Any suggestions out there.  Not many use Pex around here.  I like the concept.  My only concerns include:

Fittings - issues in the past with them breaking
Visible stubouts - what to do about the red/blue tubing sticking out of the floor/wall
clamping options - it seems like there are a bunch of ways to attach pex to their fittings.  I don't know which one is best and I don't know why the manufacturers cannot stick to one superior design.

I've got no problem with copper, other than it's expensive, more labor intensive, needs insulating. 

If any of you have suggestions or opinions, I'd be happy to hear them.

Sean

Soft copper can develop pin holes if the water is on the acid side.  I have seen that happen.  City water is buffered enough there is usually no worry about copper not lasting.

The Pex system that I have seen that has the best fittings is Uponor.  The pipe is PEX-A and the fittings work with the memory inherent in the PEX-A.  One of the few systems that can have fittings in inaccessible locations like in walls.  This system can use a trunk line or manifold with home runs.

Alton @ Auburn dot Edu

I've used a little of both and I avoid copper whenever possible. Pex takes far less labor and has fewer leaks.

As Alton suggested, check out Uponor (formerly known as Wirsbo) aquapex pipe and propex fittings. That is what I plan on using when I DIY the plumbing in my new home. 1" main line to the manifold, then hot and cold 1/2" home run lines to each fixture.

If you are concerned about the color of the pipe, just run all white or just white pipe where it may be exposed like a toilet. Under a sink cabinet shouldn't be an issue either way.

http://www.uponor-usa.com

I've already purchased a used expander tool on ebay similar to the one below (an older model with 1/2", 3/4" and 1" heads - only the 3/4" head had ever been used).

http://www.uponor.ca/Header/Service...-Tool.aspx

Propex hand expander in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxuMq72f0nE

Propex battery operated expander in operation:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9x_D_VxT_Q

Visible stubouts - what to do about the red/blue tubing sticking out of the floor/wall

There are copper stubout elbows or ells so everyone can see what they expect to see sticking out of the wall.

Fittings - issues in the past with them breaking

Some fitting types and suppliers have had essentially no problems. Probably not as many as bad solder joints, for example.

Going forward, I would probably choose PE-RT where specs allow.

Thanks guys for the insight so far.

I talked to the pluming inspector today. He said Illinois just approved PEX a few years ago for distribution lines. That's probably why not too many people around here use it. He did, however, make an important suggestion in regards to Illinois code. He said that toilets and lavatories require 3/8" Pex and tubs require 1/2". After hearing that, I was thinking to myself, whup-te-du, I was going to run everything in 1/2". But then he said that this includes the fittings and valves. The crimp type fittings choke down the line. 1/2" tubing gets choked to 3/8" and 3/4" tubing gets choked to 1/2". Only the ProPex system maintains the same diameter as the tubing. So, I tell him that I was planing on using aquapex and the expander type connections in a "home run" configuration. Then he said to make sure the manifold valves are full flow valves and that most pre-made manifolds choke down the flow. He said that I might have to make my own manifolds. Considering I need about 34 ports, that could be expensive and time consuming.

Now I'm back on the fence. I've got open web floor trusses, so placing and soldering copper tubing shouldn't be that tough. Of course, I could just ignore the code and go with the manabloc. It obviously works, or they wouldn't be selling them in this configuration . . .

Posted By jonr on 20 Dec 2011 12:33 PM
Going forward, I would probably choose PE-RT where specs allow.

Why?

PEX is a pleasure to work with, is easy to configure and change. I use Zurn - which is carried locally - and have had absolutely no problems with it. In places where the tubing will show, you can use brass or coppers stubs, or paint it a metallic color, or cover it with tubing - all of which I did in my bathroom where all the fixtures and fittings are brushed nickel - so the tubing matches.

I used a home run pex system and apollo crimp tool with the copper rings. They worked very well, I was even able to spin the fitting inside the pex, when I had to loosen or tighten the fitting and not one leak. I have only one fitting in a wall or ceiling, not counting the outside silcocks. I used electrical conduit schedule 40 ninety degree elbows often to aid in making corners.

With the valved manifolds I can just add one fixture at a time.

Where PE-RT is approved, it is less $. And more flexible. What do people think of the plastic fittings (vs brass)? I'm starting to use those too.

I've replaced most of the old copper with PEX in our 1840's farm house and I've never had a leak over the 5 years I've been using it. We had a bathroom in a addition and it required some fancy elaborate twists and turns to install the original copper and the PEX was super easy. Since we drain the pipes for th winter to close up the house I used a combination of the twist fit connections in additon to crimped copper rings since that allows easy draining of of sections of the plumbing in the Fall. The ease of use allowed me to DIY all my plumbing, allowing me more time for projects/vacation. I'd use it again if I had to do it over.

That said, I had all the old iron pipes of our in town bungalow ripped out and replaced with copper when we brought it 20 years ago and none of that has leaked either! (Touch wood). I've heard that pin hole leaks have been a problem in the Mid-Atlantic area, but it hasn't affected us.br />

I'm new to it, and have had some problems. The crimping tool I bought (Lowe's) came with a gage that turned out to be off. I kept getting leaks, so I bought a different gage, re-set the tool to the new gage, and so far, so good. I've only done one small project so far.

I used PEX in my new house. I used the Uponor/Wirsbo AquaPEX tubing and the Viega PEX Press tools and fittings with a Manabloc. This was my first time doing anything with PEX. I took my time cutting the PEX to make sure the cuts were straight, and I took my time on the ends to make sure they were perfect. I did use copper for the showers behind the wall and coverted to PEX down in the basement. The only exposed lines I would have had were for the toilets. For those I terminated the PEX under the floor on a drop ear. I then stubbed up a 3" or so piece of threaded pipe to the shut off valve. Let me know if you'd like to see pics, I think it made for a nice application.

That is another reason that I like the Uponor system.  No worry about gauges and crimping tools.

I think it's made from nickel but it's shiny like chrome and matches the escutcheon and supply line perfectly

Thanks guys for the input so far. Have any of you guys used the Milwalkee cordless expander? I was wondering how it compared to the hand operated one. The cordless is 400 bucks !!!

Also, the longest distance between the water heater and a sink (master bathroom) is about 50 feet. How long do you think hot water would take to get to that sink using 1/2" pex. I'm wondering if I need to install a small water heater in a laundry room that's pretty much in the middle of the house.

Lastly, I'm pretty sure the cost of running my house home-run style with PEX would be much more than if I do copper. If it costs 2000 to do it in pex, but only 1000 to do it in copper, would you still choose pex?? Labor isn't the issue, since I'll be the labor. I need to decide pretty soon so I can get things ordered. I have to insulate a drive under garage. The garage us under the master bedroom/bath. So I need to rough all that plumbing in the next couple weeks so I can get the cellulose in.

Thanks again,

Sean

...about 50 feet. How long do you think hot water would take to get to that sink using 1/2" pex

That's about a half gallon. What is the flow rate on the sink faucet?