I might be building in an area where only asphalt shingles would be allowed per subdivision rules.  If I went with metal sips for the roof, how big of a pain would this be?  I have seen posts discussing gluing the shingles to the roof (that sounds terribly labor intensive = expensive) and also installing sleepers and an osb skin.

1. How is this normally handled?  (my house will be located in central AL)
2. If the shingles are glued down, how in the world do you handle replacing them when they inevitably fail?
3. Right now the sleeper/osb skin sounds like the best option as it seems like it would make replacing the roof much easier.  However, that would make the roof that much thicker.  How do you avoid a massive out-of-scale fascia?
4. Would the sleeper system technically make it a cold roof?
5. If sleepers would make it a cold roof, would you expect the shingles to last longer?

I plan to live in this house the rest of my life (and I'm not old) so whatever I build I want it to last and be easy to maintain.

Thanks!

I live in a subdivision that requires architectural asphalt or concrete tile, I do not recommend glued. We install with wafer head sharp point screws, direct to skin. The screw head is about the same diameter as a roofing shingle.My own home is installed using this method

This an aphalt shingle job over steel sips on a commercial job

awhite,

The most direct approach is to apply a self-adhering self-healing bituminous underlayment to the entire roof and then screw the shingles to the roof with #10 wafer head needle point screws per mfr spacing requirements. When it comes time to re-roof just back the screws out and seal the holes. I have seen this application work well in Florida. Some say the shingles will "cook" and curl, but they don't. Two minor issues to consider with this application are deviation from the product warranty and installers unfamiliarity.

I know this doesn't apply here, but do they make a steel SIP that has the right overlaps, galvanizing, etc to directly be the roof surface?

Our SIPs  can be used as the finished water tight roof by themselves, they are very industrial looking. There are other mfg.s that make insulated roofing panels with poor span capability, are aesthicaly pleasing , but rely on purlin support such as a red iron frame

jonr;

our warehouse is done with bare panels and roof as the finished walls/roof

Have you ever done this?  I can't imagine having to remove 1000's of screws and then sealing that many holes.

There is no reason to reseal holes

awhite,

No I have not. If you use metal SIPs its just something you have to accept. I would buy a very good quality shingle so I would not have to deal with it for quite a while.

There is a brand of '3 tab shingle' that are made of sheet metal with the colored stone granules bonded to them. They look just like a high end asphalt composite shingle and have a 50 year warranty. So it would be a one time installation. You could probably get your association to let you use those. See the link below. (cut & paste into your browser)

http://www.decra.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=95:shingle&catid=14:all-products&Itemid=110

Simon;

no doubt,  our deed resrictions only allow architectural shingle or tile roofs, but the archectural review commitee is allowing a stone coated steel barrel tile, made by Gerard (also makes stone coated shingles) it is very attractive

We suppied the panels for this duplex constructed by New Tribes Mission, they installed stone coated shingles to their project

Nice looking project Chris. In my opinion, Metal SIPs with some sort of finished metal roofing is an unbeatable combination for durability in any climate.

'Such a useful thread I've been looking this topic everywhere!'

[url=http://www.cadischmda.com] architectural metal [/url]

You can use a peel and stick membrane to seal the holes very quickly.

Chris,

How much of a premium are you paying on having asphalt shingles installed on steel sips?  My guess is the labor would be equal or less than installing the metal asphalt-look shingles, making that option all the more attractive.

And, while I'm at it, would you mind answering a couple other questions for me?

When you are furring out the walls with hat channel, do you also use it at the base of the wall and around doors and windows?

Do you anchor your cabinets to hat channel too?

Is it a concern to have copper pipes in contact with the sips?

Thanks!

awhite;

we use our own employees, but 2 men can do 16 sq. a day

awhite,

When using metal framing in general one should plan out where to use solid wood blocking to ensure proper fastening of decorative trim, window treatments, appliances, cabinets, door casings, control boxes, lighting fixtures, railings etc. One example of this is to install a continuous wood furring strip at the base of the wall to allow the base boards to be installed with a brad nailer. Using metal furring strips at the base of the wall is acceptable as well, but one would have to glue the base boards to the wall.

Cabinets should be anchored to solid wood blocking that is glued and screwed to the metal SIP wall between the furring channels and at the appropriate heights.

Metal SIPs usually have a factory painted finish so reaction to bare metal like copper piping is not a problem.