Of course R15 Roxul is firmer than R19- it's completely on the other end of the density scale!

But R15 Roxul is still compressible, and the edges even more so: They are intentionally spun at lower density than in the centers for ease of friction fitting, and would accommodate the "picture framing" bump outs & stud-splash pretty well even if it's a half-inch displacement. There may be places where it requires some trimming, but it can go pretty fast trimming it in-situ with a bread knife.

I find it odd arguing in favor of a batt solution here since I'm usually a strong advocate of blown in most applications. But in a sub-grade app with an inch of foam on the exterior, the performance hit from less than perfect batt fit is considerably lower, and the performance requirements aren't nearly what they are in all above-grade assembly. If there was a higher performance standard they were trying to hit I'd be pushing the all-iso solution a bit harder.

The RR-1005 table 2 calls out R15 whole-wall for foundations in this location, which means the economic arguments for going that high get pretty thin if you're hitting that R15 with more-expensive methods like all closed cell foam and BIB fiberglass. But going higher than R15 might still make sense with an reclaimed-foam DIY solution. With R5-6 foam and 24" o.c. 2x4 & unface R13 batts (or compressed unfaced R19s), you're there, if you do a decent job on the batts. But 3" reclaimed roofing iso can also get you there for comparable or less money.

You can buy pickup loads of reclaimed iso (some in better shape than others) off the Cincinnati craigslist if you have a 3/4 ton pickup with some tie-downs (or a small box van) to cart it away with:

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mat/3676495542.html

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mad/3654697761.html

For roofing iso figure on at least ~R5.5/inch of thickness (any facer), though some could be in the R6/inch range.

If you find iso that is too thick to TapCon to the wall with furring trap it in place with a studwall with the studs turned sideways, resting the bottom of the iso on the bottom plate of the studwall.

That's interesting about the roxul density varying. I didn't know or perceive that. However, having just done a substantial amount of fitting Roxul to closed cell spray foam, I will tell you that the trimming is slow and painful. If someone is planning this, you have been forewarned. You can either do it yourself or have it done and run the risk of the installer finding a shortcut. And, they probably will find a shortcut at the expense of performance.

I'll take your word for it on the PITA factor then. (I've fitted it somewhat easily to fairly rough masonry before, but not closed cell foam.)

Since the reclaimed-foam resource exists in Cincinatti, that's probably the better option from both a labor & performance point of view, using FrothPak or other small ccSPF kit for sealing/insulating the transitions.

I'm going to see if I can get a hold of the people on CL to go and actually "see" the foam. From the pictures they look a little beat up which is fine as long as they don't have tons of holes in them. The only other thing with the CL adds are they are Not XPS but ISO. The Building Science papers talk more about XPS than ISO particularly if you don't put any other type of insulation over top of it. The ISO was discussed more for the upper areas of the basement that are not covered by the ground and if you don't cover them with drywall.

I will call that web site you listed as well today.

Awaiting on the quote from the guy last night.

If I were to do the walls myself the Froth-pak 200 would probably take care of my rim joist giving me 2" of foam. The boards new and the Froth-pak would set me back right at 1K.

I agree the stuff in the craigslist pics looked more beat up than I'd like too, but people trading in that stuff usually get more. This may just be the dregs that his usual contractor-customers passed over, or it may be a one-off deal.

Cutting up the beat up roofing iso for a cut'n'cobble rough fit on the rim joists & foundation sill then sealing the edges & corners with a 12 board foot FrothPak is probably substantially less money, but a bit more time consuming.

Ok, So I got three quotes on having my basement spray foamed with closed cell foam. I had each company quote me two ways: option A) do just the rim joist to 2" and option B) for them to do the whole wall with 2"CCF.

Company A:
Option A) $960
Option B) $2520

Company B:
Option A) $770
Option B) $1950

Company C:
Option A) $730
Option B) $3200

Out of the three companies I like company B the most and not just for their price.

Looks like I may be having this done to save myself some time considering I would only be saving myself maybe $900. Plus, they said they could have the whole basement done in less than one day!

Do you have some way to verify the thickness of the sprayed foam?  Since most foam contractors charge by the board foot, it would be nice to know that the thickness is correct on average.  Some foam contractors will touch up thin areas if it is brought to their attention before they leave the job.

The framing is going to be kept off the foundation wall by 1" using 2x4 studs so I should be able to just measure where the foam comes out to. Plus I have seen them using rods marked to the depth the insulation needs to be.

I will be there when this is done to make sure the depth is at least 2".

I've seen the installers use pointed probes of different lengths to gauge the thickness.