PT door sills - how to cover?
Last Post 08 May 2017 04:10 PM by pacificstart. 7 Replies.
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GeergirlUser is Offline
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19 Apr 2017 10:11 PM
So our doors open inwards, which means our 12" ICF walls currently expose 8-10" of the pressure treated wood the builder placed all around the foam bucks to attach the door to, and to lift the (public access/ADA) sill high enough that our flooring slides under on the inside. He didn't ask us about this detail until well after the doors were installed (2 months ago!), and he isn't planning on flashing them for another few weeks (leaving them exposed in the rain, where we've already had water come in and drop down the interior drywalled and painted walls...but that's another rant) Any suggestions for how to finish them? One is upstairs, and will be covered by Duradeck material, but the others are butting up against flush concrete. Any suggestions? Builder is suggesting we put tile or something, but not sure it would withstand our continental Canadian climate either... The pic below is of the sill that will be covered by Duradeck.

Attachment: temp-cover-doesntwork-2017-.jpg

pacificstartUser is Offline
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20 Apr 2017 09:39 PM
Aluminum sill sloped at 1/4:12?
And the upper part of the sill should come below the existing door sill.


pacificstartUser is Offline
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20 Apr 2017 09:40 PM
Aluminum sill sloped at 1/4:12?
And the upper part of the sill should come below the existing door sill.


dmaceldUser is Offline
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20 Apr 2017 11:00 PM
Even without a covering water should not be coming inside. I'd lean on the builder to seal the sill against water intrusion. Properly installed tile should be able to handle your climatic conditions, I would think. Or paint it with something like this: http://www.rustoleum.com/industrial/problem-solvers/anti-slip-coatings-for-slippery-floors/

The sill needs to be sealed against water intrusion before you concern yourself with covering the PT. The covering cannot be relied on as the barrier.



Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help!
GeergirlUser is Offline
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20 Apr 2017 11:54 PM
dmaceld - yes, I agree - to date he's waiting on a few other things (pouring the garage, finishing some exterior insulation, parging coat, etc) since his flashing guy also is doing the trim and stucco, and he appears to not want his guy to come out twice. Believe me, we've had some angry emails back and forth as of late.

Based on the water intrusion we see, it's not coming between the aluminum sill and the PT subsill, but rather between the pt subsill, and the plywood subfloor - which I believe should be flashed (currently none of the doors are, at all) and caulked better (as one of the other doors the silicon seal to the PT subsill has already failed). He doesn't seem wholly convinced though...


Pacificstart - are you suggesting I sand down the PT sill, and add something on top of it?


pacificstartUser is Offline
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25 Apr 2017 04:40 PM
Geegirl - yes - I would suggest exactly that - sand it down and put an aluminum sill plate on top of it.


FBBPUser is Offline
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01 May 2017 03:20 AM
Don't you hate it when someone takes a perfectly good ICF building and adds WOOD!

If you don't remove the door and add flashing and a dam under the door, you will always have the risk of leakage on an in swing door. I believe this is what dmaceld is reffering too. If you put Dura deck on, they will seal it with caulking where it meets the door. In five years the caulking will leak, three if its exposed to the sun.
The chance of tile surviving at the juncture of four dissimilair materials is remote to none. If you seal the door properly, you may be able to find an extruded aluminum sill extender to cover the area.


pacificstartUser is Offline
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08 May 2017 04:10 PM
What FBBP said.

And you could remove the bottom piece of wood that is supposed to be covered by the sill cover and have it poured of GFR concrete. That may be easier to DIY and also cheaper than finding the right piece of aluminum. You can also stain it, stamp it and seal it so it may integrated better with the house aesthetically speaking. Either way you want to be mindful not to create a thermal bridge with the outdoor sill. Also -you may want to cut the door buck and door frame sides so the outdoor sill extends under them rather than next to them to prevent rot in the long term.


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