, the edge of the plastic crosstie face on a foxbuck is about 1/4" below the surface that the window will set on. That crosstie face is in approx 5/8" back from the edge of the buck, same as it is about 5/8" below the surface of the fox blocks(it's the same tie)... Plenty of room to get a decent slope for drainage even if you slope all the way across the buck...