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B_Edwards
New Member
Posts:37
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| 01 Sep 2012 10:57 AM |
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I spaced all the text in that last post why is it in one paragrahp? Edited it three times and still together? |
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Dana1
Senior Member
Posts:6991
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| 04 Sep 2012 05:21 PM |
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Sealing up the basement-to-attic chase is recommended- it's at least part of the reason the basement reeks, since it pulls in humid outdoor air into the uninsulated basement (or worse, batt-insulated basement studwall without foam that takes on ground moisture too.)
An inch of rigid foam on the basement walls + an R13 (unfaced batts) studwall will probably be cost-effective. The foam keeps the foam/fiber interface above the wintertime dew point, but is permeable enough to keep it from driving ground moisture higher in the wall, and will dry to the interior. Putting an inch of foam under the stud-plates to keep the stud plate above the summertime dew point and keep it from wicking water if you go that route.
If you dig up the old slab it's worth putting down 1" of XPS (or 1- 1.5" of EPS) and 6-10 mil poly under the new slab too. Otherwise, just seal it with a vapor-retardent masonry sealer and it'll limit the wicking. No matter what you'll still need some mechanical dehumidifcation to keep boxes on the floor from getting moldy, but it'll be a lot better with an insulated, sealed slab. Storing goods on an uninsulated slab has a mold hazard in summer even if it's moisture sealed from groundwater. Depending on your deep subsoil temps the slab insulation may have little or no economic payoff or some, but it's relatively cheap insurance on the musty-stink factor, when combined with a foam-insulated & sealed foundation wall.
Do check for high-tide/flood evidence when you demo the studwall. If the place floods even once a decade or even longer, you'll want to know about it ahead of time.
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cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4327
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| 07 Sep 2012 04:13 AM |
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Posted By Dana1 on 31 Aug 2012 01:42 PM
I'll be looking for it- thanks for the heads-up! (Mirrored stainless would probably look like an alien invasion in Sparta though!  )
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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B_Edwards
New Member
Posts:37
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| 18 Oct 2012 11:45 AM |
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Ok so we have started demolition of decayed wood, drywall in the basement. Main level is in pretty good shape. Third level floor carries the roof system (flat sloped)and is causing the floor to sag in different areas as there is no support underneath. If the roof system was self supporting there wouldnt be any problem . I had decided to do a truss roof to do away with the flat roof and to put the mechanical for the upper floor but have been told the building is in a fire district that wont allow wood trusses. Do any of you have any ideas that would work and not cost a fortune? I have a few ideas but thought you guys might have better. If trusses of some kind can be used would you spray it and seal the attic space or no? Again I appreciate any help. |
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jonr
Senior Member
Posts:5341
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| 18 Oct 2012 02:49 PM |
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Perhaps steel trusses. I wouldn't seal the attic in your climate. |
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Dana1
Senior Member
Posts:6991
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| 19 Oct 2012 01:49 PM |
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Posted By jonr on 18 Oct 2012 02:49 PM
Perhaps steel trusses. I wouldn't seal the attic in your climate.
With the mechanicals in the attic space you'd definitely want to seal the attic. And with the high thermal conductivity of steel trusses insulating at the floor wouldn't be so great either, depending on the actual truss design. Steel trusses and half or all of the insulation as EPS above the roof deck might make some economic sense, but it won't be super-cheap. |
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B_Edwards
New Member
Posts:37
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| 22 Oct 2012 02:11 PM |
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What about a metal sip roof? The weight would be distributed evenly to outside walls and would that be considered fire-proof? kill two birds maybe three? |
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jonr
Senior Member
Posts:5341
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| 22 Oct 2012 06:57 PM |
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There are truss designs that give you room for mechanicals and don't require much expensive insulation or heating the entire attic. |
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cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4327
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| 22 Oct 2012 09:20 PM |
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Posted By B_Edwards on 01 Sep 2012 10:51 AM
I've been looking for pictures of renovated store fronts and can't seem to find any that will help me decide which way to go. I see so many things around here done in such a sloppy/cheap way . Don't get me wrong I like cheap but not to the point that it costs you more.
My goals with this building are ,,,
Apartment top floor ,,gut and remodel, new cabinets , bathroom and decide whether to insulated/frame inside or outside with plastered walls inside.
There is a chase from basement to top floor so plumbing lines are eqsily ran.
Middle floor ceiling has fiber squares not sure what's it called,, celitex? Electrical will be easy to rerun through floor/ceiling joists.
Basement,, whew the musty smell smothers me when I go down there. Will rip out all framed walls/drywall and spray down with a clorox mixture o try and kill and fungus.
As support post are mirrored on second floor will replace those posts (basement posts) and it should level 2nd and 3rd floors at the same time. Not a huge amount of weight as there are several posts (untreated). Some probably just have rot at the bottom.
Basement flooor seems to be ok as many I've seen from this era have floors that are dissolving , probably from wrong mix.
I haven't decided to dig exterior basement wall and waterproof or not . I may just pave or concrete after the slope is correct and use a dehumidifier . Lots of decisions to make and unfortunatley not a lot of experience.
I don't know if it's this way everywhere but seems none of the contractors in my area will "say I don't know" . They just make a damn mess and you pay for it. Where is Mike Holmes when you need him?
You could use SIP walls and roof, this block wall was clad with 6" SIP as siding, but is available in 2" thick  Panels are "blind" clipped to wall. |
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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B_Edwards
New Member
Posts:37
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| 24 Oct 2012 07:27 PM |
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Got the word today that I can't use wood trusses. I have spoken with three companies that do metal trusses. One does heavy angle iron,, fewer trusses but weight not spread out enough. One does tubular trusses,,, TNT carports in Mt Airy NC. Im not sure about them as they haven't returned calls as they should. The last is in Raliegh NC ,Aegis I think it is. Very nice cold formed truss.
Can anyone give me contact info for a sips manufacturer that does metal skin? If I can use them I will put the mechanical over one bedroom and put a commercial type trunk line out for the heat and ac,,give it that loft look. Thanks again for any help. |
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Alton
Veteran Member
Posts:2164
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Roundeye
New Member
Posts:44
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| 01 Nov 2012 09:41 PM |
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Build your own steel trussed roof!
Find a carport company in your area that uses steel. They have those answers.
Heck, maybe even a ICF roof? It may require a bit of shoring but it's bullet proof. Snow and Sandy proof as well. |
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| I love any new challenges and ideas. Briing it! |
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B_Edwards
New Member
Posts:37
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| 04 Nov 2012 10:18 PM |
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Guys I found an interesting way to attach the foam for insulating and the stucco ,seems to be a great option. I'm sure some of you are familiar with the system but sadly looks like the investor has passed. I'd like to ask your thoughts and if there is a similar system?
http://www.sprayfoam.com/newsarchives/archivedetails.cfm?id=416 |
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B_Edwards
New Member
Posts:37
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| 04 Nov 2012 10:24 PM |
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The link may not work. Google ,, masterbond-sp |
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askthecontractor
New Member
Posts:3
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| 23 Dec 2012 11:39 AM |
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For the exterior walls it may be worth looking into using HardiePlank cement boards over a lathed and insulated wall.
As to your roof, I recommend using low-e closed-cell foil-faced aluminum insulation under a metal roof as it relects around 97% of radiant heat. |
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