I am trying to figure out what type of anchors to place (before the pour) for installing a suspended canopy on a ICF wall. Something like in this picture: http://www.houzz.com/photos/2486785/Phinney-Ridge-Seattle-contemporary-exterior-seattle The EPS is no thicker than 3". I realize this will create a thermal bridge in these spots but I'll live with that. Question is what type of anchors to use and who makes them? Since these anchors must be pretty standard for concrete construction, how do people deal with the EPS layer around? Any sample drawings or details would be great.

SIMPSON ICFVL's are what I have used with excellent results.

I imagine you have installed two ledger boards - one up one down - in order to use the SIMPSON ICFVL for a suspended canopy. Correct?

oh...sorry....I thought you meant the deck itself. I see what you mean now. Those attachments could be made in a number of ways. Cast in place bolts or drilled in expansion joints. The most affordable way might be to allow concrete to flow to surface in a few places with plywood covers and then redheads into concrete. Some other members might have a better plan.

Consider doing nothing before the pour and then drill and epoxy in eye bolts (pullout force will exceed the bolt strength).

Or embed eyebolts and plates and pour around them...

I might have found my own answer. I am thinking something like Halfen HSC-B and DETAN rods


http://downloads.halfen.com/catalogues/usa/media/catalogues/reinforcementsystems/huc-us.pdf

Old school. Cut 3" diameter tunnels to the surface of the foam. Embed your anchors well in to the center of the form, with washers and nuts. Probably stainless eye bolts. But I would consult with an engineer to assure the load is supported. I would not use post pour drilled holes with lags. Good for hanging a mail box but nothing I would use where weight in concerned.

Simpson's ICFVL or what smartwall said. Either will work.

If you want low cost, low thermal bridging and no visible hardware, you could drill a small hole, run a cable through it (to the interior side) and then add a washer and a swaged on stop.

Jonr - this is a very good suggestion, I haven't thought about that.

I will probably end up placing some PVC tubing before the pour to accommodate the rods/anchors. Once concrete is cured I will place the rods through the tubes in the wall, caulk around them, cut off the EPS in the area, place metal plates on both sides of the wall, then tighten up the plates with nuts.
This sounds more like a DIY solution since I don't have to buy anchors from Halfen or Simpson but I will still need to get the plates and rods manufactured somewhere.
With this solution there is also risk of creating voids prone to air leaks.
I could also place the rods directly in the concrete before the pour. Less air leaks but more thermal bridging. The positioning plates will need to be placed at the same time I'm thinking.