rogerius
 New Member
 Posts:53
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| 30 Apr 2017 09:27 PM |
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We are planning to start building in a couple of weeks and I'm still debating how to install the I-beam: 1. to create pockets in the wall and installing after the walls are poured or 2. to install it in place before pouring, so will be encapsulated by concrete. What do you guys recommend?
Thank you. |
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dmaceld
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1465

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| 30 Apr 2017 11:17 PM |
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Please give us more details. Where, for what purpose, and how large an I-beam. Those are all variables that need to be taken into consideration. |
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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rogerius
 New Member
 Posts:53
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| 01 May 2017 12:08 AM |
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Posted By dmaceld on 30 Apr 2017 11:17 PM
Please give us more details. Where, for what purpose, and how large an I-beam. Those are all variables that need to be taken into consideration.
The I-Beam which supports the main floor is W10x39. The total length is 60ft supported by 2 jack poles but I ordered the beam in 3 sections for easy handling. I'm wondering how you guys are installing the I beam. My neighbor told me that his contractor installed the beam in place and then poured the concrete. Looking online looks like people are creating a pocket in the wall and after the walls are poured the I beam is installed. |
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FBBP
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1215
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| 01 May 2017 12:39 AM |
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If the engineer has not given any instructions, I would install after the fact. If you try to encapsulate it, make very sure you have it well supported so as not to create a safety hazard during the pour. |
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ronmar
 Basic Member
 Posts:479
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| 01 May 2017 03:25 AM |
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10X39, that's a big beam... You will have to build Some solid support structure to hold that in place for the pour. it might also conflict with scaffold/catwalk placement where as a pocket will not interfere with the pour all that much. With a pocket, you can also leave an opening in the bottom of the pocket form to allow air to escape and insure concrete completely fills in the void under the pocket to completely support the beam when installed... |
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dmaceld
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1465

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| 01 May 2017 04:07 AM |
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Posted By ronmar on 01 May 2017 03:25 AM
10X39, that's a big beam... You will have to build Some solid support structure to hold that in place for the pour. it might also conflict with scaffold/catwalk placement where as a pocket will not interfere with the pour all that much. With a pocket, you can also leave an opening in the bottom of the pocket form to allow air to escape and insure concrete completely fills in the void under the pocket to completely support the beam when installed...
W10 x 39 wide flange beam is just under 8" wide x 10" deep. The 39 is lbs/ft weight. Not a horribly big beam I don't think. Making a pocket gives latitude to make elevation adjustments during the install. If it's placed during the pour you have to make sure it's well supported so it doesn't settle and end up being lower than needed. |
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| Even a retired engineer can build a house successfully w/ GBT help! |
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greentree
 Advanced Member
 Posts:587
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| 01 May 2017 04:18 AM |
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Beam pocket for ease of adjustment with steel shims, then you can grout it in after its set if you want. I always set it on a piece of ice and water to seperate the steel from the concrete. Jack poles with the threaded end down so the concrete floor encapsulates it, otherwise youll need to tack weld the threads to the pole. Use a laser to set height exact. If its just an icf basement and stick upper you need either account for the sill seal raising the mudsill slightly or better yet run sill seal under the beam plate as well to keep uniform. |
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Dilettante
 Advanced Member
 Posts:503
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| 01 May 2017 07:20 AM |
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Dunno if I'd recommend concreting in the end of the jack-posts. It leaves you with yet another penetration in your concrete and a possible thermal bridge. |
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joasis
 New Member
 Posts:44
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| 01 May 2017 12:36 PM |
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Bury it in the wall and wet set. Vibrate carefully to insure complete encasement. |
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| Ladwig Construction<br>Hennessey, Oklahoma<br>405 853 1563<br>Residential and Commercial Contractor<br>ICF's and Steel |
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emmetbrick
 New Member
 Posts:90
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| 04 May 2017 01:27 PM |
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DMACELD is correct about the size. I simulate the area the beam will need by gluing scrap foam in the wall at the beam end location. The foam is pulled out when the beam is ready to set. Keeps the wall intact. Uses scrap. Less labor cost than building a box or bulkheading. I've never poured a beam in anything I've ever built ICF or not. House or hospital. Never. |
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