OK, I've been researching this to death.  I feel like I've really learned a lot, and (most importantly) enough to make an informed decision.  Couple things, though..

When talking to my "SIP guy", I asked about other jobs/subs that are impacted.  The primary one I've heard that can be an issue is the electrical.  He took care of that one - said he has several electrical contractors he works with that are well-versed in SIP construction.  He said that basically the only sub that needs to be familiar with SIPs is the electrical guy, since plumbing won't be in exterior walls, etc.

I've read a couple things that is making me question that statement.  One is drywall.  I read that fire code for drywall over SIP is 2 5/8" sheets.  To my knowledge, that's not typical, but I could be wrong on that.  Drywall is cheap, I'm not concerned about it, but it is something that we'd need to make sure the drywallers are aware of..

I was reading on the SIP learning center thread here that hanging cabinets on SIP walls requires some additional steps.  At first glance I don't think we'll have any cabinets hung on outside walls, but it's another thing I didn't realize.

Are there any other things I should be aware of that I would need to do with SIP construction vs. stick framing?  When I start getting bids, I want to make sure I'm comparing apples to apples...

jerky
Hanging standard 30" high cabinets have not been an issue in any of the homes I have built. My current kitchen has 3 sip walls with full cabinets. If it is a concern have your builder/installer of the cabinets use toggle type screws which go through the osb and attach. Also 1/2" drywall is all that is required to meet fire code. One layer. A layer of 5/8" type X drywall is used on the garage/house wall. Maybe he was talking about that wall. Typically as your builder said is that electrical is the only trade really affected when installing in sips. Heating is affected as well but only in design with a smaller system and and HRV.

thanks for the reply!  To clarify, the things I mentioned in my original post were things I read online while researching the product - not things that the builder told me.  The builder is the one that said there really isn't too much to be concerned about, but I wanted to find out for myself.  I'll have to see if I can find the site that quoted 2 layers of 5/8".  I know I didn't imagine it...well...I hope... 

I don't know if I specified this, but we picked our builder a while ago, because he's someone I've known for years and I've seen his work.  Since then, we decided to go with SIPs.  There is an Insulspan....franchise, I guess...in town - he gets the 8x24 panels from Insulspan, does all of the design & installation, then hands it over to the builder.  He also does ICF's, so we're most likely going to have him do an ICF basement, SIP wall & roof, and then hand it over to our builder for the rest.

1/2" drywall or equivilant is in the building code as a 15 min. "thermal" barrier for EPS insulation, 5/8" type "X" is not a requirement

Don't forget about ventilation. If the house is really tight, like it should be an HRV/ERV should be installed to control air quality and heat/cooling losses. If your using air for heating and cooling this can be part of that system but if your using a hydronic heating system you should have a seperate air exchange system as well. This was the biggest mistake of the past that had a negative impact on the SIP's industry as a whole. In the past many SIP's houses were built without taking into account the need for makeup air with a very tight envelope. Backdrafting of furnaces, woodstoves and over working of ventilating appliances were effected as well. Exhaust fans for things like bathrooms, stove hoods and dryers struggled with the negetive pressure they created within the house and as a result did not provide the rated CFM of exhaust. In one case, whenever the homeowner would put on the bathfan their woodstove would backdraft into the house. Moisture would build up in the house and create mold problems as well, creating what was called the sick house syndrome.
Today their are great systems designed for just that reason and should be an essential element of any tightly built home, especially SIP's. I would not even consider building a SIP's house without one. So the heating guy while downsizing your heating and cooling system should also be figuring in the best method of incorporating ventilation for the house as well. Not all HVAC guys understand HRV/ERV systems so make sure he is on the ball with this one. Installed cost depending on design should be around $3,500-$5,000 for a simple 2,000/sqft home as a seperate system. If you can incorporate this into an air heating/cooling system the cost will be much less.

Tom Pittsley
[email protected]
www.eebt.org

I hung cabinets on one of my SIP walls. I was a little concerned that they wouldn't hold on to the 7/16" skin. I drew on the wall where my cabinets were to be hung. I then cut, glued, screwed and nailed 1/2" plywood over where the cabinets would hang (cheating in the edges 2" all around). I then hung the drywall around the plywood. This gave me almost 1" of wood to screw into. Probably over kill but it didn't take me too long and made me feel better. Which is nice.

I think that makes sense - I'd rather have overkill than cabinets crashing to the floor..  I don't think we're going to end up with any cabinets hung on the exterior sip walls, but if we do, I think I'll go the same route.  Thanks for the tip!

Here's one we didn't see coming. Seems everyone missed that the architect measured my kitchen cabinet height from the bottom of my floor joists making my windows about 11 7/8" too high. This caused the window openings to cut right through my horizontal support. We came up with the solution of a large box beam that also solved my lighting problem, the kitchen ceiling is 24' high! Sean

Sean;

The great thing about custom homes is they are "one of a kind" , the bad thing is they are " one of a kind"
having never been built before there is risk for errors, but "desperation is the mother of invention", somtimes mistakes end on a positive note.
Great job in the solution

There are no subs that should be impacted. If your electrical guy is a SIP wimp, furr out the walls. If your plumbing guy is a SIP wimp, run the loop with PEX. I think if we do our prep correctly and have had our meetings with the subs you know their expectations. Any problems or additional labor can be overcome with an increase in the quote of the sub.

Meet first with the key subs and define the expectations as far as the shell goes. Invite input from the subs. No one should have real objections if you have framed the SIP structure correctly...

Do you really have 6'8" above the stairs?  I keep thinking that one day I'll beat perspective and be able to eyeball vertical, horizontal and parallel but I've never yet succeeded so it may just be that the stairs look low in the photo.

Do you really have 6'8" above the stairs?  I keep thinking that one day I'll beat perspective and be able to eyeball vertical, horizontal and parallel but I've never yet succeeded so it may just be that the stairs look low in the photo.