Sounds like you have a crown in your sills. Either log movement or installation. Most companies have a felt insert that fits in the window jamb to try and stop this air infiltration. Not sure if Okna has them but you may be able to find them since most windows use the same profile. Do you have block and tackle balances or tape? A cheesey way too try and see if this is the problem, is to buy some foam tape and install it on the bottom of each sash.

Get a thermal camera and look around the whole house.....they are like $200 now and work fantastic.

I got .79 ACH on our ICF house we are finishing up. We ran the test after drywall was up but not mudded. Where ever there was a cold spot in the camera I foamed it in. I had cold spots in corners of the ceiling where the blown-in insulation must not have reached. I drilled a small hole in the dry wall and put foam up in there. The whole was covered later when they mudded.

I did it before trim so the windows could be touched up. When around the floor tuss mounts.

These cheap cameras plug into your cell phone and display on it's screen so you can see and save pictures.

Posted By Dilettante on 08 Feb 2019 06:22 AM

Posted By loghomebuilder on 07 Feb 2019 05:35 PM
So my blower door came back at 1050 CFM at 50 negative pressure. For my size house the guy said that's the best score he's seen in his 12 years of doing the rest. But I'm wondering what you guys think? I personally find that impossible to believe because it just feels so much colder and draftier than any other house I've been in. Is that really that good of a score? I assume you need to know the square footage or cubic feet of air in my house wouldn't you? My house is a 40x40 foot square, full basement, and a second story that is roughly have of the area, 20x40, with the other 20x40 half being open to above. The entire roof structure is a cathedral ceiling. So going off of square footage may not be the most accurate way to see if I have a good blower door number. My cubic feet of airspace is roughly 29,800, and 42,700 if you count the basement (which was not sealed off during the test.) I f

What was the actual ACH rating.
Because 1050 CFM on a 1000 sq/ft home is going to mean something significantly different than a 1050 CFM on a 6000 sq/ft home.

I was not given an ACH rating. However I just looked up a formula for the calculation and it seems volume is what is important not square footage. If I'm doing the formula right my rating is 1.47 ACH. What's a "good" one. What's a code min? What level do you need active ventilation?

Code minimum is most places I look is 7 ACH50 (Which must be like living in a screened porch).
"Moderate" is around 5 ACH50. And somewhere between 5 and 3 is where mechanical ventilation is code-mandated.
"Good" is 3 ACH50 or below
Passivehaus standard is 0.6 or below.
If you're pulling a 1.5 or less, you're doing GREAT.

ACH can be calculated by multiplying the CFM by 60, then dividing by the building volume in cubic feet.

Posted By Dilettante on 09 Feb 2019 10:55 AM
Code minimum is most places I look is 7 ACH50 (Which must be like living in a screened porch).
"Moderate" is around 5 ACH50. And somewhere between 5 and 3 is where mechanical ventilation is code-mandated.
"Good" is 3 ACH50 or below
Passivehaus standard is 0.6 or below.
If you're pulling a 1.5 or less, you're doing GREAT.

ACH can be calculated by multiplying the CFM by 60, then dividing by the building volume in cubic feet.

Yes I used that formula and I included the basement air volume in that calculation. It's more like 2 ACH without the basement. I honestly wonder if the guys equipment was not calibrated right or something. It's a log home with lots of cracks, the windows don't exactly shut right, and I feel drafts. Maybe it's my radiant floor not mixing the incoming air with the warmed air well enough?? So I might have another company do another test. But should I be looking for a heat recovery ventilator if it is that good?? Is there air quality test that can be done?

If you're REALLY at a 1.5 or so, you should be looking into mechanical ventilation.

And if you get a new blower door test, check window areas for leaks and the like.

Should make it easy to see what's leaking around windows and what's not.

Also, cracks in logs or chinking do not always equal air leaks.