8.25 or 6.5 inch panels?
Last Post 25 Feb 2011 05:16 AM by cmkavala. 31 Replies.
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bp f150User is Offline
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23 Jan 2011 11:59 PM
A need a bit of help.

We will be building in approx. 4 months.  We have decided to use MgO SIPs.  However I have not yet decided if we are installing 6.5 inch panels or the 8.25 inch panels.  The upgraded panels will bring R-value from about R-24 to R-32 and for a cost of about 0.80$ per sq. foot (on our home it will reprensent about $1250).  I understand that there will be other added cost such as plates, splines, window bucks and jambs.  Also I have read that there is a diminishing return to higher R-value in airtight homes however I have never really read a scientific reports on this.


The roof will be a raised heel truss with R-55 to R-60 blown in cellulose

I have priced out different windows but I am almost decided on using a mix of triple panes (dual lo-e, argon filled) and dual panes on south and west facing windows for SHG.  An HRV will also be employed.

The house will be located in Norther Ontario Canada (long and cold winters).

This being said, I want to wisely spend money in order to build the best house for my familly.  So what are thoughts or experiences.

Also, does anyone know if there are financial incentives to build high performing building envelops, especially in Ontario and or Canada.


Thank you!
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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24 Jan 2011 08:27 AM
bp f150;

upcharge at the most should be $.50  the only cost difference is the foam
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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24 Jan 2011 09:23 AM
Posted By bp f150 on 23 Jan 2011 11:59 PM
[...]
Also I have read that there is a diminishing return to higher R-value in airtight homes however I have never really read a scientific reports on this.
[...]

That's backward.  There is always a diminishing return to increasing R-value, but making the house airtight makes the return diminish less, not more.  Let's say you have an extremely leaky house (lots of infiltration).  Let's say your walls start at R-2 (basically a sheet of plywood and drywall, no insulation).  In this case, you might be getting 50% of your heat transfer through the walls (conduction) and 50% through air leakage (infiltration).  If you bump up to R-15 by adding insulation, you've made a big difference in conduction and overall heat transfer.  Now only 10% of the heat transfer is coming through the walls, and 90% is from air infiltration.  You could bump up to R-30, and now only 5% is coming through the walls.  But it cost you a lot of money to get from R-15 to R-30, and you're only saving a little bit in energy, because you've got all that air coming in.  You'd get better bang for the buck by reducing air infiltration.  Once you've gotten the air infiltration to the point where it's roughly evenly matched with your insulation, then improving the insulation some more starts to make sense again.

Similarly, if you have a bunch of single-pane windows, most of your heat transfer is going to be through those, once you get the wall insulation up to around R-15.  You can go from R-15 to R-30, but you're still going to be limited by those windows.  Your money would be better spent on better windows.

You can do the same example with wall insulation vs. roof/attic insulation.  The best bang for the buck, usually, is to upgrade the poorest performing part of the building envelope, because that's where you're losing all your energy.  Don't improve one part of the envelope to the point where it's way, way, way better than the worst-performing part.

So if you've got a really tight house (which you should have with well-built SIPs), then you can make good gains by improving insulation in the building envelope.  But don't forget that windows, doors, foundation, and attic/roof are part of the building envelope.  Don't spend all your money on the walls -- spread it out so that everything is comparable, and you will get the best bang for the buck.  Adding interior thermal mass (e.g., concrete floors) might also be a better way to spend the money than going from, say, R-30 to R-60 in the walls, depending on your climate.

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24 Jan 2011 10:04 AM
We would be interested to quote on your project, we delivered in Northern Ontario, where are you located

Pierre Desjardins
450-546-9047
Banerpan Panels
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24 Jan 2011 12:00 PM
Hi use extreme caution  choosing a supplier (I found a supplier on this site) most are honest business people with a lot of great information 1 I paid 45,000 to and never recieved 1 panel nor my engineer 1 drawing... I would be happy to share my expierence with anyone who is interested, just send me a message... Pam 
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24 Jan 2011 10:06 PM
bp f150,

Personally if you can afford the $1250 I think it would be well spent, given the HDD's of Northern Ontario, and particularly important if you don't have access to cheap energy such as natrual gas (if you're in a rural area). The payback is much faster if you're on propane or electric. You also need to focus on design to optimize installation time, which translates into dollars saved assuming you're not building it yourself.  For example, sizing the floor heights such that you can use full blanks will save you a cut (time consuming) for each panel installed.  Trick is, if you're trying to save a buck and not order pre-cuts, to do it in such a way as to minimize the panel and EPS cuts, to reduce the cutting time.  It's not fast or fun cutting panels...

Good call on the windows, watch for high solar gain coefficient numbers. West windows are good for SGH if you are not concerned about heat gains in the summer (which you might not be given your location). You can opt for triple pane if you want; you're balancing between heat loss at night vs heat gains during the day. The triple panes we used (from Fibertec) were SGHC 0.46 and U 0.26. Better to change the coatings than the number of glazes to get the SGH.

Be careful on choosing the SIP, don't decide until you've talked to the manufacturer and make sure they will provide you with a Ontario Engineer's stamp or that their product has an Ontario Minister's Ruling. AFAIK there's only a few EPS SIPs that can be used here, and I'm not aware of any MgO SIPs that can be, unless you have a very loosy-goosey building department where you are. This is very important if your SIP isn't on a 16" on centre, since it won't meet the Ontario Building Code. I'm aware of one SIP manufacturer that builds their SIP 16" O.C. specifically to get around the OBC issue, but then you have increased thermal bridging. We ended up using Insulspan because of this, and they provided an Ontario stamp for us, and subsequently I believe they have an Ontario Minister's Ruling.

And no, there isn't any financial incentive to building a HP house in Ontario. Just went through it, we're close to wrapping up a 4350 square foot net zero energy house in Toronto. In fact, there's a dis-incentive, since many of the grants that were available at the time were geared for a retrofit, i.e. we tore down a 50 year old house to build, and we didn't qualify for the $10k incentive for geothermal, which made it very cost prohibitive. The only incentive you'll find is the feed-in tariff program for solar, if you opt to go that route to put solar panels on the roof and go into a 20 year contract with the province.

Chris,

$0.80/sqft is probably correct, the OP is probably referring to the 1.75" and not the board foot EPS pricing.

Victor
www.ecobuilthome.ca
A 4350sqft Net Zero Energy initiative
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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25 Jan 2011 02:50 AM
Posted By vkykam on 24 Jan 2011 10:06 PM
bp f150,

, Chris,

$0.80/sqft is probably correct, the OP is probably referring to the 1.75" and not the board foot EPS pricing.

Victor
www.ecobuilthome.ca
A 4350sqft Net Zero Energy initiative
Victor what are you talking about?

Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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25 Jan 2011 03:22 PM
Chris,

You were suggesting the foam upcharge to be $0.50; EPS typically costs more than $0.30/board foot, at least in this neck of the woods. The $0.80 upcharge per square foot for 1.75" additional thickness the original poster had talked about is consistent with the pricing difference I saw when getting quoted for SIPs for delivery here, as I had both 6", 8", and 10" panels quoted.

Victor
www.ecobuilthome.ca
A 4350sqft Net Zero Energy initiative
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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25 Jan 2011 05:45 PM
Victor;

yes, EPS is about 25 cents per board foot or 50 cents to increase to 2" additional thickness
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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25 Jan 2011 09:33 PM
Chris,

I'm jealous of your pricing, because here, checking two different national suppliers and a locally manufacturered one, it's not $0.25/board foot...  :(  I guess like everything else, we Canucks pay more for everything than our neighbours down south.

Victor
bp f150User is Offline
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30 Jan 2011 03:45 PM

Thank you for the replies.

Victor : Thank you for your expertice in house contruction in Ontario. I consulted the website for the house you mentionned and it seems very good that you where able to make it netzero house. The SIP company that I was looking into does not have Ontario stamps, however they will in the near future since they will be setting up shop in northern Ontario. 

What splining practice was used to join the panels on your project ? What thickness panel did you end up using ? And do you have any regrets on your choice?

I to am jealous of the pricing our friends to the south have.

I am open to feedback from others on my original questions.

Thanks again.

vkykamUser is Offline
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30 Jan 2011 09:53 PM
Setting up in Ontario doesn't guarantee a stamp, but I'd be interested in finding out the company if you don't mind sharing.

Net Zero is achieveable in this provice, given the feed in tariff incentive.  Any person building should give it some consideration for the solar panels, and to optimize the house for it.

We used the 2X splines, since they were the only that was tested by CCMC; I don't know if any of the other options are acceptable to the Ontario building code.  We used a combination of 8" and 6" panels, the 8" used facing into an exterior location, and a few 6" panels in a storage area that's unconditioned.

No regrets on the choice, just some optimization needed to get the install time (and hence price) down.  There were some manufacturing variances with Insulspan, with the thickness varying by up to 1/4", which made getting the splines in harder without ripping them down.  In fact, I would use SIP over ICF from an insulating performance perspective and from a cost perspective for our climate, particularly for above grade.

Victor
www.ecobuilthome.ca
A 4350sqft cold climate Net Zero Energy initiative.
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30 Jan 2011 11:24 PM
check out the heat gains/loads for each system, and find costs of energy saving. I was looking at urethane SIPs, thinking between the r26 3.5" or r42 6.5". There is about a $2k difference. However my heat load for 3.5 was 1500 BTU higher then the 6.5". This equaled about a $40 svings a year the program told me (i used 2 to see if I got similar results, and I did). This gave me a 50 year pay off. Once infiltration is minimized, r values do have a diminishing return. I have read its around r30, so this r26/r42 comparision basically proves that.
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31 Jan 2011 11:02 AM

Victor,

Thank you for the response. The company in question is Metaform Building Systems. Do you have any knowledge of them? I was considering the above and bellow grade application.  They to use a 2x spline (PWF - below grade / SPF - above grade) just like you mentionned. In our area, the building inspector looks to roof and floor systems for engineering and makes sure points loads are distibuted to the walls, floor cripples, to foundation walls and then footing. When talking with him, he said from the technical data that he did not object to using the SIP panels for the intend use. However I want to make a good decision for my family and checking account and not just have the cities approval.

Izerarc,

Thanks for a comparison to your project, it is intersting to see that the ROI is 50 years (if the price of fuel/electric stays the same as the salemans always add when trying to sell you the upgraded panel). I would like to calculate heat/cool loads, unfortunatly I do not have much experience with this and from what I understand there are programs that use algorythmes to calculate it.  Do you have any suggestions that could lead me in the right direction ? I believe that my ROI would much less since our climate is very cold (long and cold winters)

The following values are average daily temps in degrees Celcius.

   Nov         Dec         Jan         Feb         Mar
   -4         -13.2       -17.5      -14.4       -7.7

Thank you!

BanerpanUser is Offline
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31 Jan 2011 12:12 PM
Izerac. we can provide you your panels, we would be please to quote for your project, call us

Ron Edelkoort
705-636-9746
mobile 705-783-0018
Emsdale, Ont.
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31 Jan 2011 04:12 PM

I've looked at Titanwall briefly, there's some talk of it around here, but in the city here, building departments are fairly strict on the stamps, so I didn't look any further.  It certainly looks interesting that it's not a wood sheathing.  Have you had a quote from them?  If so, do you mind sharing the costs?  I'd like to compare them against a "traditional" SIP panel in terms of price.

For the windows, there's the U/R value, and there's air infiltration, which can be a big difference.  Our house is 20+ fibertec windows, and the casements are performing phenominally (triple pane, U 0.13 fixed, U 0.18 operable), but the 3 sliders we have in the basement, there's a draft coming in when we're hitting colder temperatures like today.  So, as a start, I'd look at positive pressure close windows such as casements, and then look at whether there's any value in upgrading to better performing windows.  The window selection can come at a slightly later stage, perhaps after an initial heat loss calc done for whatever your minimum choice of windows, and then from there work your way up to see if there's any benefit by upping the insulative value.

Victor
www.ecobuilthome.ca
A 4350sqft cold climate Net Zero Initiative

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31 Jan 2011 04:26 PM
Victor, we have the Ontario stamp if you need it, our engineer are from Ottawa

Ron Edelkoort
705-636-9746
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31 Jan 2011 05:14 PM
Baner-thanks for the offer, but I find it highly doubtful you can be competitive, coming from CA to the states, with imports, shipping, etc.
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31 Jan 2011 05:58 PM
We are not from California, we are Canadian, our distributor is in emsdale, North pof Huntsville, you can talk to one of our installer the cie is Kealy and tackaberru log homes, phone no. 613-227-4663, they intalled foundations panels near Sudbury, talk to Adam or Paul
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31 Jan 2011 06:57 PM
I know you are from Canada, which is what I meant by cost to ship/import into the states.
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