Nevermind, I found it.....

http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html

http://conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html
BG63 or BG65

High quality tape will last far longer than most caulks - use 3M-8065, Siga Wigluv (https://sigatapes.com) or Tescon Vana (https://foursevenfive.com/product-category/air-sealing-system/)
ZIP tape is fine with ZIP sheathing.

(Just talked to one recent client in Zone 5b - heat + AC + hot water + lights + plug loads = $13/month - 2200 SF with 8.9 KW PV. $13 is the base charge)

Thats what I'm hoping to accomplish...

Does this work for under the basement slab?
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foundation-protection/2-aged-eps-foam-for-eifs-use/p-1444429240407-c-9532.htm?tid=-7226283609213484082

Price sounds about right - .36/SF but the size might be a PIA. We buy from commercial roofing suppliers like Roofing Depot in Moline or ABC in Davenport. Many foams are used extensively in commercial roofing so those suppliers carry them, but may not sell to homeowners.

What size would you typically use for something like that?

standard size is 4x8 sheets

Posted By Bob I on 03 Oct 2016 10:17 AM
Price sounds about right - .36/SF but the size might be a PIA. We buy from commercial roofing suppliers like Roofing Depot in Moline or ABC in Davenport. Many foams are used extensively in commercial roofing so those suppliers carry them, but may not sell to homeowners.

I'll check in with them. Worst case I can get my GC to buy it for me if necessary. Menards also has this, but looks like double the price / sqft http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/insulation-panels/f250-2-x-4-x-8-r-10-extruded-polystyrene-insulation/p-1444450502427-c-5779.htm?tid=1309232422459409467

Yes - XPS - (eXpanded Poly Styrene, as opposed to Extruded Poly Styrene) - very bad global warming potential due to the chemicals used, and a good deal more expensive.

We have a winner?

http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/insulation-panels/2-x-4-x-8-r-8-expanded-polystyrene-foam-insulation/p-1444435971902-c-5779.htm?tid=-465246961092941749

And the cheapest by far. Thinking of using this under my basement slab, and my garage slab that I want to radiant heat. Does it require plastic sheeting over the top to keep the concrete off of it?

yes, but not to keep the concrete off the foam, but to 1) air seal the floor (yes, air does leak through dirt, which is, obviously, porus) and, as important, to keep moisture out of your basement. You'll want to use minimum of 6 mil and Tape The Joints!

Tape the joints of the XPS and the poly?

At least the poly - we do the top layer of foam in some cases - your decision & probably not necessary if the joints are tight and you stagger the joints. Don't forget the 2" X4" piece up the wall to separate the floor from the wall - keeps the floor at room temp.

Sorry for all the questions but thanks so much!

So aside from the typical code min build, I plan to:

1. 2" XPS and poly under basement floor and around the perimeter. 2" XPS under garage floor and driveway if doing radiant in driveway. Assuming the poly is probably not necessary for garage and driveway.

2. Gasket on top of footings, under poured foundation wall. (Should I do this where the wall will be framed on top of the footings also? Most of the back of the basement will be framed as it's a walkout)

3. Spray foam from the top of the poured foundation walls to the top of the rim joists, just under the sub floor.

4. Tape the exterior OSB (or whatever they use) joints with quality tape. (Not sure about the Zip sheathing? I was under the impression it would require framing changes to use this since it's not structural?)

5. Caulk all inside cavities before insulation

6. Dense pack cellulose insulation in 6" walls. (Blown in, not spray in, right?)

7. I noticed the gasket website also showed gaskets for windows, doors etc. Not sure if it's worth the extra effort over expanding foam.

1. 4" is better
2. To be clear, the gaskets go between the concrete and the wood PT sill.
4. ZIP is OSB with a painted finish so the tape will stick. It is as structural as any OSB sheathing product.
Since moisture has been detected in double stud walls (but not to a dangerous level and it seems to dry out fairly quickly in early summer) we've changed to fir CDX plywood and tape it with one of the three tapes I mentioned which will stick to bare wood.
6. Dense pack is applied through a hose - blown in, but not a loose blow like you would use in your attic. It's applied dry, unlike damp spray cellulose which also works, but then needs to dry out.

1. OK, it's not expensive to if two layers of 2" are better, it works for me.
2. I was confused here - so nothing is recommended between the footings and the poured wall? That makes things easier.
4. We're not doing a double stud wall, so would fir CDX be better than ZIP?

2. If you want to get into the details, we coat the footings (before the walls forms are set) with a latex concrete sealer (2 coats) which helps stop moisture from rising up the concrete wall, and ultimately helps keep the basement and house dryer.
4. ZIP is fine.

Thank you!

You're welcome. Enjoy your new home!

The menards eps shouldnt be used under your slab, it wont have adequate compressive strength. Its really low grade stuff with recycled content compared to virgin stock eps.

And if you caulk your stud bays your going to put in alot of man hours and go through an enormous amount of sealant, 1 tube will go maybe 1 1/2 stud bays, around 30 lf, a can of one component foam will put out like 700-900 linear feet.