I have used Insteel where shotcrete was applied to both sides in the field.  We made the mistake of shotcreting in the Southern summer heat.  The heat rushed us to trowel before the concrete set and the heat slowed us down.

What I have in mind is precast where the weather does not affect quality or the workers.  I like CarbonCast but will have to find a manufacturer within about 300 miles to hold down shipping costs.  See http://altusprecast.com/

Buck3647,

My use of CIC would be for the residential market in Florida.  I want a wall system that easily provides protection from strong winds, termites, fires and can have real stucco applied directly to the concrete without having to use mesh and paper.    I can use metal hat channels to furr out the interior side of the load bearing walls.  This is why I am trying to find a CIC precast manufacturer reasonably close to the Ocala FL area.  So if there are any suppliers of CIC nearby then please let me know.

Jonr,

Thank you.  I have taken another look and now see Jacksonville has a manufacturering plant.  I not sure if the Polk County plant is in business yet.  I have sent an inquiry through their contact form.  Let us see what they tell me.  By the way, it appears that both Jacksonville and Polk County are about the same distance from Ocala.  After I determine that these companies do make the CIC panels then I will ask if they will sell to the residential market.  I have learned some companies will avoid doing business with residential customers.  I have been told that the quantity is too small and there are too many problems with homeowners changing their minds.

When I used the In-Steel system we shotcreted and stuccoed both sides.  But this meant that the electrical lines had to be in conduits.  To me it is easier not to use chases and conduits.  Using furring strips allows the homeowner up to the last minute to decide where they want the electrical outlets.  Also furring strips do not require any new learning by the electricians.  Years ago I quit doing wiring plans unless required by code.  Instead I walk through the house in the "framing stage" with the homeowner and the electrical contractor to be sure no one forgets about some special applicance, etc.  The contractor marks the location of each outlet and then sends in his crew.  The homeowner and I make a final check of the electrical work and other utilities before the drywall goes on.  This system may not be pre-planned and professional but it works well for me with custom homes.  By the way, some homeowners can not read a wiring plan well enough to determine if it has included everything.

In order to avoid termites from eating the paper on the drywall I plan to use paperless drywall.  From what I hear drywallers do not seem to have any problems with the paperless type.

I always appreciate input from everyone.  I never assume that I have all the knowledge that I need.  In other words, I try to learn every day so that I can do a better job.

Jonr,
Using furring strips allows the use of electricity along any wall just like in conventional framing.  Marketing new wall assemblies that did not allow electrical outlets on an exterior load-bearing wall could be fatal to acceptance.  I always try to research thoroughly any building technology before I use it.  When possible I will attend classes so I will know what to expect.  Then I do the smart thing.  I have my client hire an experienced company recommended by the Manufacturer.  This usually works well.  In a few cases, the experienced company was not reliable and my architectural students and I finished out the task.  In some cases I had a well-written manual and in other cases I had to use my memory from classes.

Jere,

I have used Superior Walls for residental construction.  No furring required with their walls since they have cavities between the studs for the utilities.

I normally try to use a building system that lends itself to super insulation.  I think Superior Walls has enough insulation in their walls for below grade use and spray foam can be added between the studs for above grade use.  So far, I would not hesitate to use Superior Walls again.

Bruce,

Some years ago at a trade show in Orlando I saw a manufacturer displaying metal forms with polystyrene insulation in the middle.

I really like cast-in-place concrete walls as long as I can be there to monitor quality.  I do agree with you that it should cost less to do cast-in-place walls than precast.  Charges for shop drawings, engineering stamps and transporting would be eliminated for cast-in-place walls in some areas.  Although there are several foundation wall contractors with metal forms in the areas of interest I have not found anyone that can cast concrete on both sides of polystyrene.

I am quite familiar with the Thermomass system but again I have not found anyone close enough.  If anyone knows a company or contractor that can do Thermomass or cast-in-place CIC in the Southeast region, please let me know.  Most of the projects that I either design or am asked to assist with are open to new ideas and methods.  Availability and cost are usually the deciding factor. 

Jonr,

I think cast-in-place Concrete-Insulation-Concrete (CIC) walls will work well in high wind areas that are infested with termites.  And I think CIC will lend itself to having stucco applied at a reasonable price since it should take no more than two coats to get a quality job.  With 2" of concrete + 4" of polystyrene + 2" of concrete I think the energy savings will be there.

One concern of mine is that in the Central Florida area where my next design is due to be built has homes with only 14' between them.  One serious fire could burn a row of wood houses.  So with the storms and fires in mind I am also interested in using concrete for the roof.  So far I know about Insul-Deck, Lite-Deck, WRCS, and prestress, precast, hollow-core planks.  (I just found out at the SEBC show in Orlando that hollow-core could be used on a 5 to 12 pitch roof.  I thought that it could be used only for flat floors and flat roofs.)

Now my question to everyone is this:  What other technology should I consider for a residential concrete roof?

Jonr,

That is a great question.  At this point in time I do not know the answer.  But you can bet that before I use this system I will make every effort to find out.  My guess is that since the 4" of foam in the middle will be covered by the 2" of concrete on each side and also be sitting on a concrete footer, it might be safe from termites.  Now if I can eliminate using any wood for the structure, then all that is left for the termites to eat would be the trim work and furniture.  I believe the safest bet would be to use borate treated foam.  I understand that termites can not develop immunity to it since it is a desiccant and not a poison.