Hi, I'm currently stacking ICF basement on the footing that is just about acceptable in my mind. I think I could have done better job and never done footing before. Done by guy that does footings and foundations but doesn't know what ICF is. I got 3 rows of ICF all way around plus 5 rows on my walkout section which is now even with other 3 rows. Seems like every time I try to check level something is little off. I got to the point where walls are level to about 1/8 of inch and about 3/8 within corner to corner. I already spend couple days trying to get this right and level but it seems that every time I check I find another section of level. Don't know if this is my reading error or equipment issue? (Bosh GRL250) I don't know if I should continue to try make this better, I'm running out of time trying to pour basement before everything freezes. House will be 2 story or 3 levels with basement all ICF. Will this make opportunity to hide and adjust later or will just propagate and make this worst? What is GOOD ACCEPTABLE tolerance using ICF Fox Blocks? How close do I need to be? Thank you. Jerry.

Are you talking vertically plumb? Or horizontally level?

If you're talking vertical plumb, just get it close, Your BRACING is what will get you plumb.

Question, did you just start stacking courses onto the footing?
Or did you scribe the bottom of the first course to the footing?

Also, try not to get too far ahead in any one section. Because it can throw the rest of the building off.

Also, talk to your ICF rep about strategies for getting plumb and level, common seams, etc.

You can run a drywall saw between the footing and the first row to bring certain areas down to get them in level. And foam areas that have a gap. I would spend the time to get it right. Mine was within a half inch and the house is over 100 feet from corner to corner (was very lucky). 3700 Sqft.

Spend the time at the time of the pour getting the walls exactly straight both over the length of the wall and vertically. My guys walked away at the end of the pour saying it was good (80 yards was very tiring) and I stayed an extra 2 hours getting it perfect with the braces and having scrap wood around in the dark. Glad I did, once the concrete cures you are not moving it.

You can pour a wall in freezing weather, the block insulate the curing concrete.

I once found a study that showed the best temp for strength to pour a cement slab was 28 degrees. The cool air slows down the curing process and make the concrete harder. I bet pouring concrete in hot weather creates weaker walls because it cures so fast.

You can throw cheap fiberglass bats over the top of the wall to insulate and watch the temp with a inferred gun. We did one of my pours in the 20's and I think the concrete stated in the 40's for a week.

Best practice is place 3 courses all the way around. Set up your laser level and with the help of another person shim the bottom of the wall till level and foam in place. Make sure you don't add the horizontal rebar until level.

How far out-of-level is the footing from corner to corner? Are there any cracks in the footing? Do all 4 sides of the footing have the same exposure? I.e. is the footing at the same depth relative to grade all the way around or is this a walkout basement? What is the footing resting on? If clay, has there been any significant change in moisture content since the footing was placed? If your footings are on clay and the moisture content has changed since being placed, the footing could easily move >3/8" in height from corner to corner since the footing was placed.

Have you checked the measurements on your ICF blocks? They could easily vary by more than 1/16" in height and could cause your wall level to change by the amount you have found. Also, how "new" are the ICF blocks? Freshly manufactured? If they are fresh out of the molding machine, there could still be some post-molding shrinkage occurring and at different rates depending on exposure to the atmosphere (blocks tightly wrapped and stacked would shink slower than ones exposed to sun and wind).

Regardless, the numbers you have listed are acceptable. The American Concrete Institute (ACI) specifies an allowable tolerance for concrete slabs of 1/4" in any 10', 3/8" in any bay or 20', and 3/4" over the maximum or entire length.

http://www.awci.org/cd/pdfs/8003_e.pdf

Dilettante,
I'm referring to horizontal levels. I didn't scribe the bottom, just stack the forms.

Newbostonconst,
I have been using door shims to bring forms up and running saw where it was high, I just pick cedar shingles to use instead of shims in some places. I think the extra width will give more support and stability to the wall.
I'm not so much worry about pouring concrete in to the forms in cold temp but concrete hitting freezing footing. I also want to get this basement done so I can backfill my footing to cover from frost.

Smartwall,
Why are you suggesting of not adding horizontal rebar before leveling? Just can't quite figure this one out?

Arkie6,
Where my footing has flat surface it is at least 3/4 inch of level between low and high spot if not more, however when they make keyways they create many high bumps. On top of that some keyways are near or under EPS foam and trying to shim there makes more difficult with rough bumpy surface. My footing is resting on sand and it is mostly all one level with the exception of one section on the side of the house where I have walkout basement. This is where I have in total 5 rows stack now, this is only about 19 linear feet out of 170'. When I was referring to corners being out about 3/8 this meant being out of square about 3/8 but I got this closer now.

I'm going to take another stub at this to make it level. I think my problem is the footing and now I have to spent more time to make it work.

Thank you all for the advise and suggestions.

Okay. If you just stacked, and didn't cut the crenelations (the key on the bottom), it's going to be an absolute female dog to level.
Worse will be sealing the bottom, as all those gaps provide outlets for concrete to exit. If you're using foam spray to seal the bottom, it going to be RIDICULOUSLY expensive.
Your best bet for the first course and getting them level.

1) Table Saw
2) Set the rip fence so that a pass JUST kisses the bottom of the crenelations
3) Rinse and repeat until you have your entire first course laid.
4) Shim and level
5) Foam the bottom

After that, it should be much easier to keep successive courses level end-to-end.

Also, if you haven't done so, snap lines for proper and square alignment of your walls.

If you have bumps and high spots in your footing, you can use a large angle grinder with a 7" double row diamond cup grinding wheel to knock them down fairly quickly.

If our customers are dealing with a terrible set of footings, we get them to use the Monopour Side Supports to level and plumb the first two courses of ICF. Then they spray foam, or shim the gaps. Works like a hot dam; http://fab-form.com/fastfootMp/fastfootMpOverview.php

If our customers are dealing with a terrible set of footings, we get them to use the Monopour Side Supports to level and plumb the first two courses of ICF. Then they spray foam, or shim the gaps. Works like a hot dam; http://fab-form.com/fastfootMp/fastfootMpOverview.php

3/8's is a little loose but I wouldn't lose sleep over it, 1/4" is acceptable. When you pour it will change slightly again, concrete pushing down on the rebar will compress the foam slightly, again not the end of the world. When you install your top plate for floor system or roof you can shim that as needed and then seal any gaps with spray foam as needed